Aussie Locker Clearances? (1 Viewer)

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PabloCruise

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I just took delivery of a third member set up with an Aussie.

The center gap is too big - ~0.18

I have a myriad of thrust washers for the side gears - is it considered too primative to stack two thrust wahsers to get the desired clearance for an Aussie?
 
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TJ- if you have time to wait, I would e-mail Bill Cole at http://www.offroadlockers.com/ He would be the best one to answer your question. He was very helpful when I was evaluating the aussie before I bought it.
 
Romer said:

That is what I thought - but the FAQ next to "User CP" does not find it? Yours shows up as an old post?

How did your clearances check out?

Did you have to go with new thrust washers?

I think if I go with the thickest set - 2.1 mm or 0.083 inch, that might work.

Or, if I can stack thrust washers from some side gears I have lying around...

I can call Derek tomorrow and see if he has a set.

Just seems like all the write-ups (yours, Woody's) blow off checking that clearance...
 
Aussie Locker Question

PabloCruise said:
That is what I thought - but the FAQ next to "User CP" does not find it? Yours shows up as an old post?

How did your clearances check out?

Did you have to go with new thrust washers?

I think if I go with the thickest set - 2.1 mm or 0.083 inch, that might work.

Or, if I can stack thrust washers from some side gears I have lying around...

I can call Derek tomorrow and see if he has a set.

Just seems like all the write-ups (yours, Woody's) blow off checking that clearance...


PM sent on use of stacked spacers. Let us know if you have other questions. And do not "blow off" checking and adhering to the spacing listed in the manual. The warranty of the Aussie Locker is partly based on your installing to those parameters and if you do not, it is very clear when looking at a damaged locker what the cause of the problem was. The correct spacings are not only needed for proper performance but for long term reliability.
 
My clearances were fine

I clicked the link in the FAQ and it came up for me.
 
Found this post and thought it was a cool trick...

JasonH said:
Pull the rear cover and measure the gap between the two halves. If you're like me and don't have any feeler gauges, use a couple of drill bits as go/no-go guages. 9/64 is .140 and 11/64 is .171.

Basically the 9/64 should fit and the 11/64 shouldn't.

From:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=47127&highlight=11/64
 
O-k, got her done - so here is more info about installing an Aussie Locker (compare to other auto lockers) in your Cruiser...

First, the components:
MVC-087F.JPG
 
hhhmmmm...never checked clearances in the forty diffs (which are now in the 60...and vica versa)...beat the hell out of them...no issues. guess i'm just lucky that way.
 
nuclearlemon said:
hhhmmmm...never checked clearances in the forty diffs (which are now in the 60...and vica versa)...beat the hell out of them...no issues. guess i'm just lucky that way.

I didnt check my clearences either but as well as it works and as quiet as it is I must have gotten it right...LOL

I used the thrust washers out of my 60 after inpspecting them. I had a few others on hand but used those and everything works fine.
 
didn't check mine on the lunchbox I installed about 7 years back....then, CM04, it started making a NASTY racket....dropped in new thrust washers from CDan ($20ish) and it's been fine ever since.

worth checking.
 
There are two clearances mentioned in the aussie install guide....1st one is the clearance between the end of the axle shaft cap and the center pin....I suppose that is for keeping the c-clips from falling out, so it should be tight. 2nd clearance is the gap between the two locker halves...
On mine, the 1st clearance is a touch wide, but the 2nd clearance is at .148" Seemed to work o.k., but it sure did ratchet a lot. (Diff out for new bearings at this moment...)
Cheers!
 
nuclearlemon said:
hhhmmmm...never checked clearances in the forty diffs (which are now in the 60...and vica versa)...beat the hell out of them...no issues. guess i'm just lucky that way.
me either!!bwahhhaaa.it breaks oh well.made it to moab and back so it will be fine.
 
Some pics of the side gears and the thick Toyota thrust washer (fattest ones they make)

Thick Toyota thrust washer p/n: 41361-60041 from http://www.ih8mud.com/techtrivia.php

Using this thrust washer allowed me to get the proper specified clearance
MVC-090F.JPG
MVC-091F.JPG
 
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Install your side gears.

Then slide drivers side axle in, install C clip, and pull axle out. Use some grease and then stick the DS cam gear and spacer in.

Now it starts getting a little trickier. You need to get the passenger side cam gear and spacer in. This is not a huge deal. But you need to set your pins in the cam gears with a little grease so they are ready for the rest of the install. Make sure to place the nipple out so it will seat the spring

Before I put in the springs and pins, I use the "old butter knife trick" to get the PS C clip in. I learned this trick from Rising Sun's Jeff Zepp. You use a little duct tape to tape the C clip to the knife. Line up the gap to reach in between cam gear and side gear. Then push the PS cam gear away from the side gear. Reach in with your knife, hook the C clip down, have a helper pull the PS axle out.

Then your pinion shaft (or cross pin) goes in to keep the spacers from falling out. Then the lock bolt (be careful not to over torque this little dude). Be careful when rotating the carrier assembly to get the cross pin in that you do not drop your C clips.

Getting the springs in took some patience for me! They will fit in the gap on the cam gear. I used a combination of dental pick, needle nose, and screw driver to get them in. Twice a compressed spring went flying and I was sure it was gone. It turned out they were in the diff housing - nice! Push them all the way against the pin and seat them all the way in the cam gear.
MVC-092F.JPG
MVC-093F.JPG
 

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