How to bleed and adjust hydraulic clutch? (1 Viewer)

[rideglobally]

I have a 12ht engine and a H55 transmission. Re build the transmission and the t-case (done by a shop). Installed a Heavy Duty Terrain Tamer clutch and a new clutch slave. How do you bleed the system and adjust a hydraulic clutch? I have done some googling and watch video. I am looking for information specific to my set up. thank you.

 

[doug720]

I have a 12ht engine and a H55 transmission. Re build the transmission and the t-case (done by a shop). Installed a Heavy Duty Terrain Tamer clutch and a new clutch slave. How do you bleed the system and adjust a hydraulic clutch? I have done some googling and watch video. I am looking for information specific to my set up. thank you.

To start, since you have done all this work, I would replace the clutch master cylinder also. I always do both at the same time.

As to bleeding, really no different than bleeding brakes. If you do clutch master - bench bleed it, then install new parts. Get someone to pump clutch, crack bleeder on slave cylinder, Repeat as needed, remembering to keep the master reservoir full!

In my experience, the LC clutch bleeds quite easily.

 

[John McVicker]

I agree with Doug. The clutch is extremely easy to bleed properly.

For me, the easiest method is to gravity bleed the clutch. Simply open the bleeder at the clutch slave, catch the fluid in a container and keep topping off the master until you're completed.

 

[rideglobally]

To start, since you have done all this work, I would replace the clutch master cylinder also. I always do both at the same time.

As to bleeding, really no different than bleeding brakes. If you do clutch master - bench bleed it, then install new parts. Get someone to pump clutch, crack bleeder on slave cylinder, Repeat as needed, remembering to keep the master reservoir full!

In my experience, the LC clutch bleeds quite easily.

I agree with Doug. The clutch is extremely easy to bleed properly.

For me, the easiest method is to gravity bleed the clutch. Simply open the bleeder at the clutch slave, catch the fluid in a container and keep topping off the master until you're completed.

Thx, what about adjusting the clutch? Should I adjust first then bleed?

 

[John McVicker]

Bleed it 1st. Unless you're having issues now, won't require any adjustments.

 

[rideglobally]

Bleed it 1st. Unless you're having issues now, won't require any adjustments.

It has a lot of travel before the pedal engage the clutch. thx

 

[doug720]

Did you get the correct slave?

On a 60, there are 2 slave cylinders - 1 adjustable up to 6-9/85, and non-adjustable after 9/85.

If correct slave, it may need adjustment. Sometimes you need to adjust the pedal also.

 

[rideglobally]

Did you get the correct slave?

On a 60, there are 2 slave cylinders - 1 adjustable up to 6-9/85, and non-adjustable after 9/85.

If correct slave, it may need adjustment. Sometimes you need to adjust the pedal also.

My transmission is after 9/85.

 

[doug720]

It's not the transmission, its the clutch fork, bell housing, and possibly other parts that determine which slave to use.

 

[rideglobally]

It's not the transmission, its the clutch fork, bell housing, and possibly other parts that determine which slave to use.

How would I determine that?thx

 

[emac]

Sometimes a slave can be hard to bleed because you are trying to force air down and it want to go up. I have used this technique several times with good results.

 

[rideglobally]

Sometimes a slave can be hard to bleed because you are trying to force air down and it want to go up. I have used this technique several times with good results.

Thx, video was very helpful

 

[doug720]

Does the slave match the one you took off? IE, adjustable end or non-adjustable end where it meets the clutch arm?

If it matches, you should be good. Was the clutch, engine and bell housing sourced as one unit?

 

[rideglobally]

Does the slave match the one you took off? IE, adjustable end or non-adjustable end where it meets the clutch arm?

If it matches, you should be good. Was the clutch, engine and bell housing sourced as one unit?

Yes & yes. Thx

 

[Kschep]

I agree with Doug. The clutch is extremely easy to bleed properly.

For me, the easiest method is to gravity bleed the clutch. Simply open the bleeder at the clutch slave, catch the fluid in a container and keep topping off the master until you're completed.

Trying to bleed mine for first time - under there Im seeing everything clearly obviously but since its my first time I'm not exactly seeing the bleed valve on the slave ... or is there not one and I just need to dis-attach the line?

going to watch the video below and see if I can figure it out by watching that.

Thanks

 

[duncanrm]

I often use a light bit of air pressure in the fluid reservoir to force the bleeding process... just poke your air blower nozzle from your compressor under the reservoice cap and try to get a bit of a seal and then just apply very light air pressure with the clutch slave bleed nipple opened up.. once you've got a good solid stream of fluid close the nipple.. job done.

 

[Kschep]

so going back to my dumb question - I think I'm seeing the bleed nipple (directly above that main line? metal nipple? - opposite side than rod/ruber housing.... how do I "open it up?"

I can run outside and get a pic of what talking about if needed

 

[John McVicker]

I just to be sure a picture will help.

You will need a 10m open end wrench. Best to have what is called a ‘flare wrench’. W/o a flare wrench it is very easy to round off the head.

 

[duncanrm]

As mentioned previously.. I lightly pressurise the clutch fluid reservoir until a steady stream of fluid is coming out of the bleed nipple I then tighten it up whilst the stream is coming out.. requires two people. Be careful to keep the reservoir topped up.

 

[FJACS]

For me, the easiest method is to gravity bleed the clutch. Simply open the bleeder at the clutch slave, catch the fluid in a container and keep topping off the master until you're completed.

This is by far the easiest method for clutch and brake bleeds. Fill the reservoir with fluid, crack the bleeder open just slightly so bubbbles are forming. Walk away. Walk the dog, wash the truck, have a drink. Close the bleeder - done.

Just don’t let the reservoir empty.