Builds 02/75 fj40 restoration

[LSUfj]

Pulled the gauge cluster apart to powder coat the bezel. Also painted the faded instrument needles. I used Testors flourescent orange, which was a near perfect match.

 

[LSUfj]

I need some help finding the stock location for my voltage regulator should be mounted? When I got it, an aftermarket regulator was on the firewall and was using aftermarket wires. While refurbishing the harness, I found the OEM wires to be on the driver side, near the windshield washer pump connector. Is it supposed to be mounted on the driver side fender?

 

[John McVicker]

No pictures but my 2-'75 voltage regulator is on the d/s firewall (not the fender). I 'think' it's mounted with 2 bolts, look for 2 holes near the brake booster. (Going on memory...but that's close)

 

[LSUfj]

Thanks. Found the matching holes on the firewall, under the curved part of the firewall “rib”, or whatever you would call it.

 

[LSUfj]

Reassembled the steering column with a new OEM bearing and seal.

 

[SMG]

Just read through your whole thread. Amazing bodywork and paint. Wish I had the room and time to paint mine this nice. Keep up the good work! Looks like you can see the finish line.

 

[heavytlc]

Really like your build. I am particularly partial to your 40 because I was born February of 1975. I have always wanted a 2/75 Fj40. You cruiser makes me happy!

 

[LSUfj]

Got the pedal bracket and steering column installed. Also test fit my restored instrument cluster.

Had a little help too.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

I love that shop dog!!!

And your little helper!! I have two little helpers myself!

The build looks good. I can't want to get mine back on the road!!!

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

update

I finally got everything off, including the tub. Pulling stuff off is fun, and inexpensive. Now it gets expensive..... I will probably start with the frame and then move on to some sheet metal replacement. Everything looks to be in great shape except for the drivers floor pan over to the edge of the gas tank depression. This rust seems odd to me. I dont have the typical rot at the sill and on the rockers, floor pans only. Anyway, any bad sheetmetal will be replaced with new. Not sure where I will purchase from yet.

Question: I thought about using por15 on the frame, but recently heard that it was very thick and not a good choice for a factory finish type of restoration. I might just use it on the axles and use something a little thinner on the frame. Maybe a rust protective coating then a coat of eastwood chassis black. Thoughts?
View attachment 391947View attachment 391948

I had my frame sandblasted and painted with two coats of PPG Durethane. It is kind of thick, but I am not going for a "factory look". I wanted something that was strong and durable.

I am about to paint my rear diff with KBS frame coater. It looks like it goes on thin and is hard as nails. Check out my build thread in the sig below in the next couple days for a review. I am thinking that maybe I should have done the frame with this myself. It looks like good stuff!! Watch a couple YouTube vids and let me know your thoughts.

How did you like the Eastwood chassis black? Would you recommend it?

Keep up the good work!!!!

 

[LSUfj]

Hard to tell how well the Eastwood stuff will hold up since it’s not been on the road, but it’s held up pretty good through all the moves and various other treatment over the years. I’m certain there are better products, but it was relatively cheap and easy to apply. I’d recommend it as a good budget conscious product.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Hard to tell how well the Eastwood stuff will hold up since it’s not been on the road, but it’s held up pretty good through all the moves and various other treatment over the years. I’m certain there are better products, but it was relatively cheap and easy to apply. I’d recommend it as a good budget conscious product.

Awesome!

I did my rear end today with KBS and so far so good. This stuff takes forever to dry

 

[LSUfj]

That looks great. Is it that glossy or still wet? I went with a satin finish on the frame and axles.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

That looks great. Is it that glossy or still wet? I went with a satin finish on the frame and axles.

It is still wet in the pic, but I got glossy. I just checked it and it is almost dry and still very glossy

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

It dried by the next morning and is rock solid. I would recommend it!

 

[LSUfj]

Installed my radiator support. I don’t think I am going to be able to use the stock 2f shroud. The 3f water pump sets the fan about an inch farther toward the driver side. It’s also a hair lower, but not as low as I thought it would be. I may pick up a shroud for a 3fe to see if it will work.

 

[LSUfj]

Still working on wiring. I got a new rear harness from Coolerman, thanks Mark!

Also went ahead and installed a new water pump on the 3F. Seems that anything from the head gasket down is the same as a 3FE, so parts aren’t too hard to find. Blasted and painted the thermostat housing as well.

 

[tstepp920]

I found a company that does cad plating here in fort worth, Billmark Co. I would like to get a list of parts that I should bring to get plated. Heres what I am coming up with:

-any bolts that werent broken
-headlight cups or whatever you call them
-brake and fuel line brackets/clamps
-hose clamps
-engine lifting hooks
-gas pedal assy
-tail light housings
-rear side marker housings.
-coil braket
-anything else that looks like it was plated
-whatever you guys come up with....????????????????

Were the hard heater lines plated?

Did anyone ever give you a master list a items to be plated?

 

[tstepp920]

Very nice work. Just went through the entire build. Following

 

[ginmtb]

Great work and your perseverance is amazing! Read the entire thread can’t believe it started in 2009! I have a 1/75 that someday I will get working on... just need the space. Subscribed!