Drilling and tapping plug in head, oil passageway? (1 Viewer)

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Degnol

Degnol

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Since it is leaking and since I ignored all the suggestions to take care of it before the engine was back together:doh: .....Can someone who has done this chime in here?
Is the plug a solid piece?

Do you recall what size drill you used to remove it?

After tapping, what about turning the engine over enough to puke out a little oil and hopefully all the shavings created?

I did do a search and came up empty.


Thanks,

Ed
 
Ed, have not done this exactly but in similar circumstances have had success using thick sticky grease, drilling a little at a time, keep reapplying the grease and making a small tipped suction hose attached to your vacuum to keep the area as clean as possible. the grease in the tap will help trap the shavings. One fj40 near here has JB Weld in the hole with successful results for at least a year.

does anybody know why toyota made this hole?
 
jm599 said:
Ed, have not done this exactly but in similar circumstances have had success using thick sticky grease, drilling a little at a time, keep reapplying the grease and making a small tipped suction hose attached to your vacuum to keep the area as clean as possible. the grease in the tap will help trap the shavings. One fj40 near here has JB Weld in the hole with successful results for at least a year.

does anybody know why toyota made this hole?
Click to expand...



Thanks, I like the grease tip. The hole and resultant plug are necessary to get the oil from the passageway on the block over to the rocker journal to oil the rockers. There are a bunch of similar drillings and pluggings on carbs, too.

Thanks,

Ed
 
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Degnol said:
Since it is leaking and since I ignored all the suggestions to take care of it before the engine was back together:doh: .....Can someone who has done this chime in here?
Is the plug a solid piece?

Do you recall what size drill you used to remove it?

After tapping, what about turning the engine over enough to puke out a little oil and hopefully all the shavings created?

I did do a search and came up empty.


Thanks,

Ed
Click to expand...


if this is what i think it is(oil galley plug bewteen #5&#6 sparkplugs?), check the 60 section. there were just a few threads about ''this''.
 
Not too difficult, Ed, or troubling. The grease and your crank ideas should keep most or all of the dangerous stuff out of your engine. I'd probably do both. Just be sure that the engine can't start and there's no need to crank it for more than a couple of seconds. If you have a magnet small enough to enter the hole it can be another method to gain some reassurance.

Taps usually are marked for the drill size that is to be used with them. There are charts too and one is probably on the net somewhere. I don't have a link to one but maybe someone will jump in with one.

Use a sealant on the plug threads, and watch it for a while when you're done just to be sure it's not seeping.
 
hey y'all,

i'm in charlotte for the weekend, and my head is on my coffee table in nashville (insert joke here...)

last week, havin no real idea where this galley plug was located, i sort of looked the head over and couldn't really find it.

does anybody have a picture of it?
i'm pretty sure that i've taped it off now, since i sanded and primed the head last week, too. paint's comin next when i get back.


thanks y'all, just wonderin, and i won't get back to nashville for a couple of days to find it myself and satisfy this little question...


malphrus
 
and another unsolicited suggestion . . .

For metric drilling and tapping, it's really easy to figure out what size tap drill to use before tapping.

[Bolt size] - [thread pitch] = drill bit size

For instance, to tap for an M8 X 1.25,

8 - 1.25 = 6.75 drill bit size
 
Cool. Thanks all, good liks and info. Sure would have been easier on the engine stand;)

Ed
 
Hey! This is all still fresh in my mind!
I would pack that little hole with grease if I left it on the engine. I used a 5/16 drill and hogged it out maybe 3/8 deep. Then I tapped it with a 1/8 Pipe tap. I chose a pipe thread because the alignment issue is NIL. If you get a standard thread crooked, it will sacrifice strength, but a pipe tap is easy easy easy...
Besides, if it ever leaks again, I can always give the Thread a quick turn with the tap again to make it all like new.

Rock on...
 
2damslow said:
Hey! This is all still fresh in my mind!
I would pack that little hole with grease if I left it on the engine. I used a 5/16 drill and hogged it out maybe 3/8 deep. Then I tapped it with a 1/8 Pipe tap. I chose a pipe thread because the alignment issue is NIL. If you get a standard thread crooked, it will sacrifice strength, but a pipe tap is easy easy easy...
Besides, if it ever leaks again, I can always give the Thread a quick turn with the tap again to make it all like new.

Rock on...
Click to expand...

If there's room for the 1/8 NPT (pipe) tap it'd be a good idea to use it for the reason stated.

If you have sets of taps and dies, Ed, you probably have a pipe size or two. A hardware store will have pipe plugs.
 
honk said:
If there's room for the 1/8 NPT (pipe) tap it'd be a good idea to use it for the reason stated.

If you have sets of taps and dies, Ed, you probably have a pipe size or two. A hardware store will have pipe plugs.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I like the idea of using pipe thread. Problem is, I have a metric set and it has 1/8 BSP so the plug would likely cost the same as buying a 1/8NPT tap!

Mos'def will go with pipe, though. Glad I procrastinated.....heh.:D

Ed

Thanks 2Damn, great idea, and thanks Honk fer yer stamp of approval.
 
Got 'r' done

I did have to borrow a 90* attachment for my drill. Drilled a 1/16" pilot hole. The plug came out with the larger bit. Tapped it with a M8 x 1.25 and JB Welded a SS hex plug. Pipe looked too big. Used a magnet, cranking the engine and Q-tips to clean out the hole repeating several times. A little brake cleaner to remove oil and voila!

Thanks to all for your help.


Ed

EDIT: As I mentioned, I used a 1/16" pilot, followed by a 1/8" which effectively grabbed the plug and removed it. The M6 tap was too small so I went to M8.
The bit specified is a 5.2mm for that size tap, but I don't have any metric-marked bits. I had a metric caliper and found that 13/64" was the closest I had to 5.2mm. HTH for anyone doing this.

EDIT.....AGAIN: I checked the chart again and it actually specifies a 7.0mm, but the 13/64" was what I used. There must have been enough runout in the 90* attachment or my wobbly hand to woller it out because the tap, although a little snug, seemed to work just fine.

Just did not want to put out any more bad info than I have:doh:
DSC01068.JPG
DSC01067.JPG
 
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