6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain

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Rear main seal driver

From Ace Hardware c.$10. A la bsevans:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/99121-rear-engine-seal-2.html

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rms-driver-1.webp


rms-driver-2.webp
 
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DON"T DO IT....drop the pan and rear main bearing cap....when the bearing cap goes back on after swapping old for new RMS, make sure to put a tiny bit of rtv on the outer edges of the mating surface of the bearing cap as shown in the FSM...there is a pic of where/how much floating around the 40 series section somewhere...link it here if you find it....the driver method works most of the time as long as you're careful, I just always opted for a guaranteed result...
 
davegonz said:
Another good source for perches and other fab stuff is http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/ . That's where I got all of my SOA hardware for a great price.
Click to expand...

Yeah, good point davegonz. I was actually thinking about those:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/275-PERCH3.html

I like their point:
Length is 8.0" to help control axle wrap and 2.5" wide to provide a stable platform

These SOR's are 5" long, 3" wide versus Ruff Stuff's 8" x 2.75" (their page does seem to say both 2.5" and 2.75"). Both are from 1/4 plate. The price is almost identical. So, if I hadn't already been placing an order with SOR I probably would have gone with Ruff Stuff's. The ones on the FJ55 are 5" x 2.75" so if things aren't lining up well I might be going for plan b after all, when I get to that part of the project
 
Rear main seal installation

Lambcrusher got me concerned about destroying my new seal if I just hammer it in with a driver, yet I'd rather not drop the oil pan. So, I just hacked this up as a combination of two ideas from others.

1. Pin_Head wrote:
"A slick way is to drill a few holes in a piece of 3/8 aluminum plate for the flywhel bolts and use the bolts to press it in flat."
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=210903&postcount=4A

2. bsevans has his PVC driver:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/99121-rear-engine-seal-2.html

So combining the two: in my picture is sheet of steel drilled for the 6 flywheel bolts. Trapped between the steel plate and the crankshaft is a thin cross section of the 4" PVC from one of my recent posts:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8818024&postcount=101

That bit of steel from the electrical department at the local hardware store sure ain't 3/8 aluminum (as Pin_Head called for) so I'm not sure if this is going to work.

rear-main-seal-driver.webp
 
I guess I'm mentally scarred from previously having dropped oil pans only while engines were on vehicles. But when you put it that way pictorially... I could have an oil pan gasket here Tuesday and there is an engine stand here.

I am though curious to see if my first homemade SST would work.
 
Ok, I'm convinced: pan comes off.

Bunch of folks say the oil pan gasket can fail simply with age. Replacing it while the engine in on the vehicle is an annoyance I do not want to repeat again. So replacing the oil pan gasket now seems wise. And as just pointed out an opportunity to check out the bearing and oil pump on an engine I've seen run for 5 minutes but of which I know nothing else concerning the rest of its active life.

I still want to test out my RMS SST. I have two RMS on hand. So, in the name of science...
 
threadchaser,

When you pull the pan, would you mine checking the casting name and number on the oil pump, if any are present?

Betting yours says Asco, but curious if there's a "10" cast on the neck.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Delancy said:
threadchaser,

When you pull the pan, would you mine checking the casting name and number on the oil pump, if any are present?

Betting yours says Asco, but curious if there's a "10" cast on the neck.

Thanks,
Chris
Click to expand...

Will do, next week, with pictures.

I've got the oil pan off the dead F (that was one of the ones I did on vehicle). Is the ID of that oil pump of any interest to you?
 
Driver's floor pan

I got into the cabin today. Clean up and inspection revealed some cancer. Looks like the same is going on over on the right side of the floor as well.

The is sufficiently far away from the current action that I'm going to leave it for the post-Montana phase of this rebuild. I'm going to have to weld in new rockers anyway. This hassle will be part of that sub-project.

I should probably slather something on that to slow the rust down. Any suggestions are welcome. NAPA Rust Treatment is on hand and I was looking for another test for it. So, that's my default.

cancer.webp
 
Transmission cover clean up

Naphtha, which just so happened to be available, made quick work of the old gasket ("dum-dum"?) on the transmission cover and didn't seem to affect the paint at all. I saw some comments about using it to remove bumper stickers.

I'm thinking of using an old bicycle inner tube to fashion a new gasket as a temp one until I'm confident I will not be removing that cover for a long time.

naptha-and-hump.webp
 
FJ60 transmission cover

This brown tranny cover came out of the 10/83 FJ60. I haven't had the "new" tranny and T/C in yet so I'm not positive where the shifters will come up through the floor. I'm aware some modification will be required.

This puppy looks like a great candidate for getting cut up and welded to the FJ55 transmission cover. I am suspicious as to why I haven't heard of anyone doing that as these two black boots are literally made for the tranny and T/C I am installing from an FJ60.

fj60-tranny-cover.webp


fj60-tranny-cover-2.webp
 
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threadchaser said:
I got into the cabin today. Clean up and inspection revealed some cancer. Looks like the same is going on over on the right side of the floor as well.

The is sufficiently far away from the current action that I'm going to leave it for the post-Montana phase of this rebuild. I'm going to have to weld in new rockers anyway. This hassle will be part of that sub-project.

I should probably slather something on that to slow the rust down. Any suggestions are welcome. NAPA Rust Treatment is on hand and I was looking for another test for it. So, that's my default.
Click to expand...

Slather some new Steel on there.:)

Thanks Bob.
 
Threadchaser,

That's what I used, but I cut down the transfer case boot and used it for the PTO shifter. Transmission boot is very well made, should work well for you.
 
I was able to install both shift boots into the old trans cover; had to weld in a 3" round patch at 2 oclock to the new trans shift lever location, and was able to use the existing hole for the tcase shift lever. Bob's got your floorpans when you get to where you're going to do that work;)
 
bobm said:
Slather some new Steel on there.:)

Thanks Bob.
Click to expand...

bobm, a lot of that is going to have to be put on. I actually have two pigs, one early body and one late.
For my Christmas present wish list I'm just going to link family and friends to your thread and tell them to pick anything and it will work.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...unts-floor-supports-rockers-rear-corners.html

I've got these two with me but no shielding gas so for now I'm going to keep the sheet metal welding to a minimum until I get back home to my main garage where the rest of the metal work setup is.

welders.webp
 
Rust and paint removing on angle grinder

scrapdaddy said:
If you have a small hand grinder, try these http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tool...paint-stripping-discs-cleans-preps-metal.html
Click to expand...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBduNcf1eQc

Nice pointer. Ace hardware here in Montana is a different animal than the ones in Seattle. They continue to impress me with what they stock.

UPDATE:
That was a very short, fast party that was over way too soon. I wonder if there is a better brand. Here's the ones that scrapdaddy pointed at, about half the price I paid:
http://www.roarksupply.com/product-p/4.5cleanstrip.htm

As per his original URL, there may be a discount code "GRIT":
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tool...paint-stripping-discs-cleans-preps-metal.html

grinder-paint-and-rust-remover.webp
 
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