ARCHIVE 100 Series 1" Body Lift

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Isn't 1/2" BL all you need to run 35's?

I'm going to say no, but take that with a grain of salt because I haven't tried it. I'm beating up the fender wells pretty good and I don't know if just a 1/2" would fix it. Obviously, it would reduce the rub, but I don't think it would eliminate it. The thought of needing to do the BL twice is what keeps me from trying it.

I'm at the point that I'm slowing way down when going over dips/humps to avoid the contact. I think Spresso tried the 1/2" a long time ago, but eventually had to go up to 1".
 
I'm going to say no, but take that with a grain of salt because I haven't tried it. I'm beating up the fender wells pretty good and I don't know if just a 1/2" would fix it. Obviously, it would reduce the rub, but I don't think it would eliminate it. The thought of needing to do the BL twice is what keeps me from trying it.

I'm at the point that I'm slowing way down when going over dips/humps to avoid the contact. I think Spresso tried the 1/2" a long time ago, but eventually had to go up to 1".

I run 35's and no body lift. When the front wheel is compressed on the bump stop I can hit the sheet metal. I did knock back the pinch weld, but I need to adjust the front bump stops. I'm not sure if its due to my fenders being all dented up, but the tire certainly hits.
 
anyone have upclose pics of what the body gap looks like with respect to an ARB/ BIOR bumper or maybe even a stock bumper? Apounder's bumper is a one off so i can't really get the proper reference i want.
 
3D FJ said:
anyone have upclose pics of what the body gap looks like with respect to an ARB/ BIOR bumper or maybe even a stock bumper? Apounder's bumper is a one off so i can't really get the proper reference i want.

Not super close-up, but it is what I have on my phone. I have the BIOR bumper.

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I haven't had time to install my 1" BL yet but will have it done very soon; everything is prepped and ready to go just need another person to help and we should have it knocked out in short order. I will post install pics as well.

There are lots of other body lift threads on here and even more threads out there about running 35" tires. I would recommend reading over some of these threads and drawing your own conclusions. I will say I've been running 35's for over three years (daily driving and plenty of off-road trail trips) with no real problems. I did my homework prior to attempting to run 35's and steadily added the most important mods needed to step up to a 35" class tire... Depending on your setup you will likely have very slight rubbing in some cases but it's certainly bearable; the additional 1" BL should help or completely eliminate the slight rubbage...

The most important upgrades I did prior to mounting 35's (315/75/16 BFG KM2 MT's; carefully chosen 35" class tire as well) were - Diff Drop!, new OME rear lift coils (currently run 3" OME 863's; initially ran 2" OME 865's with 1" spacers until heavier BIO HC rear bumper was installed), TBars adjusted to 2.75" lift up front (installed new heavier Ironman Tbars after installing new BIO front bumper) but I ran the stock tbars until front bumper was installed for awhile, all new Ironman shocks installed with initial lift... I also slightly adjusted the turn stops up front and that's it... I'm sure others have different opinions but this setup has worked out great for me... **(edit - also get an alignment after lifting!!!)**

Maybe I'll go install the BL kit tonight; if anyone in SE VA is bored and wants to help PM me!!! hahaha!
 
That gap looks like hell, I would have to do something. Too bad the body lift doesn't come with a kit to raise the bumpers 1" as well.
 
That gap looks like hell, I would have to do something. Too bad the body lift doesn't come with a kit to raise the bumpers 1" as well.

On the Ironman there is both pitch and height adjustment. Not enough to cover 1", although you could slot it to cheat some more space. My guess is that slotting would work on ARB and TJM as well, but not on BIOR or Slee.
 
It's not a bracket issue. Most aftermarket bumpers would require major surgery to return the gap to stock. Cutting and rewelding while adding material. Slee, BIOR, ARB, Ironman all would be similar. I've studied my Slee bumpers extensively and there is no way to do it easily.
 
It's not a bracket issue. Most aftermarket bumpers would require major surgery to return the gap to stock. Cutting and rewelding while adding material. Slee, BIOR, ARB, Ironman all would be similar. I've studied my Slee bumpers extensively and there is no way to do it easily.

Agreed. I have thought about it, and looked at the ARB mounting system. It's doable, but would be a pain. I can deal with a small gap, but not 1"+.
 
i think i can deal with the gap if i knew of a type of rubber moulding/door seal that i could place there.
 
The cool thing is you can see the Toyota stamp that most people don't know is there. ;)

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Agreed. I have thought about it, and looked at the ARB mounting system. It's doable, but would be a pain. I can deal with a small gap, but not 1"+.

Add lights in the gap...you can pay me later for this huge money making idea...;)
 
Yeah, I was thinking about it today, and I would probably end up adding some steel to the bumper to make up the gap- weld it on, then have the thing powder coated (ARB).

It's not a bracket issue. Most aftermarket bumpers would require major surgery to return the gap to stock. Cutting and rewelding while adding material. Slee, BIOR, ARB, Ironman all would be similar. I've studied my Slee bumpers extensively and there is no way to do it easily.
 
The gap wouldn't be as noticeable if you masked and painted the gap black like Yuji did on his. Not perfect, but better.
 
or you could go 1/2", minimal front/rear rub under full compression(high speed dips, not cliffs like Harris enjoys, those ruin your frame). Although that's with a 285/75/18 Toyo MT. I specifically tucked my ARB up to the body when mounting it so I could then just add the BL and it'd be perfect.

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Not super close-up, but it is what I have on my phone. I have the BIOR bumper.

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Your Cruiser has balls - big ones! Love it man.

No road, no problem.
 
That gap looks like hell, I would have to do something. Too bad the body lift doesn't come with a kit to raise the bumpers 1" as well.

On the Ironman there is both pitch and height adjustment. Not enough to cover 1", although you could slot it to cheat some more space. My guess is that slotting would work on ARB and TJM as well, but not on BIOR or Slee.

I agree with the above which is why I'm looking for a 1/2" kit. No way would I be happy with unsightly gaps, especially with stock tuperwear bumpers. I figure I can cover 1/2" enough by slotting the stock mounts of the bumpers.

I'm also assuming that the transfer case lever will drop down by 1/2" or 1" depending on the body lift?

For my needs, less is more sometimes when modifying, so I can keep the car more balanced for everything it has to do for the family.
 
Transfer case shifter isn't an issue either way. :cheers:

I agree with the above which is why I'm looking for a 1/2" kit. No way would I be happy with unsightly gaps, especially with stock tuperwear bumpers. I figure I can cover 1/2" enough by slotting the stock mounts of the bumpers.

I'm also assuming that the transfer case lever will drop down by 1/2" or 1" depending on the body lift?

For my needs, less is more sometimes when modifying, so I can keep the car more balanced for everything it has to do for the family.
 

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