'76 FJ40 Cranks but Doesn't Run (1 Viewer)

[dorotos]

Hey everyone, after a few years of working on my fj40 and reading through mud, this is my first actual post. My Landcruiser's run recently, but currently doesn't start. It'll crank but barely, and by barely I mean very slowly and in a jerking way. I've already checked for spark, and am in the process of making sure that fuel is getting to my engine. Any ideas on what it could be?

PS: Here's a pic of my fj from a few weeks ago, ill post a pic of the engine when I find/take one.

 

[hobbes]

I'd check the battery, cables to the starter, and make sure both are grounded to begin with.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Generally, bucking is due to inadequate fuel delivery, usually rust or dirt in the tank or anywhere else in the fuel system or a bad pump. However, if an electronic tachometer drops to zero while the engine is rotating, the ignition system is dropping out. It intermittently shorts out, this would seem like bucking and it might be accompanied by backfiring out the tail pipe.

When it is not getting enough fuel, it usually bucks and spits back through the carb, which is not what I would call hesitation.

Why not measure the fuel delivery first. Remove the coil center wire and the fuel inlet pipe at the carb. Stick the pipe into a bottle and crank the engine for 15 seconds. You should get at least a half a cup of fuel.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

As @hobbes said, “battery, cables, grounds”.

Make sure your:

- battery is fully charged
- battery terminals are clean and snugged down
- battery cables are good and have clean snug connections
- grounds are clean, to bare metal... especially:
a. the battery- to PS frame rail, behind PS wheel and
b. the starter body ground to the PS frame rail, by the clutch slave cylinder.

 

[samatulich]

Check the fusible link as well. When mine wouldn’t start a years or so ago, it was due to a corroded fusible link. I wiggled the fusible link and it popped off right at the battery terminal end. Easy to check as it is right there between the battery and wire harness.
If the fusible link is toast, you will want to check for resistance elsewhere in the wire harness. Turned out the connection from the ignition lock cylinder to the wire harness was toast. Once I had replaced the fusible link and fixed the connection from the lock cylinder the thing fired right up.

 

[dorotos]

Thanks guys, I've been charging the battery overnight and I'll try again tonight. The battery cables definitely need to be updated, and I'll check the connections too.

 

[hobbes]

While you're under the hood, check the sight glass in your carb (if it has one). It should be roughly half full of fuel.

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

When you go to the parts store take your battery with you and have it load tested.

 

[dorotos]

I think It's definitley an issue with the battery or the cables. i charged it and when i tried to start it, and it sounded better, but still wouldnt start. The connections to the battery started smoking, and were hot to the touch. I'm gonna get new cables, but I do have a problem. The previous owner did their own wiring, so none of it is stock. I'll have to splice in the cables and figure out just what the hell they did.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Again, if you have t already done so...

Make sure your:

- battery is fully charged
- battery terminals are clean and snugged down
- battery cables are good and have clean snug connections
- grounds are clean, to bare metal... especially:
a. the battery- to PS frame rail, behind PS wheel and
b. the starter body ground to the PS frame rail, by the clutch slave cylinder.

This is from a June 2008 post I found when I was chasing electric gremlins a couple of years ago, on another blog:

“First I would stop trying to start the car because you will cause alot of electrical issues in everything else. I know this sounds stupid but check to make sure you have the pos term hooked to the pos and neg to neg. (preliminary)
Remove the starter solonoid wires and check the continuity between the two lugs with no power across the small lug (solonoid coil). There should be none. Then check to see if there is continuity between the solonoid lugs and ground. There should be none. Energize the solonoid and check the lug to ground(none). Check across the lugs you should get continuity.
After that the next step is to check the starter lug to ground. there should be no continuity.
The starter system is pretty simple on these cars and a large current which will smoke the cables is a sure sign of power going diesctly to ground. I believe the solonoid is broken it is probibly directing some electric to the starter and some to ground through the solonoid. Or the starter is shorted out and bleeding electric direct to ground, its just a matter of testing the solonoid and starter to find which one is bad.”

 

[mrboatman]

I think It's definitley an issue with the battery or the cables. i charged it and when i tried to start it, and it sounded better, but still wouldnt start. The connections to the battery started smoking, and were hot to the touch. I'm gonna get new cables, but I do have a problem. The previous owner did their own wiring, so none of it is stock. I'll have to splice in the cables and figure out just what the hell they did.

If your cables started smoking that is high amp draw. if that happened during or while you were trying to start it and during the time the starter was turning the engine over you could have a bad starter or partly seized engine. I would pull all of the plugs and see how it turns over then. Also see if you can turn the engine over by hand. If so you are back to the starter.
JP

 

[dorotos]

If your cables started smoking that is high amp draw. if that happened during or while you were trying to start it and during the time the starter was turning the engine over you could have a bad starter or partly seized engine. I would pull all of the plugs and see how it turns over then. Also see if you can turn the engine over by hand. If so you are back to the starter.
JP

Any ideas on how to crank it by hand? It's pretty hard to reach the crankshaft nut.

 

[mrboatman]

You can put it in 3rd gear and rock the truck forward and backward it should turn over easy with no plugs in Also before doing that pull the main coil wire going to the dist cap center!!
JP

 

[dorotos]

You can put it in 3rd gear and rock the truck forward and backward it should turn over easy with no plugs in Also before doing that pull the main coil wire going to the dist cap center!!
JP

Thanks! I'll try that, heading to the store for new battery cables right now.

 

[dorotos]

Cleaned up the battery cables, sounded much better. It starts with starting fluid, but doesn't run. Fuel dumps out of the fuel pump.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

What do you mean?

Where does fuel dump out of, on the pump?

Where is the dumped fuel going?

If its an oem mechanical pump and it’s dumping fuel into the crankcase, the pump diagaphram is leaking... in which case, you need a new fuel pump... and an oil and filter change, before trying to start it again.

 

[dorotos]

What do you mean?

Where does fuel dump out of, on the pump?

Where is the dumped fuel going?

If its an oem mechanical pump and it’s dumping fuel into the crankcase, the pump diagaphram is leaking... in which case, you need a new fuel pump... and an oil and filter change, before trying to start it again.

It's the OEM pump, fuel leaking out the diaphragm and out the side/bottom of the pump. I could do some southern engineering and build a new diaphragm, but i'll probably give in and buy a new one.

 

[mrboatman]

Here you go Highly Recommended OEM Mechanical Fuel Pump and Gasket for 9/'77 and Earlier Land Cruiser FJ40
JP

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Sniff your dipstick (not a joke) and see if it smells like fuel... you don’t want fuel in your crankcase... not a lubricant and bad for bearings, etc.

Were it me, I’d not chance it... I’d change the oil and filter, to be safe.

 

[Martyt]

Lots of good info in this thread— main reason I love MUD so much— knowledge!