Is this necessary- Skid plate foam pad?

re_guderian said:

I live here, so it gets driven all day, all year, this year it saw outside temps from 6 degrees to 119 degrees. The 2UZ is the first land cruiser engine where you don't have to worry about over heating. This includes slow-speed wheeling during the summer with the AC blasting. Both my 60 and 80 ran hot here in the summers and you had to mod them to accommodate (fan clutch mods, pusher fans, no AC). The stock temp gage has a massive flat spot, as it did on the 80 series. Temps fluctuate within an acceptable range, and the needle won't even move. I have a BT OBD II adapter and the Torque pro app. I stopped looking at temp data years ago. Stock radiator, no change on the 100's that I'm aware of. You're seriously over thinking this...

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First let me say thank you for your detailed response, it was just what I was looking for; off road and daily driving on black top in 119 deg. Yes I do over think things, but that’s what I’m paid for. Your input tells me over heating is not a problem when foam pack (Coolant Pack) is removed as Slee has also stated, which was my number one concern.

The name of this part: Coolant Pack may be a clue to its intended design or may just indicate were it goes. Others have suggested it is a: road grim barrier, possible to keep engine compartment cleaner and/or keep mud and debris away from harmonic balancer, belt & fan ect...

Note: Radiator not larger, but there was a change in 2003: Radiator fin pitch was changed for better cooling http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbieUZJ100.htm)

I’d not heard of: BT OBD II adapter and the Torque pro app, Googled it and wow I love that toy, thanks for mentioning it.

Thanks again re_guderian.

RR Skid Plate & Coolant Packing

Credible reasons Toyota engineers’ installed Coolant Packing, Toyota part # 88578-60100:

First: Coolant System aid as the name implies and many believe the primary purpose is to divert air to aid in cooling. We’ve had very creditable testimony; that the series 100 maintains within an acceptable temperature range with it removed in desert condition on & off road. But on the other end of this probable use; a very credible Toyota shop Foreman states: this type of device is generally and aid to the cooling system, and its need, may only be apparent at highway speeds with the vehicle under load (towing). Where as another local shop states: it is not needed and routinely removes when adding after market skid plate(s).

Second: Reduce road grim from entering the engine compartment. Maybe but this is probable a secondary benefit.

Third: A Vibration Damping device. This seems a stretch but comes from Toyota tech support: “Toyota designed this foam pad into the Land Cruiser to reduce vibration to increase reliability and longevity” This information was without confirmation of part number or documentation when tech was requested to produce.
Edit 10/8/13 Toyota response in wirting:"The purpose for the foam is to act as a vibration absorber which then prevents unwanted noise and metal fatigue, which can lead to cracking of the skid plate." & "Furthermore, our records do not indicate that the skid plate part has been updated or a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)."



Upon comparing the used coolant packing with the newly purchased one we see old soaking up water and new (warehouse aged) coolant packing does not:


Did the used coolant packing break down over time or was it always sponge like, I can’t say (EDITE 10/8/13: apparently breaks down over time, Toyota states no material change)


The new one appears to be close cell & water repellent but will it keep these properties over time, wil see. (EDIT 10/8/13 Doubtful.)


The series 200 use a two piece coolant packing, water repelling foam, black and three times the cost. This indicts Toyota engineers’ recognized the need for a change and the need to keep it in the design.


I used rubberized undercoating after de-rust as much as practical, then attached new coolant packing, drilled weep holes and sprayed some additional undercoating.


I RR skid plate & foam as part of my periodical de-rusting & rust prevention program.
Unfortunately I found the issue too late; it will rust out and be replaced in the future. That will be a great time to go with Slee's undershielding.

Toyota did responed in writing, here is what they stated:

"The purpose for the foam is to act as a vibration absorber which then prevents unwanted noise and metal fatigue, which can lead to cracking of the skid plate."

Under amor..... by slee should cure this future event.

My last bump, promises.

2001LC said:

Anyone know if the 2007 has foam rubber as well?

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Yes, it does.

2001LC said:

...Note: Radiator not larger, but there was a change in 2003: Radiator fin pitch was changed for better cooling http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbieUZJ100.htm)...

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they probably did this because they got rid of the pusher fan. My '00 has one, the '04 doesn't.

03> radiator plus 02< secondary fan equal super cooling

On the subject of the "Coolant Packing". I'm going to replace with a piece from the hardware store, or better yet auto parts store if I can find something that works. Any suggestions?

2001LC said:

03> radiator plus 02< secondary fan equal super cooling

On the subject of the "Coolant Packing". I'm going to replace with a piece from the hardware store, or better yet auto parts store if I can find something that works. Any suggestions?

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Nah. I now have diff drops on both rigs, and no cooling worries about the gap, even in AZ summers.

This seems a stretch, but comes from Toyota tech support which stated it's a "Vibration Damping device".

If your determined to replace it- I might try some skid plate foam suggested earlier in this thread- UNI-Filter makes sheets of it and it's pretty cheap- just fold it over to get your desired thickness-and zip tie it to keep it from unfolding. On my off-road bikes I've made prefilters out of this stuff-& splash deflectors, and stuffed in cracks around the skid plate on muddy days -its good stuff. Its porous so it will drain water, but the fibers won't absorb water.

Accessories | Uni Filter

Available here:
Amazon.com: Uni Filter BF-2 12" X 24" X 3/8" 30-PPI Black Coarse Foam: Automotive

2001LC said:

03> radiator plus 02< secondary fan equal super cooling

On the subject of the "Coolant Packing". I'm going to replace with a piece from the hardware store, or better yet auto parts store if I can find something that works. Any suggestions?

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What did you end up using @2001LC ? Mine also need to be replaced.

Not yet bought anything, I've just repainted the LX's skid plate and have new paint baking in the sun as we speak. I may just end up going with OEM again. That is, provided LC's # 88578-60100 Coolant Packing is still repelling water after three year, which I need to check on.

2001LC said:

Not yet bought anything, I've just repainted the LX's skid plate and have new paint baking in the sun as we speak. I may just end up going with OEM again. That is, provided LC's # 88578-60100 Coolant Packing is still repelling water after three year, which I need to check on.

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Noticed that my "Coolant Packing" was dry rotted when i was reinstalling the skid plate after it had been out for a while, Drove the car just fine in 120 Degree weather with the temp gauge not going above 40% without the skid plate on .

Good info thanks.

Keep in mind (as stated earlier in thread) although it is called a "coolant packing" Toyota CS Rep. stated to me that it is a vibration dampening device. That being said; it's been pointed out in mud that our 100's temp gauge will not move much during temp changes. We need a scan gauge hooked-up to see what is really going on with coolant temp in real time.

We'll find out Friday. Suoposed to be over 113° here. I'll check temps on the commute home. I have 6 month-old t-stat, heater tees, brand new radiator (original cracked at 240K), new fan clutch, new timing belt and water pump, OEM red coolant, OEM pusher fan (normal on my 2000), diff drop with associated gap in the foam, and Torque pro to measure the temp. So far, it's staying between 185 and 190 with the new gear. Of course, AC on max F/R this time if of year. My money's on it doesn't make any meaningful difference in temps or vibration noise, but we'll see.

Based on your temps, makes me wonder if my temps are abnormal. According to my scangauge I'm running @ 193-195f in 85-90deg air temps- if in stop n go traffic it hovers around 198 sometimes 200 (rad fluid is fresh)

2001LC said:

Good info thanks.

Keep in mind (as stated earlier in thread) although it is called a "coolant packing" Toyota CS Rep. stated to me that it is a vibration dampening device. That being said; it's been pointed out in mud that our 100's temp gauge will not move much during temp changes. We need a scan gauge hooked-up to see what is really going on with coolant temp in real time.

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That would be great but I'm not aware of any that are compatible with the 1fz 100 series

abuck99 said:

Based on your temps, makes me wonder if my temps are abnormal. According to my scangauge I'm running @ 193-195f in 85-90deg air temps- if in stop n go traffic it hovers around 198 sometimes 200 (rad fluid is fresh)

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I would "guess" that yours are typical fire for older parts, and not too far off from where mine were. T-stat opens fully at 185°, and my 185-190 temps are with a squeaky clean, brand new radiator, new fan clutch (with audible start-up roar) replacing what I believe to be the original clutch with 240K on it, new fan clutch bracket and pulley, and a brand new water pump with new factory coolant - basically a totally refreshed and optimal cooling system. With grime on the fins, slip in the clutch, and wear on the pump, I can easily see temps going to your range as pretty typical, and doubt they'd have any negative consequences.

FWIW, I "discovered" my radiator failure when the AC cut out while idling in the shade on a hit day. I popped the hood and the overflow bottle was dry, and the engine temps hit 232°. I freaked. Needle moved to visibly higher than horizontal (I then hooked up Torque to verify temps), but never to the red. I ran the heater all the way home (~5mi. ) at ~102° ambient temps.

2001LC said:

Not yet bought anything, I've just repainted the LX's skid plate and have new paint baking in the sun as we speak. I may just end up going with OEM again. That is, provided LC's # 88578-60100 Coolant Packing is still repelling water after three year, which I need to check on.

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OK thanks. I am going to re-install the skid plate without the coolant packing after it was repainted by my 5 yr old - not the greatest paint job, but it is under the car, so no one will see it . I may look around at home improvement store later to see if I can find something similar to the coolant packing.

On my 98, I do not think I have seen temp above 192F per scan gauge (connected all the time) but this will be the first summer I will monitor this.

abuck99 said:

Based on your temps, makes me wonder if my temps are abnormal. According to my scangauge I'm running @ 193-195f in 85-90deg air temps- if in stop n go traffic it hovers around 198 sometimes 200 (rad fluid is fresh)

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113 deg ambient air temps Friday afternoon on my way home from work. Air intake temp 120-130 deg. Fresh everything in the coolant system, rad, thermostat, tees, fan clutch, fluid, water pump, etc. At 80 deg ambient air temps, it's between 185 and 190.

Old bump, but curious since I know the OP is still here. What did you end up to replace the foam? Mine has been sitting next to my house for a few years and my excuse for not putting back on his I need to replace the foam.