Rust proofing ish.........

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L

Liam

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Feb 10, 2005
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So here is my question....

I have light surface rust underneath my 40 and i am not planning any huge rust retoration project....

I was thinking that i could take a rust wheel and clean it off, then spray it with a "rust converter" and then go over the top of it with another rust inhibiating paint....

does this sound like a solid idea?? If it does, what paint or undercoating should use once I have rust wheeled it and put the "rust converter" on?????
 
Sounds good to me. I am putting rust bullet on mine but I can not say I have a little rust on the frame. I have alot.
 
Although Rust bullet sounds likeyour best paint, a cheaper and easier product would be a can of Rustoleum hammered finish black spray paint. It's worked well for me, definitely much better than regular Rustoleum for inhibiting rust from returning.
 
89GASHOG said:
Although Rust bullet sounds likeyour best paint, a cheaper and easier product would be a can of Rustoleum hammered finish black spray paint. It's worked well for me, definitely much better than regular Rustoleum for inhibiting rust from returning.
Click to expand...

How would hammered be better than regular?
 
honestly, if you are going to do a quick non restoration type fix, just go down to home depot and get a bunch of cans of spraypaint, wire wheels, small hand wire brushes, tri sodium phosphate. You will probably need to find some type of rust converter that is spray on. Last time I looked all I found at HD was naval jelly but that would take you forever. Best bet is to find something in a spray can or liquid so you can put it into a spray bottle.

Sand / wire wheel, spray converter / let sit, wash with TSP / let dry / spray bomb.

by the way, nice name. Chicks dig us.

Noah
 
POR15 requires much more prep work, and from my husband's truck it is coming off the springs after about 2-3 years. On my cruiser, we used Rust Bullet and found it easy to use, and it gives a nice smooth finish.
 
tri sodium phosphate is basically a cleaner, prep before painting. I believe it used used before people paint houses. From what i have been told it will actually change the PH level of the metal and allow the paint to adhere better than without. This is something I just read so.....
I used TSP on my 40 and it worked great as a cleaner. Stuff is toxic though so make sure to wear gloves, glasses etc. The TSP is the last step because it will etch the treated metal and clean it completely before painting. Use it after the rust treatment as I don't know how paint will adhere to whatever you use to convert the rust. never used por or rustbullet. I used zerorust which I like alot.

Noah
 
Not sure what a 'rust wheel' is. I'm guessing wire wheel. I've have great luck using roloc discs. For this, maroon (medium) and brown (coarse) would be good. They get used with an angle die grinder or straight die grinder. Beats the flying pieces of wire from wire brush on an electric angle grinder.

POR and the necessary prep work has always worked for me.
 
por 15. Re-comstructs on a molecular level. I once saw a demonstration at a snow-cat seminar; that stuff is bomb proof.
 
rust bullet is easy to use. don't know how it will hold up though since I am putting it on my cruiser now. It seems to repeal water well though.

This is my favorite attack on the rust:

DSC02291.jpg
 
rustbullit


that stuff is tough and you just paint it on none of the hassle with that POR stuff...its easy to use but don't get it on you...stays on your nails for about a month..


I'm always worried though say you do a rust proofing-ish job...and get most of the rust off then paint over it...i feel eventually it will fade through and you'll have more rust so the route i'd take would be to cover it with some oil or ATF fluid... but thats just throwing out an idea..
 
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