Rear engine seal

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Joined
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McCall, ID
I think I know the answer to this, but thought I'd ask to be sure:

Spring side of the seal goes to the inside of the engine (points front, right?). Sure goes on easier if you go the other way. :D
 
It would be much easier the other way, but alas it would not be right. I always have a few extra when i do one myself.

By the way Dave, thanks for all of the help on my build.

And yes spring is inside.
 
Thanks, Darin, and I'm glad to help where I can! Yep, I have a set of 3, so I think I might be OK.

Carriage bolt trick for the pilot bearing is slick, btw. :D
 
David-


Please post up a couple pics of the tool and the install and I will add this thread to the FAQ.




-Steve



:beer:
 
Sure thing, Steve.


Funny. At the hardware store I passed by one of the guys who works there. He spotted the cleanout and cap in my basket and knew immediately what it was for. (He's a jeeper). :D
 
rear cone off a tcase works pretty well too... :D

A slight improvement over the standard carraige bolt trick is to attach a slide hammer...

done it both ways and it always does the trick!
 
IDave said:
Thanks, I did see that. I was going to take in the old seal for size when I go to town tomorrow! :D


it's just a 4" cleanout but I think you already found that out. You'll also be able to return the other two seals!
 
flounder said:
it's just a 4" cleanout but I think you already found that out. You'll also be able to return the other two seals!


AND the clean out....if you don't get it dirty;)


Ed
 
Ed, that's not a bad idea. I think I'll hang on to the other seals: never know when I might need one again! :D
 
Anyway, here is the device. A little more expensive at a True Value Hardware than at Home Depot, I guess. $13 for the setup. Then a view of the F135's rear end from underneath. :eek:
DSCN5336 (Small).webp
DSCN5337 (Small).webp
DSCN5338 (Small).webp
 
You see how nicely it fits into the groove for the seal. The square nut stuck out just enough toward the back of the bellhousing that I could wack it with a hammer.
DSCN5339 (Small).webp
DSCN5340 (Small).webp
DSCN5341 (Small).webp
 
That said, after a few tries it was obvious it wasn't going to just slip in easily.

As you may have noticed, I also had the oil pan off. Of course, I'd read Poser's suggestion of dropping the rear crank bearing cap. So that's what I did next, rather than beating on the seal anymore.

Lemme tell you, if you can, that's the way to go, because it slipped right on there! :D
DSCN5342 (Small).webp
DSCN5343 (Small).webp
 
BTW, Steve, I also followed your oil pan gasket instructions: strings, long bolts and gasket sealant the way you do it. Mighty slick. I've yet to fill the pan, but I really liked the way it went together.
 
IDave said:
BTW, Steve, I also followed your oil pan gasket instructions: strings, long bolts and gasket sealant the way you do it. Mighty slick. I've yet to fill the pan, but I really liked the way it went together.

can you elaborate on this? curious as I will be rebuilding my 76 2f engine soon?

also, I always had an issue with the rear main seal on my old 2f engine leaking, are there any fixes or ways to install the seal to help ensure that you don't get a rear main seal leak in the future. It seems many cruisers I have seen over the years seem to have a rear main seal leak.

thanks,

Noah
 
1973Guppie said:
can you elaborate on this? curious as I will be rebuilding my 76 2f engine soon?

also, I always had an issue with the rear main seal on my old 2f engine leaking, are there any fixes or ways to install the seal to help ensure that you don't get a rear main seal leak in the future. It seems many cruisers I have seen over the years seem to have a rear main seal leak.

thanks,

Noah

Here's a link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78749&highlight=oil+pan+gasket

As for the seals, I imagine it's a combination of hard work, old age, and drying out that causes them to leak. Getting them in without damage seems to be the most important trick.
 
IDave said:
Here's a link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78749&highlight=oil+pan+gasket

As for the seals, I imagine it's a combination of hard work, old age, and drying out that causes them to leak. Getting them in without damage seems to be the most important trick.

Yeah, and take a hard look at that oil gallery freezeplug to the left of the crank. On my oldest engine that plug was corroded from inside to where it had a pinhole in it. There was so much black goo that I assumed that the main seal had been leaking for years, and it was, but a hint from someone in here made me look at that plug too and sure enough it was contributing.

You have nice hands, Dave. :)
 
Uh, thanks, Honk! I wonder what the guy I poked the 10 inch needle into the other day thought about them. :D

On the F135 I wasn't able to see the oil galley plug. The only way I could figure out to get at it was to pull the engine, which I'd rather not do this year. There's what I assume is a freeze plug, directly above the rear seal, of which I could just see the bottom with the flywheel off. Not like my F155.
 
IDave said:
Uh, thanks, Honk! I wonder what the guy I poked the 10 inch needle into the other day thought about them. :D

On the F135 I wasn't able to see the oil galley plug. The only way I could figure out to get at it was to pull the engine, which I'd rather not do this year. There's what I assume is a freeze plug, directly above the rear seal, of which I could just see the bottom with the flywheel off. Not like my F155.

Must have changed with the 2F, or earlier. It's a smaller than usual plug, I THINK it was 27mm, off to the left at about 10 oc'clock in relation to the crankshaft. That one closes the back of the oil gallery on 2F's Didn't know that it's not there on F engines but it makes sense considering their top oiling of the valve gear through a tube. The bellhousing removal reveals it. You have the bellhousing out, right.....

I was kidding you about the grungy bandaid. Not to worry :D
 

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