Tricks to removing the cargo area access panel to the fuel level sender? (1 Viewer)

[TLC4K2]

One of this week's to-do items was to figure out why my gas gauge is dead. Suspect #1 was the fuel level sender, parked over the gas tank. Toyota engineers very politely gave us an access hatch through the floor of the cargo area. God bless 'em, and mine was a refreshing perfect medium blue. But the bolts are impossible to turn and one appears to be fairly corroded. I've been applying PB Blaster each day and working them gently, to no avail. We're preparing to heat the area with a hot air gun to do the "heat/beat/repeat" approach to things, and we have an impact driver in reserve as another trick. But given this whole area is directly above the fuel tank, we really don't want to get too rowdy with it. Any suggestions for how to get that hatch off?

 

[CruiserTrash]

For starters get yourself some JIS screwdrivers - they help so much for all the cross-point screws in these trucks. Yes, there are other cross-point bits/heads outside of Philips!

Second, probably lots of PB Blaster over several days.

 

[TLC4K2]

Huh, learn something new every day. Never heard of JIS screwdrivers until you mentioned them. Just did a bit of reading, and yea I just couldn't quite get a good hold of those bolts today, even after trying to fit several differently sized/shaped Phillips heads. I'll definitely pick up a JIS screwdriver (or 2 or 3). And yea, PB Blaster gets used a lot around here. Three old tractors and a shed full of old implements make for a lot of corrosion.
Kathryn and Kaylee

 

[CruiserTrash]

Welcome to the Japanese Industrial Standard! I feel it makes a huge difference.

I think newer Toyota OEM screwdrivers (from the 90s or 00s) we’re made by Vessel. You can buy those or just go straight to the source. Lots of other options too.

 

[TLC4K2]

I'll definitely give those a go before I try more drastic measures. Really, really really don't like the idea of doing anything drastic, that close to the fuel tank.

Speaking of which, I know that there was a recall on FJ60 fuel tanks. I haven't called the dealer yet to see if that was ever done, but it didn't show up on Carfax as being completed. Is that still something which the dealer could do or would do or is obligated to do? Is that something I could do myself (or maybe should steer clear of?) Another item on The List Which Dominates My Existence.
Kathryn and Kaylee, who's quite the list-maker

 

[OSS]

The FJ60 gas tank recall is still valid. The dealer does all the work - no charge. There’s a couple parts no longer available but there’s a workaround for it.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I'll definitely give those a go before I try more drastic measures. Really, really really don't like the idea of doing anything drastic, that close to the fuel tank.

Speaking of which, I know that there was a recall on FJ60 fuel tanks. I haven't called the dealer yet to see if that was ever done, but it didn't show up on Carfax as being completed. Is that still something which the dealer could do or would do or is obligated to do? Is that something I could do myself (or maybe should steer clear of?) Another item on The List Which Dominates My Existence.
Kathryn and Kaylee, who's quite the list-maker

Go HERE and type in your VIN. It will tell you if the recall has been done or not.

I did the recall on the tomato truck (and Matilda is eligible for it). Absolutely free gas tank - parts and labor, the whole bit. There’s some more nuance to it than that, do some searching for more.

 

[Gretsch]

Get one of these:

Amazon product ASIN B07R96M9VW
and maybe some JIS bits for it.

Amazon product ASIN B08HCT4KV1
This is a magical tool if the screws are stuck in place. Driver is sort of spring loaded. As downward force is applied to it the driver twists and turns the screw. So you hit the top of it with a hammer and the force drives the bit into the screwhead preventing the bit from coming out and marring the head while the driver is applying twisting force to turn the screw all at the same time. Once you see it in action, it will make sense and you will wonder how you lived without it. HTH.

 

[3_puppies]

is this a 60 or 62?
62 series has a connector below the jack mount that gets corroded,

 

[TLC4K2]

It's an FJ60, so thankfully we don't have the FJ62 issue. As for the impact driver, we do already have one but I was a little concerned that the impact from the hammer might damage the fuel sender underneath. Also didn't know we could get JIS bits for it. Thanks for the suggestion that we can proceed with that approach. Learning all sorts of nifty stuff. And thanks for the link to find out if the gas tank has been replaced. I don't have the VIN in front of me at the moment, but I'll get it in a bit and figure out if that's something else we need to do.

Hope all you MUD folks are doing well this morning. This sure is an awesome group of folks. Not sure I mentioned it early on, but Kaylee's PO was about to put her permanently out to pasture when he decided no, maybe he can find someone to fix her up. It's thanks to you fine folks that she's getting fixed up. Without the MUD group, I would have just stared out the window at her and wondered "hmmm, how do I do this stuff?"
Kathryn and Kaylee, who's glad to still be on the road

 

[Gretsch]

Get one of these:

Amazon product ASIN B07R96M9VW
and maybe some JIS bits for it.

Amazon product ASIN B08HCT4KV1
This is a magical tool if the screws are stuck in place. Driver is sort of spring loaded. As downward force is applied to it the driver twists and turns the screw. So you hit the top of it with a hammer and the force drives the bit into the screwhead preventing the bit from coming out and marring the head while the driver is applying twisting force to turn the screw all at the same time. Once you see it in action, it will make sense and you will wonder how you lived without it. HTH.

and we have an impact driver in reserve as another trick.

Sorry OP I missed this bit that you had an impact driver in your first post.

I don't think it would take anything but some light taps to free these screws with that driver. I am not sure how using that tool would damage the existing sender. If memory serves the sender is a good bit away below the deck. Maybe a couple of inches. GL.

 

[TLC4K2]

Good to know about the bit of separation distance, @Gretsch! From the illustrations it looked like the sender was in direct contact with that access panel. As for the impact driver, I'd forgotten all about it until Hubby reminded me we had it. I've already got some JIT bits on order (thanks for that too BTW) and I'll keep dosing the existing screws with PB Blaster until the bits get here. Then we'll see if I can coax those screws out.

One more question though: if the screws use a JIT standard for the cross point, does that mean the thread pitch/depth/count is also a little off from the garden variety metric screws I'd get at the hardware store? The PO tried to match those screws on the passenger side rear view mirror and messed up the threads in the attempt. Now I'm wondering if I'm going to have to get OEM screws for every little corroded screw I find.
Kathryn and Kaylee

 

[micruz60]

Try to tighten the screws a bit first; that may crack the corrosive seize, then back them out.

The real battle will be with the actual lid / sender on the tank- there are four tiny screws which will most likely be seized.

GoodLuck

 

[cps432]

For what it’s worth, some of the brass threaded fittings on the engine block are also Japanese standard, which is very close to the British standard, but has a different pitch angle. I just learned about this the other day when researching plugs for blocking off temp sensors on the engine block. The fitting is actually threaded with a taper and wouldn’t take a plug that is readily available. Sometimes if you’re having problems with something on this truck, it’s because you’re dealing with something that is not universal.

I replaced my sending unit last summer and I recall those screws being quite stubborn. I was able to remove them with a Phillips head, but having the JIS would have been ideal. I really ought to get a set of bits for those moments when I really need them.

 

[Samppahj]

Drill out the heads and remove the lid. Then with a torch give a bit heat to the remaining screws and then some freezing spray. Get a grip of the screws with vice grips. They should get loose with this procedure if nothing else helps. First you could try the impact tool. The sender is not directly under the lid so no worries on gamaging that when wrestling with the lid.

 

[OSS]

Then with a torch

Gas tank…

 

[Gretsch]

 

[Samppahj]

Gas tank…

Well it takes a lot of heat and time to heat up the gas tank to that point it blows up with a small torch. At the sender unit there will be no vapor either because it is quite far away from the breathers an filling tube. And when the lid is out of the way you can stuff some wet rags in the opening to protect the tank from heat. You don't need to heat the screws to red glow.

 

[cps432]

Famous last words

 

[MrMacdugal]

Pretty sure those screws go into a plastic nutsert. They should pop free with some heat and firm twist.