Tire pressure
- Thread starter sonofshin
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I could tell you but it really depends on your tire. Go to a truck scale and weigh the front and back of your cruiser. I take the higher number and divide it by 2. That will give you roughly how much weight is on each tire. With that number, read the sidewall of your tire and you can guestimate (or make a chart) what PSI to run.
For example, if you have 1000 lbs on each tire and the sideway of your tire says "max load 2000 lbs at 40 psi cold." you would want to run 20 psi.
For example, if you have 1000 lbs on each tire and the sideway of your tire says "max load 2000 lbs at 40 psi cold." you would want to run 20 psi.
Try chalking them: How to Chalk Tires | eHow.com
Stock tire size I ran what the door jamb says too. I noticed that stock, the fronts are softer than the rear. So I tried to replicate that with the increased pressure of larger tires.
With 285/75/16s I run 38 Front 41 rear.
Stock tire size I ran what the door jamb says too. I noticed that stock, the fronts are softer than the rear. So I tried to replicate that with the increased pressure of larger tires.
With 285/75/16s I run 38 Front 41 rear.
Actual weight applied to the ground under each tire/divided by max recommended weight per tire (per sidewall) x max PSI per sidewall.
This is what the cummins folks say to do on their site but for me personally I try several different combinations (usually between 30 and 40 PSIs) until i find one i like.
My michelins are currently near 36 and she rides great.
This is what the cummins folks say to do on their site but for me personally I try several different combinations (usually between 30 and 40 PSIs) until i find one i like.
My michelins are currently near 36 and she rides great.
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The Mack said:
Proteins? Guessing that is a spelling feature of your tablet....
Yes, air down. For real wheeling/big rocks I usually run 17-18 psi, for lighter wheeling & higher speed dirt more like 22-25, then air back up to the high 30's for pavement. I have a typical build weight-wise, lighter trucks could get away with a little less pressure, heavier trucks probably want a little more.
Main downside of being aired up off pavement is the bumpy ride & less traction. Main downside of being aired down at high speeds is hotter side walls (can weaken) and more rolling. But I'm not afraid to do either one for short distances... hope that helps
Lowering your tire pressure also helps prevents punctures on rocks. Don't ask me how. Increasing surface area which lowers the psi of sharp edges? Idk.
I'd read somewhere that you should let enough air out so that your sidewalls are 75% as high as they are at street pressure. For some reason that's supposed to be the optimal air down for most conditions.
4x4 Tire Pressure, Off Road Airing Down, Off Road Tire Pressure, Airing Down Videos, Airing Down Articles, On-board Air Systems Also saw it on some bill burke article.
I'd read somewhere that you should let enough air out so that your sidewalls are 75% as high as they are at street pressure. For some reason that's supposed to be the optimal air down for most conditions.
4x4 Tire Pressure, Off Road Airing Down, Off Road Tire Pressure, Airing Down Videos, Airing Down Articles, On-board Air Systems Also saw it on some bill burke article.
I found NO measurable mpg difference varying the pressure from 32 to 45 psi.... none. I now run my BFG ATs (275/70/18) at 35 psi. My truck has stock bumpers, no fridge or other kitchen appliances, factory rack and a Yak/Thule, MT rock rails. 3rd row is in. So, pretty light compared to some of 100s out there.
TrekboxX
Supporting Vendor
I know there's been a million threads about this, but there doesn't seem to be any consensus. It doesn't make sense to me that when going from a relatively "soft" stock tire to a heavy walled mud tire that the pressure should be higher with the same load. It seems the pressure should be less given the stiffer tire to maintain even pressure across the contact patch. When I installed my nitto trails in a 285, I chalk tested them and came up with 25 psi all around. This seems low for highway driving, but the chalk test has served me well on mud tires in the past, giving very even wear. I know there are many more factors involved in the science of tire pressure, but what am I missing? I even wrote nitto, and they suggeted a starting pressure of 40 rear and 45 front, then adjust for comfort. I don't want to adjust for comfort, I want even wear and long life from the tires.
???
???
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
Check the information that Toyo has at this link: http://cache.toyotires.com/sites/default/files/imce/LoadInflationTable.pdf . Look specifically at the information on page 95 (which is the 11th page of the pdf). This will walk you through the Tire and Rim Association's guidelines for require air pressures for changing from p-metric tires (US spec 100 series stockers) to LT tires (what most of us are running). This is the "correct" way to assess the tire pressure we should run if you do not have access to individual wheel scales to get the actual weight at each corner.
If the link above does not work, goto Load & Inflation Tables | Toyo Tires and "Load & Inflation Table Application Guide Link".
TrekboxX
Supporting Vendor
I'll check it out, thanks!
