The OP says he used Whiteline but didn't give a part number and I haven't found it anywhere else. Only for the 98-02. I may have to go with Super Pro.
04+ Steering Rack Bushing Replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Oakleyguy
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- Thread starter
- #22
A bit late, but I found the original order in my email.
I used the Whiteline W13208 bushings.
W13208 - Steering - rack and pinion mount bushing
Power steering, aggressive wheel alignment geometry, wider wheels and lower profile tyres have all put radically increased loadings on the steering systems of modern cars. Add to that engine bat contaminants such as oil leaks that also help to degrade the performance of steering rack mount...
I'll update the original post.
It's been almost 5 years since u changed it, how is it by now ? Did it last ?
- Thread starter
- #24
Still going strong! No play in the rack and the bushings seem to be holding up well.
thanks man. I have a little bit of play but I guess it's time for a change.
Just installed the SuperPro bushings SPF2987K a couple of days ago. This was my first time doing this job and I'll add some learnings, notes, and one challenge I had some trouble with.
First- thanks to the OP for writing up the how to and others for contributing posts. Having a mental picture going into this project from previous installs helps a lot.
Prep:
Bushing Removal notes:
Install Notes:
All in I had this done in about 4 hrs. My test drive revealed that my steering wheel was cocked to the right. (Hmmm wasn't that way to start with). Clue: I definitely did NOT lock the steering wheel in place before starting the job. I moved the steering rack around a lot as I worked different angles to remove and install the bushes, including moving the TRE side to side (mistake). I think this is what threw my steering wheel off center, and required a trip to alignment shop to re-center my steering wheel. Be sure to lock steering wheel before starting the job- it may save you a trip to the alignment shop.
Poly Bushes or factory type rubber bushes?? I ready a lot of negative comments on Poly bushes that I had dragged my feet doing this install. So far, I am really happy with the result. Steering response is firm and direct- huge improvement. I dont notice much if any added road feedback through the steering wheel- yes a little but its subtle. At 202k miles the steering feels new. Still on original Outer TRE and Inner TRE.
First- thanks to the OP for writing up the how to and others for contributing posts. Having a mental picture going into this project from previous installs helps a lot.
Prep:
- ** ! Locking steering wheel in place before you get started may save you a trip to the alignment shop- more on that later.
- Placing on stands, and removing front wheels gives some added room to work.
- Unbolt the high pressure line mounting "stays" that fix the lines to the steering rack (12mm bolts). This helps get you a little more working room on the topside bushings.
- I think tackling the easy side (PS) first helps refine your skills for the challenging side (DS). Bottom bush first then top.
- Having a good selection of tools on hand helps speed the process up: sharp cold chisels and an air chisel, 19mm combo wrench, 19mm socket, 12mm socket.
Bushing Removal notes:
- With the steering rack bolts undone, you can move, tilt the steering rack to suit your work position to get a better angle on the bushings. This is why you probably want the steering wheel locked. You can place some small blocks under or behind the rack to keep it in position from moving while you chisel.
- Starting with the lower bushing first, using a hammer and small sharp cold chisel will help you to get under the edges of the bushing sleeves; you want to lift the edge enough to the get the tip of the air chisel under to work up the flange, this way you'll do less damage to the top of the steering rack mount. The steering rack body metal is soft and the air chisel will make some damage quickly if you aren't paying attention. If you carefully work around the edges of the sleeve with the air chisel, the bushing and sleeve will slowly start to come out of the steering rack. Alternating sides and positions helps to work it out- but dont expect it to come right out- you'll have to work it a little bit. I dont think there's any need to try and gut the rubber portion out first if you've got an air chisel.
- Once you have the bottom out, you can work the top bushing from outside and inside (if you're very careful) its real easy to gouge the inside surface with the chisel-so use caution and be sure to use emery cloth to smooth any burrs you create during the process.
Install Notes:
- PS- after lubing the bushes, insert the bushes first (flat side facing forward) then start the insert/sleeve, from the top. I used a large C clamp on the PS to pull down the sleeve into the bushing (unfortunately won't fit on the DS). That was the easiest part of the whole job.
- The DS - not so easy. This is where I could learn some Pro tips from others installs. The DS bush took me over an hour of fiddling around to try and figure out a process to get the inner sleeve pressed in. There isn't enough room from top or bottom install the bushes first and then the sleeve. The oil filter cooler is in the way of everything- just makes the job 2x more frustrating. I tried about every angle and the solution that worked for me was to mount the lower bushing in place, then insert the sleeve partially into the top bush, then start the top bush into the mount. This allows enough clearance at the oil cooler to then work the sleeve further into the top of the mount clearing the oil cooler. This is the challenging part to do because the sleeve ( and bushing is greasy) and also expands the bushing making really tough to get it to fit into the mount. You have get the right placement for it to work. This is what took me the most time.
- I used large adjustable plier to get the top bushing started into the mount, and then a flat piece of stock over the top of the sleeve and pulled down with both hands to get it to slide into the bush far enough to get a nut and washer on top and the mounting bolt to bring it the rest of the way. Not a skillful method but one that worked.
- If anyone has a better technique for the DS bushing install- please chime in.
- Tightening mounting bolts 89ft lbs. Torquing from bolt and not nut since its really hard to get torque wrench on the top nut. Not sure if it makes a difference to tighten rack with wheels off the ground or wheels on ground- I have heard both ways- similar theory to tightening shock mounts. No mention in FSM so does it matter? FWIW I tightened wheels off-ground.
All in I had this done in about 4 hrs. My test drive revealed that my steering wheel was cocked to the right. (Hmmm wasn't that way to start with). Clue: I definitely did NOT lock the steering wheel in place before starting the job. I moved the steering rack around a lot as I worked different angles to remove and install the bushes, including moving the TRE side to side (mistake). I think this is what threw my steering wheel off center, and required a trip to alignment shop to re-center my steering wheel. Be sure to lock steering wheel before starting the job- it may save you a trip to the alignment shop.
Poly Bushes or factory type rubber bushes?? I ready a lot of negative comments on Poly bushes that I had dragged my feet doing this install. So far, I am really happy with the result. Steering response is firm and direct- huge improvement. I dont notice much if any added road feedback through the steering wheel- yes a little but its subtle. At 202k miles the steering feels new. Still on original Outer TRE and Inner TRE.
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Will get a cold chisel later to get this metal sleeve out.
Wish I didn’t sell my air compressor when we moved
Finally:
Some notes:
• oil filter had to go to get some room to remove old oem bushings
• Pry bar was a huge help more of a requirement to move up and down forward and back the steering rack
• Cold chisel worked like a dream
• this job can certainly be done by one man
• 4Lb hammer made the chiseling a lot easier
• did not take off the front tires anymore, just lifted the truck up on jack stands to create additional room for work and to clear the tires from the ground to adjust and more the steering rack
• total labor time for me was about 6 hrs I took my time no rush
old bush kit:
Big thanks to this thread to those who contributed with some detailed descriptions and photos made the task a lot easier.
Cheers
Some notes:
• oil filter had to go to get some room to remove old oem bushings
• Pry bar was a huge help more of a requirement to move up and down forward and back the steering rack
• Cold chisel worked like a dream
• this job can certainly be done by one man
• 4Lb hammer made the chiseling a lot easier
• did not take off the front tires anymore, just lifted the truck up on jack stands to create additional room for work and to clear the tires from the ground to adjust and more the steering rack
• total labor time for me was about 6 hrs I took my time no rush
old bush kit:
Big thanks to this thread to those who contributed with some detailed descriptions and photos made the task a lot easier.
Cheers
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Keeping the thread going here with my experience.
Used Nolathane bushings, supposedly sister company to whiteline? Not sure though, they were about 26 dollars.
Nolathane P# REV1900042
Every tip mentioned thus far is golden, so thanks everyone. Just wanted to add that for me I did this without an air hammer as I didn’t trust myself to jackhammer the rack to oblivion. I used a wide assortment of cold chisels(get ones that are long, ie 14 inch), pry bars, and a finely filed screw driver.
Notes:
- I found it advantageous to remove the rubber bushing before chiseling out the pressed sleeve. Two reasons here. First is that on the DS I didn’t have enough room between the inferior side of the steering rack and the superior side of the frame to leverage out the whole bushing assembly for both bottom and top. Mine were rusted in there pretty good so I ended up having to chisel the inside part of the metal sleeve and then hammering the chisel in a motion that forced the sleeve out (ie hitting distal end of chisel upward with leverage towards engine bay to expel bottom sleeve downward out of rack). That is the second reason Id say remove the rubber bushing first, is because in doing that I was able to apply force against the remaining rubber remnants on the inside part of the sleeve, so when I was able to remove it from the rack, I did not gouge any surface of the rack mount.
- I am lucky enough to have a friend who is an engineer for Toyota and I asked him for tips, I’m sure you all know this but I’m gonna write it anyway as I didn’t know. When the OEM bushings are pressed in, the sleeves flanges flatten against the steering rack mount (and for me ended up having some rust there). So raising those flanges was key to being able to punch or pull the sleeve out. Therefore once the rubber bushing was out, I slowly leveled up the flanges starting with filed screw driver, then pry bar, then chisel (small to large). Once’s flanges were raised then I took a blunt cold chisel and then expelled the sleeve from the inside by either hitting up (for the top bushing) or expelling down (as written above).
-PB Blaster was my friend. Soak the sleeve. I literally drowned the sleeves in it once I removed the first one and saw some rust.
-install: previous posts were awesome: PS piece of cake. DS 1) lower bushing 2) insert metal inner sleeve 3) top bushing 4) C clamp or other to get it all pressed together.
Emery tape is a must to clean surfaces of rust or any nicks. Really glad I was able to get this done. Thanks everyone, hope I made sense let me know if I didn’t and I’ll explain.
Used Nolathane bushings, supposedly sister company to whiteline? Not sure though, they were about 26 dollars.
Nolathane P# REV1900042
Every tip mentioned thus far is golden, so thanks everyone. Just wanted to add that for me I did this without an air hammer as I didn’t trust myself to jackhammer the rack to oblivion. I used a wide assortment of cold chisels(get ones that are long, ie 14 inch), pry bars, and a finely filed screw driver.
Notes:
- I found it advantageous to remove the rubber bushing before chiseling out the pressed sleeve. Two reasons here. First is that on the DS I didn’t have enough room between the inferior side of the steering rack and the superior side of the frame to leverage out the whole bushing assembly for both bottom and top. Mine were rusted in there pretty good so I ended up having to chisel the inside part of the metal sleeve and then hammering the chisel in a motion that forced the sleeve out (ie hitting distal end of chisel upward with leverage towards engine bay to expel bottom sleeve downward out of rack). That is the second reason Id say remove the rubber bushing first, is because in doing that I was able to apply force against the remaining rubber remnants on the inside part of the sleeve, so when I was able to remove it from the rack, I did not gouge any surface of the rack mount.
- I am lucky enough to have a friend who is an engineer for Toyota and I asked him for tips, I’m sure you all know this but I’m gonna write it anyway as I didn’t know. When the OEM bushings are pressed in, the sleeves flanges flatten against the steering rack mount (and for me ended up having some rust there). So raising those flanges was key to being able to punch or pull the sleeve out. Therefore once the rubber bushing was out, I slowly leveled up the flanges starting with filed screw driver, then pry bar, then chisel (small to large). Once’s flanges were raised then I took a blunt cold chisel and then expelled the sleeve from the inside by either hitting up (for the top bushing) or expelling down (as written above).
-PB Blaster was my friend. Soak the sleeve. I literally drowned the sleeves in it once I removed the first one and saw some rust.
-install: previous posts were awesome: PS piece of cake. DS 1) lower bushing 2) insert metal inner sleeve 3) top bushing 4) C clamp or other to get it all pressed together.
Emery tape is a must to clean surfaces of rust or any nicks. Really glad I was able to get this done. Thanks everyone, hope I made sense let me know if I didn’t and I’ll explain.
- Thread starter
- #32
Glad to hear it!
Good work. Note that Slee carries rubber rack bushings for the 2006 model lc and whatever other years are same design.
Just did this. I'll add that it improved my steering accuracy tremendously! And, It was not as hard as I thought it might be as I have no rust.
But I wouldn't want to do this with out an air hammer. I got the bottoms started with the chisel then hit them with the air hammer and out they came. Then did pretty much the same for the tops.
But I wouldn't want to do this with out an air hammer. I got the bottoms started with the chisel then hit them with the air hammer and out they came. Then did pretty much the same for the tops.
Wow, you guys are all awesome. Tried this job tonight and the flange on the PS lower tore off when I was working it. So I had to hammer and air chisel the mangled inner press-fit out the top, expelling both the upper and lower flanges through the top hole at the same time.
Had that happened on the DS, I'm not sure what I'd do, have to pull the rack probably.
So I'm going to roll with one poly and one rubber bushing. I can see it already made a huge difference. I'm on the stock 18-year old rack w/ 160k miles, if the bushings go again, I'll replace the entire rack and do the poly upgrade on the bench first.
Why is there hate for the poly bushes? The OEM bushings don't look very good, as the other poster pointed out with the rubber bonded on just two sides. The poly w/sleeve seems a better design to me.
Had that happened on the DS, I'm not sure what I'd do, have to pull the rack probably.
So I'm going to roll with one poly and one rubber bushing. I can see it already made a huge difference. I'm on the stock 18-year old rack w/ 160k miles, if the bushings go again, I'll replace the entire rack and do the poly upgrade on the bench first.
Why is there hate for the poly bushes? The OEM bushings don't look very good, as the other poster pointed out with the rubber bonded on just two sides. The poly w/sleeve seems a better design to me.
Word of advice... make sure the long bolts don’t have any grease on them... and maybe run some threadlock on the nuts too.
Both my steering rack bolts came free after many trips out, and final moment was in Death Valley after many miles of washboard and fun canyon runs (Titus Canyon)
luckily the driver side nut got stuck under the oil filter housing, and the passenger side nut fell on the skid plate when I lowered the skids to inspect. Both long bolts slid down but didn’t fall out because of the skid plate too.
Tightened everything back up at campsite, but feels like a dodged a big one there... hope it never happens to you guys.
Both my steering rack bolts came free after many trips out, and final moment was in Death Valley after many miles of washboard and fun canyon runs (Titus Canyon)
luckily the driver side nut got stuck under the oil filter housing, and the passenger side nut fell on the skid plate when I lowered the skids to inspect. Both long bolts slid down but didn’t fall out because of the skid plate too.
Tightened everything back up at campsite, but feels like a dodged a big one there... hope it never happens to you guys.
I know this is an old thread, but I have one question on install. My Nolathane kit came with 4 large washers. I put 1 on top and 1 on bottom (between bushing and frame). rack is moving still. Should I remove bottom washer and let the bushing rest against the frame for better grip?
nevermind. I see washers on first page pics.
I just installed SuperPro bushings on my 2003. That was terrible!!! All of the guidance within this thread was helpful. The need for various chisels, screw drivers, hammers, etc. Got a good workout (abs, neck muscles, arms, back). Probably took me 6 hours total across two days. A few extra pointers
- plan to remove the oil cooler housing. Just remove the filter and spin off the center bolt (30mm) and buy a new oil seal ring (90301-67004) ahead of time. Be sure to remove the two coolant lines that go to it, but pinch the hoses or coolant will go everywhere!!!
- option to get the upper sleeves out...got an idea to use a socket to push it out. 7/8 socket fits perfect...two hits and it popped out (afyer an hour and battling)
Installing the bushings went fast... no additional comments.
Lately, I replaced the inner ball joints while I was in there...I have a leaky rack!!! Agh. At 280k...just going to drive it for now. Don't want to deal with a rack replacement at this time...my truck is getting old
Take care all!!
DT
- plan to remove the oil cooler housing. Just remove the filter and spin off the center bolt (30mm) and buy a new oil seal ring (90301-67004) ahead of time. Be sure to remove the two coolant lines that go to it, but pinch the hoses or coolant will go everywhere!!!
- option to get the upper sleeves out...got an idea to use a socket to push it out. 7/8 socket fits perfect...two hits and it popped out (afyer an hour and battling)
Installing the bushings went fast... no additional comments.
Lately, I replaced the inner ball joints while I was in there...I have a leaky rack!!! Agh. At 280k...just going to drive it for now. Don't want to deal with a rack replacement at this time...my truck is getting old
Take care all!!
DT
Good on you man. Good documentation. Just run some Lucas Oil steering rack stop-leak until you can replace the thing. Renew steering rack in a bottle haha.I just installed SuperPro bushings on my 2003. That was terrible!!! All of the guidance within this thread was helpful. The need for various chisels, screw drivers, hammers, etc. Got a good workout (abs, neck muscles, arms, back). Probably took me 6 hours total across two days. A few extra pointers
- plan to remove the oil cooler housing. Just remove the filter and spin off the center bolt (30mm) and buy a new oil seal ring (90301-67004) ahead of time. Be sure to remove the two coolant lines that go to it, but pinch the hoses or coolant will go everywhere!!!
- option to get the upper sleeves out...got an idea to use a socket to push it out. 7/8 socket fits perfect...two hits and it popped out (afyer an hour and battling)
Installing the bushings went fast... no additional comments.
Lately, I replaced the inner ball joints while I was in there...I have a leaky rack!!! Agh. At 280k...just going to drive it for now. Don't want to deal with a rack replacement at this time...my truck is getting old
Take care all!!
DT
