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One winch two trucks and a trailer.
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On my Bj60 the brakes have always felt a little inadequate. Let me explain my callipers and drum cylinders are new, adjusted properly the 60 series just never braked as well as a 40 series especially towing a load. Both of mine use the same braking system same front callipers, rear drums and master cylinder except the brake booster is different. I did some research the 60 series comes with a 10 inch single diaphragm brake booster and the 40 series comes with an 8 inch dual diaphragm booster. More boost!!

10 inch single diaphragm booster.
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Swapped to an 8 inch dual diaphragm booster.
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I picked the 8 inch dual diaphragm booster because I was hoping to squeeze it beside my clutch booster unfortunately it wasn’t to be and the clutch booster had to go also.

I now have amazing brakes. I can stop easily and safely with a loaded trailer at a red light from speed on the highway.
 
On my Bj60 the brakes have always felt a little inadequate. Let me explain my callipers and drum cylinders are new, adjusted properly the 60 series just never braked as well as a 40 series especially towing a load. Both of mine use the same braking system same front callipers, rear drums and master cylinder except the brake booster is different. I did some research the 60 series comes with a 10 inch single diaphragm brake booster and the 40 series comes with an 8 inch dual diaphragm booster. More boost!!

10 inch single diaphragm booster.
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Swapped to an 8 inch dual diaphragm booster.
View attachment 2859171

I picked the 8 inch dual diaphragm booster because I was hoping to squeeze it beside my clutch booster unfortunately it wasn’t to be and the clutch booster had to go also.

I now have amazing brakes. I can stop easily and safely with a loaded trailer at a red light from speed on the highway.
Bummer. I used a mid 90’s model 4Runner dual diaphragm booster on my USA FJ60 and it fits with my clutch master. Not sure of the diameter right now. Also, not sure what the differences are in left hand vs right hand drive provisions on the firewall. I’d rather have easy reliable brakes than an easy clutch, though, anyway. I dealt with that on my 66 ford pickup. No fun.
 
Sorry this is for the Diesels:

One random day the thought occurred to me that my non intercooled turbo 3B might not be getting all the air it could use at full send threw the stock air cleaner.

Conveniently I found my air cleaner lid had this nipple I never noticed before seemingly perfect for this test.
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A carburetor vacuum gauge slipps right on
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Top picture at idle, bottom picture is anything over 1600 rpm. So I’m pulling around a 1/2 psi negative pressure threw the stock air cleaner at anything over 1600 rpm.
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A couple things might help correct that there are manny variants of the stock air cleaner lid, some for larger displacement motors.
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Also my thoughts are to up size the stock air cleaner pre filter intake pipe that’s around 2 7/8 Id.
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So I pulled the air cleaner can and started cutting
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Tried to keep the angle for the air to swirl around the filter while up sizing to 3 1/2 inch and stainless pipe. Welding that thin stainless is skill building
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And tested, now with the new lid and 3 1/2 inch pre filter intake pipe i can’t get the vacuum gauge needle to move at any rpm.
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I also welded up a squirrel cage for in the fender so I don’t accidentally suck up any rodents now that my 3b is breathing like a baleen whale.
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And lastly I believe I can push it a little harder on the hills now with less egt temperature at 10psi. I still do have to eventually back off the throttle on the mountain passes here in BC.
 
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so what you did is akin to flipping the air filter lid like we did back in the day of carburetors. back then i found that an inline 6 filter lid was the same diameter as the air filter itself for a q-jet on a 427.
gotta like it when a theory works out, eh?
 

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