Search didn't turn up much at all.. I just bought a new electric oil gauge to replace the stock one that might be on the fritz, anyway, the threads on the sending unit don't wanna fit. They seem just a TAD to big. Any idea what the exact thread size is on the stock sending unit so I can buy the proper gauge, or an adapter or something... They are so close its not even funny, i'm wondering if one is mertric and the other is imperial... grrr!
Oil sending unit threads (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JamesM
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- Thread starter
- #3
Diameter?
- Thread starter
- #5
... i need to buy a set anyway. Good call.
I'll come back and post the measurements when I figure it out, hopefully I can save someone else some trouble.
I'll come back and post the measurements when I figure it out, hopefully I can save someone else some trouble.
Dude....
Ever hear of Google?
Found this out there in about two minutes....
and just ran into this....
Use a letter R bit (.3390") for 1/8"-27 N P T F (National Pipe Thread Fuel)
According to Irwin they state to use a letter Q bit, which is .3320
Should be more than enough info to make you dangerous.....
FWIW-
I have ran a 1/8"-27 tap into a 1/8"-28 BSP oil rail hole on the F engine, and threaded the brass adapter fitting for the mechanical oil tube right into the block...
A rag over the hole and a quick crank of the engine with the coil lead unhooked will purge any metal that may remain in the port.
Not telling you to do this....just letting you know what I have done.
Good luck!
Ever hear of Google?
Found this out there in about two minutes....
and just ran into this....
Use a letter R bit (.3390") for 1/8"-27 N P T F (National Pipe Thread Fuel)
According to Irwin they state to use a letter Q bit, which is .3320
Should be more than enough info to make you dangerous.....
FWIW-
I have ran a 1/8"-27 tap into a 1/8"-28 BSP oil rail hole on the F engine, and threaded the brass adapter fitting for the mechanical oil tube right into the block...
A rag over the hole and a quick crank of the engine with the coil lead unhooked will purge any metal that may remain in the port.
Not telling you to do this....just letting you know what I have done.
Good luck!
Mark W
Yep, it's true. I just don't care that much.
Along the lines of "I'm not saying to do this, but I have made it work..." With some patience you can get the NPT fitting to start in the BSP port. Once it does it will snug down and the brass threads will conform nicely to the iron ones Fits tight and secure with no leaks.
Mark...
Mark...
I installed an oil pressure gauge - found the same connection problem as you. Was able to buy an adaptor right off the shelf. Out of curiosity, would like to know your psi readings when you get the new guage installed. My rebuilt 2F in a FJ-40 with 20w-50 oil starts cold (never gets below 50 deg F here) at 74 psi @ low RPM. When hot it stays very upper 60 psi range driving down the road and idles arond 64 psi.
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- Thread starter
- #10
Just got my gauge all on and installed.. I just used a Die on the new sending unit and it worked great! 1/8th 27 NTP like poser said.
My oil pressure numbers are a little lower than your guys' though. I'm reading 40 - 45 at idle once its been running for a few minutes. is that too low?
also Its unrelated, but im noticing a weird almost metal on plastic, or wood kinda sound... Like if you ran a stick down a fence while walking or something. I can hear it mostly on the passenger side of the engine, I'm wondering if its the dizzy or something? any ideas? I'm hoping its far to quiet to be an internal engine noise like a bearing or something catastrophic... could it also just be a result of using 10W30 oil? It made my valves noisy again, and my oil pressure seem to drop.
My oil pressure numbers are a little lower than your guys' though. I'm reading 40 - 45 at idle once its been running for a few minutes. is that too low?
also Its unrelated, but im noticing a weird almost metal on plastic, or wood kinda sound... Like if you ran a stick down a fence while walking or something. I can hear it mostly on the passenger side of the engine, I'm wondering if its the dizzy or something? any ideas? I'm hoping its far to quiet to be an internal engine noise like a bearing or something catastrophic... could it also just be a result of using 10W30 oil? It made my valves noisy again, and my oil pressure seem to drop.
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- Thread starter
- #11
..now its reading as low as 22 psi at idle, and no higher than 40 psi at normal running temp @ 3000 rpm. wtf is going on here?
JamesM said:
I think I heard it quoted that you need 10psi for every 1000 rpm, so you are good.
Ed
EDIT: I would use 40wt oil in the summer. Betcha your noise goes away......mine did.
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
All the pipe threads on the 2F engine are BSPT and differ from NPT threads in that there is a 5 degree difference in the angle of the thread and 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 have an extra TPI. NPT 1/8 -27 vs 1/8-28, NPT 1/4-18 vs 1/4-19, 3/8-18 vs 3/8-19. It is not until you get to 1/2 pipe threads that both version have the same TPI (there is still that pesky variation in angle, which for the pressures we’re talking about is not an issue).JamesM said:
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bsevans said:
Are.....what? I have found a mix of NPT and "something else" The head is tapped for 1/2" NPT for the water jacket, sending unit, etc, the carb fuel inlet (at least on a '74 carb) is "something else", but a brass 1/8"NPT will work.
I've heard British Standard Pipe Thread, Whitworth(often called "Wentworth") and metric. That's why I ask what they all are.
Ed
EDIT" OK, you cross-posted. I get it. Nope, you edited.
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
Degnol said:Are.....what? I have found a mix of NPT and "something else" The head is tapped for 1/2" NPT for the water jacket, sending unit, etc, the carb fuel inlet (at least on a '74 carb) is "something else", but a brass 1/8"NPT will work.
I've heard British Standard Pipe Thread, Whitworth(often called "Wentworth") and metric. That's why I ask what they all are.
Ed
EDIT" OK, you cross-posted. I get it. Nope, you edited.
On a 78 from the factory they are all BSPT. I'm sure more than one 40 has been transformed during a valve job. Someone can correct me, but I and Desert Toyota are not aware of any SAE threads used on a 2F engine from the factory.
JamesM said:
Get that 10-30 junk out of there and run 15-40 or 20-50.....
When was the last time that you adjusted the valves?
The pushrods can bounce around if the valves are out of adjustment significantly and make that kind of noise...
Good luck!
-Steve
- Thread starter
- #18
Just did the valves about 4 weeks ago. Had them soundin real nice too! after adjusting them I made a 600+ km trip and they started making a little more noise, so perhaps one or more of the locknuts wasn't tightened down enough and backed itself off or something. I'll be swapping the oil as soon as it seems approriate, but since I'm not driving it right now it can stay... i've got bigger fish to fry than an oil change anyway... front pinion seal is leaking (about 90% the problem isn't the seal itself), need a new header, and i've gotta do a valve job again.
Its a good thing I love my truck, and love working on it even more!
thanks for the info though!
Its a good thing I love my truck, and love working on it even more!
thanks for the info though!
Mark W
Yep, it's true. I just don't care that much.
bsevans said:
The tall fitting used for the water temperature sender is NPT on the end that threads into the head. I use them commonly to fit the Toyota temp sender into Chevy V8s when I do conversions.
Mark...
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
If I understand you, you are talking about the temp sensor adapter that threads into the 1/2-14 BSPT port on the 2F head. It has been a while since I changed out a thermal sensor, so I could be mistaken about this, but I thought that the thermal sensor had straight threads and relied on a taper to seal against the adapter. I'll have to look at an old one tomorrow. I still say that the external threads on that adapter are BSPT regardless of whether or not the internal threads are NPT or straight with a taper seal. The only difference is the five degree variation in the angle of the thread on the ½-14 pipe ports on the head. It would be very easy to run an NPT adapter into one of the ½ pipe ports on the head. I own two 2F heads for the block with domed pistons and my thread gage say that all the pipe threads on both heads are BSPT. The pipe threads on the intake manifold are also BSPT. It is difficult to determine the difference when they both have the same TPI. If you take a thread gage to the 1/8 and 3/8 pipe ports on the intake manifold they gage out as BSPT as do the adapters that mate to them. I've got two intake manifolds for a 78 and they both gage as BSPT pipe threads. The two ports on the lower thermostat housing are BSPT as are the two thermostatically controlled vacuum switches (on a 78). If all of these ports had gauged out as NPT I really would not have gone to the expense to buy the tap and dies to chase these threads to their original condition as I did engine work. Having said this, I’m not telling anyone what to do. I'm just relaying what I've discovered on my 78 and the spare parts I've reconditioned. If individuals want to use an NPT adapter or sensor on what I'm confident is a BSPT pipe port, then go for it. The chances of developing a leak at the pressures we are talking about would be very minimal.Mark W said:
