I just did mine today. I made a plate to hold the harmonic balancer out if a 1/2" sheet of fiberglass. Worked great.
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zane
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alia176
SILVER Star
Ingenious dude 
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Evening Mud
Last year I did all the normal oil leak stuff.
I am suspecting my timing chain cover and or upper oil pan front saddle.
I've read a few other threads. I'll plan to degrease and spray the sheen and dirt off, come back to it watching very carefully where it starts from again.
I also suspect the power steering pump o-ring to block seal. I have a spare seal once clean I might swap that out and then keep an eye on it.
The strange thing on this oil leak is that they're also seems to be oil over on my power steering high pressure line but my crankshaft pulley is dry so the main seal is not slinging grease around the engine bay.
Any ideas?
Last year I did all the normal oil leak stuff.
I am suspecting my timing chain cover and or upper oil pan front saddle.
I've read a few other threads. I'll plan to degrease and spray the sheen and dirt off, come back to it watching very carefully where it starts from again.
I also suspect the power steering pump o-ring to block seal. I have a spare seal once clean I might swap that out and then keep an eye on it.
The strange thing on this oil leak is that they're also seems to be oil over on my power steering high pressure line but my crankshaft pulley is dry so the main seal is not slinging grease around the engine bay.
Any ideas?
Just happened to have a piece of 1/2" thick FRP hand lay up flat stock made from non directional E glass laying around?
That is a great way of securing the crankshaft!!!! What did you use to hold the fiberglass in place in the square hole?
I cut a square hole and used a 3/4 inch breaker bar against the frame
Square hole and breaker bar
I'm using Mobile-One also. I got a little oil coming from this area. I think it's the oil pump seal. Have you replaced your oil pump seal yet?There is at least one other that I know of. I've been running M1 0-40 in mine for 11 years.
video quite helpful
Changed out my kids 96 land cruiser main seal and oil pump o-ring. Went with out a hitch so to speak had to go get a starp wrench to hold the water pump pully to tighten the fan back on but other than all went well. Well low and behold go out this morning and there is some fresh oil on the driveway!!! I say in earlier post that some time it takes a few days for the o-ring to swell up? Anyone had this issue? Anyone monitor this post any more LOL. Thanks in advance
i don't think that gaskets/o-ring swells
i did the job last week, and my steering stabilizer is still shedding the oil i leaked on/into it for 2 years.
Yeah I was thinking it might be something like that. The front of his engine was oil leak mess. I cleaned for good hour. Ill just keep a eye on it. I dont feel like I could have done anything different
I did the valve cover, the dizzy O-Ring at the same time in order to take care of the engine oil leaks from the top down.
No, O-rings and gaskets for the oil pump do not swell up. They are designed to seal and be there.
Hello, I still monitor this thread. You may want to check the seal around the crankshaft position sensor. It is located on the bottom front of the upper oil pan. Mine was leaking and I just replaced it this weekend. Haven’t uploaded the video yet, but it’s pretty straight forward and you won’t lose your oil if you pull that sensor out. Only issue is they do not sell the oring for the CPS by its self. I got a 19mm (measured on the ID) x 2.4MM thick oring from O’Reily’s Auto Parts and it fit the relief on the oil pan sealing surface nicely. You can stick it there while putting the sensor back in with some dabs of axle grease. 10 min job if you have the new oring.
RTH on this one - I've got the balancer off no bother and the front main seal replaced just fine.
But the screws on the oil pump cover are stripping out - someone had been in there before me as 3/7 looks pretty roasted already and it feels like they may have used some heavy duty thread lock or torqued them up to ingersol rand torque spec - there is no sign of any of the 7 even budging. Most of the heads are mauled at this point. Not a single screw has come out despite being as careful as I could and tried all the usual hints - tapped in a #3 JIS bits etc and it still just cams out/ mauls the screw.
I've also tried drilling out one screw top left and using an easy out from the top with a 90 degree drill - but no joy - the bolt extractor won't bite at all - just spins in the screw.
They are holding hard enough I've actually checked to see if they were spot welded in place !
Anyone got any suggestions for next steps or is it pull the radiator and front facia for better access and get in from the front ?
I'd rather do 100 PHH jobs than try this one again - I need it back on the road by Monday morning.
Pics of the carnage below.
I guess the other option is put it all back together and pretend I didn't notice that it's leaking like the Exxon Valdez......
But the screws on the oil pump cover are stripping out - someone had been in there before me as 3/7 looks pretty roasted already and it feels like they may have used some heavy duty thread lock or torqued them up to ingersol rand torque spec - there is no sign of any of the 7 even budging. Most of the heads are mauled at this point. Not a single screw has come out despite being as careful as I could and tried all the usual hints - tapped in a #3 JIS bits etc and it still just cams out/ mauls the screw.
I've also tried drilling out one screw top left and using an easy out from the top with a 90 degree drill - but no joy - the bolt extractor won't bite at all - just spins in the screw.
They are holding hard enough I've actually checked to see if they were spot welded in place !
Anyone got any suggestions for next steps or is it pull the radiator and front facia for better access and get in from the front ?
I'd rather do 100 PHH jobs than try this one again - I need it back on the road by Monday morning.
Pics of the carnage below.
I guess the other option is put it all back together and pretend I didn't notice that it's leaking like the Exxon Valdez......
Last edited:
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
We have all be there, I would normally suggest Joey Wits End @NLXTACY jis bits but your pretty well done. I'll get these beds regardless to prevent future stripping of threads and heads down the road.
I did all this a few years ago and in hind sight I wish I would have pulled the head, oil pans, timing cover, radiator and just baselines doing it all at once.
I learned the hard way in and out in and out and got bit on a head gasket and had to do it all again anyway.
Anyway I don't know the history of your truck or the previous owner but yes pulling the radiator will give you more room, if you're not going to baseline the whole unit you can gently drill out or use easy outs with a little propane heat, careful now go slow.
Not knowing your history and again sharing my experience I wish I would have just done a valve/head gasket job timing chain the whole bit out the gate.
I did all this a few years ago and in hind sight I wish I would have pulled the head, oil pans, timing cover, radiator and just baselines doing it all at once.
I learned the hard way in and out in and out and got bit on a head gasket and had to do it all again anyway.
Anyway I don't know the history of your truck or the previous owner but yes pulling the radiator will give you more room, if you're not going to baseline the whole unit you can gently drill out or use easy outs with a little propane heat, careful now go slow.
Not knowing your history and again sharing my experience I wish I would have just done a valve/head gasket job timing chain the whole bit out the gate.
Funny you could mention it - all sitting on the shelf waiting to go on if I can get the screws outWe have all be there, I would normally suggest Joey Wits End @NLXTACY jis bits but your pretty well done. I'll get these beds regardless to prevent future stripping of threads and heads down the road.
I did all this a few years ago and in hind sight I wish I would have pulled the head, oil pans, timing cover, radiator and just baselines doing it all at once.
I learned the hard way in and out in and out and got bit on a head gasket and had to do it all again anyway.
Anyway I don't know the history of your truck or the previous owner but yes pulling the radiator will give you more room, if you're not going to baseline the whole unit you can gently drill out or use easy outs with a little propane heat, careful now go slow.
Not knowing your history and again sharing my experience I wish I would have just done a valve/head gasket job timing chain the whole bit out the gate.
The second pic is the screw's I've not touched yet - all I did was give them a scrub with gunk degreaser.
I've had the truck 10 ish years - previous history completely unknown but the the owners partner was a "home mechanic" and I've found quite a few issues as I've worked through everything.
Also just noticed in the first pic on the second screw down there has been a notch cut by a someone who isn’t me.
Does this look fine or should I plan on replacing the cover ?
Does this look fine or should I plan on replacing the cover ?
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
so with the head already mauled up- you may have to drill them out. Use a left hand drill bit, not the home depot drill bit sitting on your shelf. A TRUE LEFT HAND DRILL BIT AND SET THE DRILL TO SPIN TO THE LEFT.
not sure if you have access to a small welder but i would try to tack a bead next if the drilling out does work and try to get them out. take your time.
if you cant do neither, just button it back up and pretend nothing happened
not sure if you have access to a small welder but i would try to tack a bead next if the drilling out does work and try to get them out. take your time.
if you cant do neither, just button it back up and pretend nothing happened
