Normal Operating Temperature? (LC200 after radiator replace) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 18, 2010
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Location
Los Angeles
Evening all - had to replace my radiator due to the 'cracked radiator' common problem.

Since I never paid attention to it before the stupid thing cracked, I was wondering if this looks about right for the normal operating temperature.

Info: 75-80-degree outside temp, driving in normal conditions for about :30min when pic was taken. Used the factory 'Asian Formula' properly mixed pink coolent.

2018-11-18-19-54-08-20181118-191414-Medium.jpg


Thanks - Patrick
 
Get a obd2 Bluetooth adapter and Torque app on phone and get real time numbers for coolant temps... at normal operating temps mine range from 185-195 °F... sometimes creep up to around 200 °F..
 
ODBII - damn it - should have thought of that - yes I have one, a three foot extension cord and it's BlueTooth.

Just sitting in my wine-fridge, stain' cool, wanting to contribute....

Guess I'll do that tomorrow....
 
Well, well - aren't you guys super smart.

Here's the reading from this morning - seems perfectly nominal. Hadn't been running it that long when I took the reading.
Screenshot-20181119-114320-Torque-Lite.jpg


Thanks all!

Patrick
 
How often do folks creep up to high 190s? Mine creeped up to 203 for a second while coming back from Las Vegas this past weekend. 6 hours of driving most in 90 degree heat.

Rest of the ray temps ranged from 185-194
Towing?
What’s your build like.. lights blocking the grille? Big tires/roof rack/bumper that increase aero drag?
How many miles on your fan clutch? Original radiator? If not, did they clean the condenser core before installing the new one?
 
Towing?
What’s your build like.. lights blocking the grille? Big tires/roof rack/bumper that increase aero drag?
How many miles on your fan clutch? Original radiator? If not, did they clean the condenser core before installing the new one?
Sorry,

No towing, ARB baserack, michellin defender tires 285/70/17. Arb drawers, slee sliders.

Everything else is stock. Fan clutch is original at 188k miles. New rad, WP, hoses, belts, pulleys at 160k (one year ago)

Averaging 194 is pretty normal for the 5.7, no?

To add I did Socal to Vegas, chilled for a few hours and then drove back.


EDIT:

I replaced the following

160310S010​
1
$ 28.61​
WATER INLET SUB-ASSEMBLY, WITH THERMOSTAT
163800S010​
1
$ 134.35​
BRACKET, FLUID COUPLING
161730S011​
1
$ 61.98​
Engine Water Pump Pulley
166200S012​
1
$ 50.04​
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner
1220438010​
1
$ 4.49​
PCV Valve
90466A0026​
2
$ 5.82​
Radiator Hose Clamp
HOSE(FOR RADIATOR INLET); HOSE(FOR RADIATOR OUTLET NO. 1).
9046743002​
1
$ 3.56​
Radiator Hose Clamp
HOSE(FOR RADIATOR INLET); HOSE(FOR RADIATOR OUTLET NO. 1); RADIATOR HOSE, NO. 2.
1657238131​
1
$ 19.20​
Radiator Coolant Hose
1657138080​
1
$ 14.60​
Radiator Coolant Hose
1640150370​
1
$ 9.58​
Radiator Cap
1640050384​
1
$ 225.78​
Radiator
 
Last edited:
Sorry,

No towing, ARB baserack, michellin defender tires 285/70/17. Arb drawers, slee sliders.

Everything else is stock. Fan clutch is original at 188k miles. New rad, WP, hoses, belts, pulleys at 160k (one year ago)

Averaging 194 is pretty normal for the 5.7, no?

To add I did Socal to Vegas, chilled for a few hours and then drove back.


EDIT:

I replaced the following

160310S010​
1
$ 28.61​
WATER INLET SUB-ASSEMBLY, WITH THERMOSTAT
163800S010​
1
$ 134.35​
BRACKET, FLUID COUPLING
161730S011​
1
$ 61.98​
Engine Water Pump Pulley
166200S012​
1
$ 50.04​
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner
1220438010​
1
$ 4.49​
PCV Valve
90466A0026​
2
$ 5.82​
Radiator Hose Clamp
HOSE(FOR RADIATOR INLET); HOSE(FOR RADIATOR OUTLET NO. 1).
9046743002​
1
$ 3.56​
Radiator Hose Clamp
HOSE(FOR RADIATOR INLET); HOSE(FOR RADIATOR OUTLET NO. 1); RADIATOR HOSE, NO. 2.
1657238131​
1
$ 19.20​
Radiator Coolant Hose
1657138080​
1
$ 14.60​
Radiator Coolant Hose
1640150370​
1
$ 9.58​
Radiator Cap
1640050384​
1
$ 225.78​
Radiator
I bring up fan clutch because it is a wear item and has been on my mind for my truck too. Especially for trucks with more aero drag like yours, it plays an active role in moving enough airflow through the radiator to keep up with the horsepower demands of pushing the vehicle through the air at highway speeds.

That said.. I haven’t tracked temps that close. 203 isn’t anywhere near hurting anything.. do you track temps full-time and this is an anomaly? Or just happened to be looking then?
 
I assume we can rebuild our fan clutches with oil like others right?

I have a scan gauge so I take a peek here and there but as I was climbing low grades I just had my eye on it. Especially after operating the truck all day
It is just a fluid coupling but with virtually zero documentation on the proper fluid viscosity personally I’d rather just install a new one. They aren’t crazy expensive. About $150 last time I checked. From my spreadsheet 16210-38071 is the part number.



I should dig around in the FSM though..
 
It is just a fluid coupling but with virtually zero documentation on the proper fluid viscosity personally I’d rather just install a new one. They aren’t crazy expensive. About $150 last time I checked. From my spreadsheet 16210-38071 is the part number.



I should dig around in the FSM though..
@bloc

I dug around the FSM, I couldn’t not find a temp range or any additional steps for the fan clutch other than inspect, remove, and install.

I’ll keep an eye on it. I tried to spin the fan when engine is cold and it feels pretty tight. I’m probably just worrying way too much :)
 
Update: I followed a few guides to tell if a fan clutch is bad. Everything appears good. Fan clutch feels tight after it was hot.
What I did find out is the fan clutch on my GX470 is on the way out as I used that to compare. I am sure its just ambient temps outside.

 
Well, well - aren't you guys super smart.

Here's the reading from this morning - seems perfectly nominal. Hadn't been running it that long when I took the reading.
Screenshot-20181119-114320-Torque-Lite.jpg


Thanks all!

Patrick

Pretty normal from what I've seen in my own dashboard. The cooling system is pretty stable and robust.

I've seen a max of 203*F towing a large camper on that same stretch to Vegas on the 15fwy.

I don't think the clutch is a concern on these vehicles even into higher mileage. Never saw much of anyone changing them on the 100-series.

I could be wrong but the fan clutch is largely only engage at idle and low speeds. I believe it disengages at highway speeds.
 
Pretty normal from what I've seen in my own dashboard. The cooling system is pretty stable and robust.

I've seen a max of 203*F towing a large camper on that same stretch to Vegas on the 15fwy.

I don't think the clutch is a concern on these vehicles even into higher mileage. Never saw much of anyone changing them on the 100-series.

I could be wrong but the fan clutch is largely only engage at idle and low speeds. I believe it disengages at highway speeds.
What are your temps when not towing during this time of year? Around town on freeways in SoCal mine ranges from 190-196
 
What are your temps when not towing during this time of year? Around town on freeways in SoCal mine ranges from 190-196

That's pretty typical. Here's just cruising on the freeway.

1684263687228.png
 

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