My First Land Cruiser - BJ60 "Wabi Sabi" (2 Viewers)

[PapaGiamati]

Not a fun job, more a right of passage, like rebuilding the front knuckles.

Wow yeah, yours looked a lot better than mine before your C Channel replacement. Its for sure on the "to do". But I think my big next push will be when the suspension parts are all gathered and I can try to smash both out in the same time as per BCSteel's recommendation.

These are just suggestions. Nice job on your truck.

Thank you! I will take as many suggestions as I can from those more experienced. Haven't bothered with the fuel items yet but it is no doubt on the "to do". I likely have an airleak somewhere as the 3B is hard to start the longer it sits stationary. My truck currently leans a good 1" to the drivers side rear, pretty sure I have a broken leave somewhere.

(edit: Maybe not an air leak, I've noticed that since the weather has been warmer, and i glow the system 2-3 times before start up and pull the hand throttle out a smidge, she fires up WAY easier when its not below 0 degrees C.)

My big inner debate right now is for the suspension.
Do I go with a lift and 33"s? A lift and 31"s? Do I go with a more stock suspension set up and 31"s?

Its all kind of up in the air, but since I'm not planning on doing any "serious" off-roading, just forest service roads and backcountry camping, ill go with a less aggressive set up...

 

[PapaGiamati]

Testing the waters up here in Canada with pricing and availability for suspension set ups, anyone test the Ironman set up for the FJ60?


The quote for this is $3,057 CAD (2250 USD)

Funny enough, the stock suspension unit from @cruiseroutfit is also $2250 USD ($3057 CAD)

Not sure which is a better deal, or is missing somethings. I know one I have to deal with customs and bring it across the border.

 

[PBcuiser]

I know the "practical" advice is to get 31s but we don't have these trucks for "practical" reasons... you wont regret 33s even if you have to drop to 4th or 3rd to get up big hills bc they will look cool

for suspension - IMO springs in the same weight class will all ride more or less the same between manufacturers but better quality shocks can really make a difference in ride quality. I'm on bilsteins 5100s and like it. Greaseable shackles are also a nice addition if you can source in CAN.

 

[Fj60+]

I just picked up a 83’ BJ60 - pretty much following your work up to a T. Keep up the great work !

 

[PapaGiamati]

I know the "practical" advice is to get 31s but we don't have these trucks for "practical" reasons... you wont regret 33s even if you have to drop to 4th or 3rd to get up big hills bc they will look cool

for suspension - IMO springs in the same weight class will all ride more or less the same between manufacturers but better quality shocks can really make a difference in ride quality. I'm on bilsteins 5100s and like it. Greaseable shackles are also a nice addition if you can source in CAN.

Best advice I have heard on the tire debate, hahaha. I want 31s cause I do enjoy the stock mall crawler look, but I know the benefits of 33s and will probably want them at some point during my ownership once I take it off-roading...

The only reason I would stick with 31s is if I get the cruiseroutfit "stock" suspension upgrade kit. Any lift kit and I'm going with 33s to fill the wheel wells more.

I just picked up a 83’ BJ60 - pretty much following your work up to a T. Keep up the great work !

Awesome! Best of luck with it! PM me if there is anything that I didn't document well enough here. My iPhone camera is busted so I don't take the best photos sometimes, or forget when I'm in a groove.

I'm no SME but enthusiastic and happy to try to help.

 

[Dekeman]

31s will have less unsprung weight and seeing these trucks are slow enough as is..... On the other hand, what @wngrog has done to many trucks is hard to beat:
Yokohama geolander m/t
235/85-16 = 31.73"
255/85-16 = 33.07"
or 255/85r16 Cooper AT’s on 16x6 FJCO wheels

 

[PapaGiamati]

Took the old girl to a buddy’s shop who gave it a once over before I have to take it to inspection. He said that the only things I need to fix before it will pass are:

1) tighten the PS Wheel bearing, it had some rotational movement about the x axis (up and down). Can you tighten wheel bearings on these? The knuckles were recently done.

2) front driveshaft (prop shaft) is a little loose at the slip ring. Need to address that

3) clean up the leaky transmission for the inspection and I’m good to go.

Was good to get the truck on a properr hoist. Forgot to take pictures of the underside!

as well I quickly drained the transmission.

Good and bad news

Good news; there was transmission fluid. And lots of it. And the wacky plumbing fittings came off with no issue.
Once again, the transmission fill plug fitting was….finger tight… which caused the leaking.

Bad news: the gear whine is still very present and loud in 4th and 5th…probably some bearing is going.

as well, it has developed a ticking now when it rolls. Sounds like the speedo cable is broken? (SOLVED)

Fluid colour looks good, and I’m certain that the PO told me he changed all the fluids prior to selling. I think I just forgot that part.

Some glitter. Not sure what to make of it. Is this amount normal?

 

[PapaGiamati]

drained the T/C fluid today. Same story, some glitter.

Chatted by up neighbour who was also working on a vehicle outside. His 1959 (chevy?) that he owned since 18. Has Mustang II front suspension, a rear diff from an impala or something and a V8 from some other old car (60's era), you can tell im not good with USDM cars hahah. Pretty sweet.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Now to the good stuff. I added all new oil to the Transmission and T Case, what a difference in shifting and moving it from H4 to H2. Used to chunk and no longer. Also reverse is easier to find.

The gear noise is still there, so sadly seems like a bearing that will have to be replaced somewhere in the driveline.

In other news, I solved the ticking! It turns out i didn’t correctly install the emergency brake. Before it used to pull waaayyyy up before it engaged. Soon after it had a notch when pulling up then loosened and I had to pull more. Not good.

Anyway, this is why the ticking noise was occurring.

I didn’t route the e-brake line correctly in the drums.

Drivers side (note I already fixed the issue for both pictures here) see where I’m pointing with the yellow cap.

Passenger side, not fixed in first photo, fixed in second photo.

Edit: although looking at the photos now looks like I didn’t quite line the cable up the same way on both sides. Need to do that again. Whoops.

Now it engages almost immediately. Wonderful.
This is full lock now.

Took it for a spin to a bluff to catch the sunset to celebrate my victory. Drove over in H4 with both front hubs locked. The owners manual says to drive 16km each month in H4 with hubs locked to grease the system and keep it all functional.

Well, when I was pulling into the parking lot with a lot of left hand down steering lock, I heard a loud click. The sort of metallic click you hear when a gear tooth is chunking or something rotational isn’t liking life. Rolled forward then put it in reverse and same click sound came from the front. So I unlocked the hubs and put it in H2. The noise no longer appeared.

Seems a hub rebuild is in my future…I hope it’s not the diff.

 

[Dekeman]

You will want to get inside the birfs just to check the bearings anyway. Rebuild kits are not that expensive and lots of tutorial here. Dirty job, but pretty satisfying when complete, and not as complicated as it looks.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Nice day out, got the PS wheel bearing tightened up so the wheel no longer clunks when you grab it at the 6 and 12 positions.

Didn’t have any extra paper gaskets but @BittersweetInfamy hooked me up with some gasket paper.

Clearly the previous owner use the classic chisel and hammer technique when this was done last.

I found a 54mm socket at the local Lordco auto parts place.

Buttoned it all back up and moved onto polishing the chrome and waxing and cleaning the truck for the first time since I’ve had it.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Then went out cruising with @BittersweetInfamy! First time cruising with another LC.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Rented a wet vacuum and finally got around the cleaning the seats and taking all the old oil/grease and Manitoba dust out of them. Let me tell you, what a freaking difference. Feels like a new truck now.

BEFORE

AFTER

AND all the grime I pulled out! Did a full clean of the seats, then let it sit for a few hours when I went to softball, then came back for another pass. Pulled out even more gunk. Probably could have done another go but I’m happy with where it’s at. I did the door panels as well, the cloth was greasy and so was the carpet on the lower half of the door panels.

I put together some warm water and the upholstry cleaner and used a fingernail scrub brush to gently scrub the headliner and took a ton more greasy finger prints and stains out of the headliner.

The smell is a lot more pleasant now that I’ve done both the carpet and the seats. Smells like a new car!!

 

[PapaGiamati]

More work is on the horizon!

I was planning to pop off the front prop shaft as it’s loose around the slip ring. Last thing I need to do before I can pass safety.

But first I got a grease gun and tried to fill the prop shaft with grease as I was unsure of the last time it was done and could just be lacking. When I tried that it came gushing out the front of the prop shaft. Looked like the front of the shaft had blown apart?

Further investigation allowed me to spin this cap(?)
Not sure if it’s meant to do that, or just broken. Either way the shaft is out and going to a driveshaft repair shop tomorrow.

Once I took the prop shaft off, I could smell diff fluid. And sure enough, the seal from the output of the front diff was leaking. Anyone know the seal or part number?

I have to research how to fix that.

 

[BittersweetInfamy]

Great work dude, it was great cruising with you!
On the front pinion seal, its a bit tricky to do but very much doable, shoot me a message and I can help out with changing it.

 

[Gimme a 60]

More work is on the horizon!

I was planning to pop off the front prop shaft as it’s loose around the slip ring. Last thing I need to do before I can pass safety.

But first I got a grease gun and tried to fill the prop shaft with grease as I was unsure of the last time it was done and could just be lacking. When I tried that it came gushing out the front of the prop shaft. Looked like the front of the shaft had blown apart?

Further investigation allowed me to spin this cap(?)
Not sure if it’s meant to do that, or just broken. Either way the shaft is out and going to a driveshaft repair shop tomorrow.


View attachment 3609751
View attachment 3609752

Once I took the prop shaft off, I could smell diff fluid. And sure enough, the seal from the output of the front diff was leaking. Anyone know the seal or part number?

I have to research how to fix that.

View attachment 3609750

My driveshaft has done the same thing, not sure if it’s normal.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Installed a wonderful product from @shipmag today. Came in the mail cross border super fast.

Installation was all of 5 minutes and the look is so much better. And much less leaky.

Out with the old

And in with the new!

 

[shipmag]

Installed a wonderful product from @shipmag today. Came in the mail cross border super fast.

Installation was all of 5 minutes and the look is so much better. And much less leaky.


View attachment 3614999

View attachment 3615000

Out with the old

View attachment 3615001

And in with the new!

View attachment 3615002

Glad you're happy sold over. 500 hoses. Thanks to the original mudders encouraging me ti
Make them.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Another “not necessary” mod, but I really wanted a clock. Most expensive clock I’ve ever bought that I couldn’t wear on my wrist! At least it came with some inclinometers.

Purchased from @FJ40GURU and shipped from AUS to CAN in record time! Thank you. Once again, love this community.

Read a few forum posts on how to wire this guy up and broke out my soldering iron and heat shrink.

Pulled apart the centre instrument cluster and realized the main light bulb was burnt out. Well I actually never knew it had one! I always wondered how people knew what the controls were at night in this thing. Bought some cheap 12V 3W bulbs at Canadian Tire and a replacement for the dome light too.

Once again I was in a hurry to finish this up to get to run club, and tacos with friends. So I didn’t take pictures of the wiring BUT, I will do my best to describe it.

The inclinometer/clock comes with the following wires.

RED - constant hot, I wired it directly into the dome light wiring harness (red w/ b) from the fuse cluster and over to the clock.

BLUE - switched 12V, spliced into the main cigarette lighter wire (red) ignition switch.

GREEN - For the back lighting positive, I found an un-used 2 prong connector just behind the instrument panel and found that one was +. Wired this in there, was wired to the light switch, now the inclinometer back lighting turns on at the same time as the rest of the panel lights.

BLACK - for the back lighting ground, I tried some locations but found that grounding it to the metal in the dash worked best.

I think I may go back in and try the other connection on the 2 prong OEM connection. Either way it works and tried all variations of lights and ignition/accessories and it works. Same with a test drive.

It was so nice to have the full dash back lit. Made it feel *slightly* less like a utilitarian tractor. And yes, my garage really is on a like a ~7% incline...

Hopefully the front prop shaft is finished this week.

 

[FJ40GURU]

Love it! Thanks for the shoutout @PapaGiamati