Steering wheel cover (1 Viewer)

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Over a month later, I still haven't received my steering wheel cover... I e-mailed for a refund and no response of course.

They did provide a tracking number, but it has been in:

"Departed Shipping Partner Facility, USPS Awaiting Item"

Status since January 3rd.

Ordered replacement through Amazon. Sigh.
 
Can anyone reply on the difficulty of putting on this leather wrap? Does the steering wheel still need to be removed to put on the wrap and the center airbag piece? Seems like a task and potential to damage the airbags?? What about the hand stitching to put the leather on the wheel, seems tedious and may require a bit of upholstery expertise to make it look right.
 
Can anyone reply on the difficulty of putting on this leather wrap? Does the steering wheel still need to be removed to put on the wrap and the center airbag piece? Seems like a task and potential to damage the airbags?? What about the hand stitching to put the leather on the wheel, seems tedious and may require a bit of upholstery expertise to make it look right.

I’m in the process of doing my second one:

588FCCB1-FB08-44AB-8CF8-ED4107185DBD.jpeg

(Leather slightly off alignment with the spokes, but stretched around the old wheel. I need to get the spokes aligned, then start stitching, but I’ll probably let it sit for 24h or so, to let the leather stretch a bit first)

In my experience, stretching the leather “loop” around the steering wheel is the most challenging part. It would be easier if I had a third hand, but it is doable with 2 hands and a foot.

I would expect it to be much more difficult to try to install it with the wheel still mounted, but I haven’t really tried. I’d expect the same to be true about trying to work around the airbag.

Steering wheel (and airbag) removal is fairly trivial.

The stitching is a little tedious, but it really didn’t take too much effort to figure out how much tension was required to make it look “right”.

My first one turned out surprisingly good for the cost and effort required, and felt/looked good enough to replace one of the Taiwanese eBay wheels. I’m hoping that the second turns out as well or better (again replacing a Taiwanese eBay wheel).
 
I’m in the process of doing my second one:

View attachment 2959939
(Leather slightly off alignment with the spokes, but stretched around the old wheel. I need to get the spokes aligned, then start stitching, but I’ll probably let it sit for 24h or so, to let the leather stretch a bit first)

In my experience, stretching the leather “loop” around the steering wheel is the most challenging part. It would be easier if I had a third hand, but it is doable with 2 hands and a foot.

I would expect it to be much more difficult to try to install it with the wheel still mounted, but I haven’t really tried. I’d expect the same to be true about trying to work around the airbag.

Steering wheel (and airbag) removal is fairly trivial.

The stitching is a little tedious, but it really didn’t take too much effort to figure out how much tension was required to make it look “right”.

My first one turned out surprisingly good for the cost and effort required, and felt/looked good enough to replace one of the Taiwanese eBay wheels. I’m hoping that the second turns out as well or better (again replacing a Taiwanese eBay wheel).

Anyone using (tried) the 'baseball' stitch on these?
 
Anyone using (tried) the 'baseball' stitch on these?
Since the stitching is really just lacing existing Loncky stitching together (not going through holes in the leather), I’m not sure that would be possible.
 
Can anyone reply on the difficulty of putting on this leather wrap? Does the steering wheel still need to be removed to put on the wrap and the center airbag piece? Seems like a task and potential to damage the airbags?? What about the hand stitching to put the leather on the wheel, seems tedious and may require a bit of upholstery expertise to make it look right.
You don't need to remove the steering wheel but it helps. Removing the wheel is very simple and won't affect your airbag light if you unplug the battery.

I've done A LOT of maintenance on my 100, and I would definitely rank this as a 8/10 difficulty. I messed up many times and had to re-do the stitching. I almost thew the wheel through the window.

10/10, would not do again.
 
I've done A LOT of maintenance on my 100, and I would definitely rank this as a 8/10 difficulty. I messed up many times and had to re-do the stitching. I almost thew the wheel through the window.

10/10, would not do again.

An interesting, and unexpected perspective. I’d rank it at a 2/10 difficulty (and maybe a 5-6/10 on level of tediousness), but maybe we have different tolerances for perfection. I personally prefer the end result of the Loncky product over the eBay Taiwanese steering wheel, but YMMV.

Since I’m doing my second one now, I guess I’m not averse to doing it again, but I do prefer my 06 LX OE steering wheel over the Loncky or the Taiwanese wheels.
 
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I just got mine in on Friday and considered Sunday a good day to do it, but after about 3 hours, I can't get this thing to fit!

My 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock spokes are not lining up at all while all the others do. I've tried with the wheel on and off and just can't get it to work. I'm pretty convinced I may have received the wrong cover, maybe the one for the LC wheel without the media controls (not sure which years)

I’m in the process of doing my second one:

View attachment 2959939
(Leather slightly off alignment with the spokes, but stretched around the old wheel. I need to get the spokes aligned, then start stitching, but I’ll probably let it sit for 24h or so, to let the leather stretch a bit first)

In my experience, stretching the leather “loop” around the steering wheel is the most challenging part. It would be easier if I had a third hand, but it is doable with 2 hands and a foot.

I would expect it to be much more difficult to try to install it with the wheel still mounted, but I haven’t really tried. I’d expect the same to be true about trying to work around the airbag.

Steering wheel (and airbag) removal is fairly trivial.

The stitching is a little tedious, but it really didn’t take too much effort to figure out how much tension was required to make it look “right”.

My first one turned out surprisingly good for the cost and effort required, and felt/looked good enough to replace one of the Taiwanese eBay wheels. I’m hoping that the second turns out as well or better (again replacing a Taiwanese eBay wheel).

This one looks correct with the non perforated section at the bottom of the wheel, mine is perforated through the whole bottom.

I've mailed them to get some support but I may be ordering another through Amazon instead of waiting weeks (ordered directly from Loncky).
 
Off with the janky $20 cover, on with the Loncky. My learnings:

  1. Easier with the steering wheel off, worth the 10 minutes it takes to pull it.
  2. Start with more thread per section than you think you need. They include a ton. First piece I did I used their 3x the length of the what your stitching "formula" and got to the point where there wasn't enough slack to turn the needle back for the next pass.
  3. Wasn't super happy on the backside, there's not enough extra material to tuck it under the plastic, so it's kind of dangling in a couple corner spots. But, it's on the back.
Overall for $60 and almost a month to get, pretty happy with it.

PXL_20220702_140457781.jpg


messages_0.jpeg
 
Well worth the time spent. Once I got the pattern figured out it is pretty easy. Do not start near the parts that go inward to the center. Start at the 12 o clock position and work outward one way, then do it the other way. Likewise from the bottom, start at 6 oclock and run outward, followed by 6 oclock again outward the other way.

IMG_20220507_214533.jpg
 
Well worth the time spent. Once I got the pattern figured out it is pretty easy. Do not start near the parts that go inward to the center. Start at the 12 o clock position and work outward one way, then do it the other way. Likewise from the bottom, start at 6 oclock and run outward, followed by 6 oclock again outward the other way.

View attachment 3048361
are the starting points easy to "tie off" are their instructions on how to conceal the thread starting points?
 
I'm 6 months in and still love the way it feels, still super soft. The tie offs are easy, they have you Bic the ends to singe them, I tried that with the wheel on and got a little too crispy with one and it undid the knot. For the rest I just cut them super close with surgical scissors and then put a dot of superglue on the knot to keep it from backing out ever.
 
I don't think anyone has mentioned it here, but I like to just remove the cover when the leather wears out. I prefer the feel of the smaller in hand wheel with just the factory finish. I have done it for a few friends over the years in 4runners,tacos and 80 series and most don't realize that you don't need a cover. I haven't actually done it to a 100 series but I'm fairly certain most toyota steering wheels are made relatively close to the same way these days.
They are usually black so that's a bit different but if you don't mind that then you'll be fine. I hate it when I get in somebody's vehicle and their wheel is soooo big you can barely get your hands around it because they've added another layer of whatever overtop of the worn out factory cover. Give it a shot, you might like it. It is a much better feel than a wheel with a deteriorating cover IMOP.
 
I'm 6 months in and still love the way it feels, still super soft. The tie offs are easy, they have you Bic the ends to singe them, I tried that with the wheel on and got a little too crispy with one and it undid the knot. For the rest I just cut them super close with surgical scissors and then put a dot of superglue on the knot to keep it from backing out ever.
I don't think anyone has mentioned it here, but I like to just remove the cover when the leather wears out. I prefer the feel of the smaller in hand wheel with just the factory finish. I have done it for a few friends over the years in 4runners,tacos and 80 series and most don't realize that you don't need a cover. I haven't actually done it to a 100 series but I'm fairly certain most toyota steering wheels are made relatively close to the same way these days.
They are usually black so that's a bit different but if you don't mind that then you'll be fine. I hate it when I get in somebody's vehicle and their wheel is soooo big you can barely get your hands around it because they've added another layer of whatever overtop of the worn out factory cover. Give it a shot, you might like it. It is a much better feel than a wheel with a deteriorating cover IMOP.
U have a picture available? Thanks I never thought of this
 
Some people might be triggered by this but I fixed my wheel by adding some Tourna leather tennis grip tape.
image.jpg
 
are the starting points easy to "tie off" are their instructions on how to conceal the thread starting points?
Yes, starting points you just tie off, you don't need to hide them as the thread and knots are so small. I can feel them if I really want to go hunting for them but they are tiny.
 
Is there a non chinese (Loncky) version of this DIY steering wheel wrap?
 
A few folks here have had their wheels re-done at like an auto upholstery shop with good results, but you're looking at $300 vs. $60. For an off the shelf kit, this one's been really good.
 

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