Ok, I'll do a quick writeup for ya.
It went something like this.....
-order new seal and a bearing from CDAN.
-You'll need a Craftsman Lock Ring Pliers (Sears item #00947386000 Mfr. model #47386)
-order FIPG for sealing the two housings back up
-Order two 10mm hex key drain plugs if you so desire. One is magnetic, the other is not magnetic.
-Order a FSM from Cdan to make your life MUCH MUCH easier.
-if your vehicle is stock height, park on top of a set of ramps to give you lots of wiggle room.
-have a CLEAN work area. You're working inside your Tcase so cleanliness is very critical.
-Safety - chalk the rear wheels, wear eye protection.
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-Drain the oil out of the Tcase (good time to replace both drain plugs with 10 mm hex key style)
-unscrew the speedo gear (don't drop the little short metal key that resides inside) and push it aside.
-unplug two connectors up top (neutral and 4low?)
-disconnect the rear drive shaft at the Tcase end. Let it rest on the ground. Mark both halves just in case.
-remove the vibration damper rubber thingie from the passenger side
-undo bunch of bolts around the extension housing. They're various lengths.
-with a heavy rubber mallet, try to break the rear extension housing loose.
-Once the rear extension is ready to come out, pay particular attention to the large 3" diam ring that goes in the oil pump area. It may fall out so keep an eye out for it. This is located on the same side of the Tcase as the speedo gear. The ring sits in a groove so if it falls out, no biggy.
-remove the rear extension housing and place it on the bench
-In order for you to get to the bearing, you'll need to remove the viscous coupling and speedo gear on the output shaft. These items are held on by lock rings. Simply work your way to the output bearing and remove items along the way.
-Remove the oil pump cover and work the round plate out of the shaft. You can push this round plate out by sticking your finger through the speedo gear drive hole.
-Remove the lock ring that retains the shaft inside the extension housing.
-When you're ready to pull the output shaft out, place the extension housing on a vise. Place the vise jaws on a protrusion, NOT on the sealing surface!
-hammer the shaft carefully out of the bearing. Don't drop anything on the ground. I placed a socket at the end of the shaft to protect it. The shaft will actually go through the bearing and out the other side.
-now, you'll see a HUGE lock ring that retains the bearing to the case. Remove that and then remove the bearing.
-replace the seal by removing the outer dust cover and the pry the seal out. Place a new seal and then re-install the dust cover.
-Reverse your steps for reinstllation.
Gotchas:
-don't let the rear driveshaft come apart! Mark the two halves just in case
-resist the urge to use a screwdriver to split the case apart. You may damage the machined sealing surface!
-bolts are various lengths so stick them on a card board box as you remove them
-Always make sure that you've removed all locking rings before prying/hammering on things.
-Torque everything
-When installing the extension housing onto the Tcase, the two halves may not come together easily. Rotate the front driveshaft back and forth while trying to close the gap between the two halves.
-Don't forget to place the 3" ring in the proper place before installing the rear extension housing.
-Install the speedo drive gear properly on the shaft and then install the speedo drive (the thing you unscrewed from outside the Tcase) to make sure it turns properly. Do this first on the bench first.
-Feel free to use air tools after you've broken the bolts loose.
Total time should be around 3 hours max. I'm sorry but I don't have any pics of this little adventure.
Good luck.
Ali
the suggested lock ring pliers by 
