How to bleed and adjust hydraulic clutch?

[Paul DiNapoli]

the adjustable type works with the earlier bell housing/clutch fork

vs the later ones - not much to adjust.

if all your parts are from the same year range and you have the lower kit...bleed it well. all the adjustment you have is up at the clutch pedal and master cyl end

 

[Kschep]

thank you thank you

 

[Kschep]

View attachment 1971315

As mentioned previously.. I lightly pressurise the clutch fluid reservoir until a steady stream of fluid is coming out of the bleed nipple I then tighten it up whilst the stream is coming out.. requires two people. Be careful to keep the reservoir topped up.

so when I bleed, the "flexible line" is directly below, therefore fluid will run over it before dripping to container...?

 

[FJACS]

You can slip a piece of clear tubing on the nipple to limit the mess.

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

You can slip a piece of clear tubing on the nipple to limit the mess.

beat me to it!!

i was just crawling around under my truck to get a photo of exactly that.

slide some 3/8 tubing over the nipple. it’s snug enough to stay put and still leave the flarenut accessible.
if you’re using proper flare nut wrench you’d put the wrench into position then attach the tubing.

with long enough tubing you can direct the fluid right into a can.

 

[Kschep]

Perfect.. & I have a roll of that exact tubing laying around thanks!

 

[bluefish]

DiNapoli, whered u score that line? Is it running all the way to your master or just a shorter length and solid line the rest of the way?

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

DiNapoli, whered u score that line? Is it running all the way to your master or just a shorter length and solid line the rest of the way?

hose right off the master - straight to the slave

Hydraulic Fittings – Portland, OR – Oil Filter Service Co.

www.ofsco.net

they're a hydraulic line service shop in portland. when i was doing my 5 speed swap i had intentions of doing a factory hard line - but couldn't fine one. so then i thought i'd buy bulk steel lines and learn to bend and flare my own - but no one around my area had the tubing i needed...so this was the easy solution to get me to the finish line. a year later it seems to be OK.

7 feet of stainless braided line - SAE threaded female connectors on the hose - and an adapter to get from SAE to metric.
this

+ this:

and it works fine. admittedly - it doesn't look as factory - but if i'm road tripping through idaho/wyoming - any hydraulic line shop will have hose, crush washers and adapters...so it's good for reliability - low cost - easy field repair on a road trip.


EDIT: 6 foot hose would be plenty - and would dress in a little neater. 7 feet is too much - I have a couple of loops to take up some hose...which I think looks messy...but it works fine. I can dig up the receipt if you need exact part #'s

 

[duncanrm]

hose right off the master - straight to the slave

Sweet mod.. thanks for that idea.

 

[FJ60Seth]

I bought a cheap bag of 60ml catheter syringes off eBay. Use a little piece of tubing to connect to the bleeder.

 

[bluefish]

Thanks Paul. Good deal too.

 

[Kschep]

thanks for the help y'all .. clutch is working like a gem now... on to the next issue

 

[bluefish]

Good to hear. Which method did you go with?

 

[Kschep]

Good to hear. Which method did you go with?

So I did the gravity bleed .. was expecting it to bleed slower, but maybe I opened up the valve pretty good - anyways took about a minute and 20 seconds to empty or less..I flushed it first because of all the nastiness inside the reservoir..refilled with clutch fluid and let it bleed out and viola. Clutch is working like new basically. It has a level of stiffness I expect from a clutch now that it didn't have when I test drove it to buy it - so I'm pleased. Thanks to everyones help I appreciate it. On to the next issue - stay tuned for "whining in my engine" & "choke/engine warming/serious oil burning" hah