Need help troubleshooting my 1994 1FZ-FE 80 series! (1 Viewer)

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Evening to all! Need help troubleshooting my engine problems. It started about a month ago when I was driving my Land cruiser towards work up a hill that was barely steep and that was a 3-4 miles stretch. After coming to a stop at a light and accelerating, I notice in my rear view mirror a big plume of smoke! Wasn't overheating at all, temp gauge was at the same spot every time. Pulled over immediately, popped up the hood and check to see if I had anything else going on. Radiator looks fine, coolant still green, and oil still clean (not milky brown)! Mind you that was a month ago, ever since then it never did it again.

Now about a day ago it did it again and same thing no over heating or coolant in oil. Head gasket was done 2 years ago. Drove to work today it was fine. New symptom occurred right went I started it up to go home! It started sputter, stumble, misfiring, and wanted to shut down. Turn the car off and popped the hood to check and see if anything is wrong. I see nothing, pulled on wires, checked all vacuum lines, checked fluids, and all the usual. Found nothing! Barely got home driving it only 45 mph! I started by pulling out spark plugs. 1 and 2 looked fine. 3 had a slight white dust on it! Didn't get a chance to pull out 4, 5 and 6 as it was getting dark. My question is what can be the problem? Spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, and head gasket was changed 2 years prior. Please need assistance!
 
Do you have an oil catch can on the PCV system?

If so, remove it.

If no, then change or clean your PCV valve.
 
Pulled engine codes?

Troubleshoot the EGR system?
Cracked intake tube from the AFM to throttle body?
Open the gas tank cap to see if it vents?
 
any check engine light? does light come on when you turn key to run?
while you have all the plugs out do a compression test. you can get a loaner compression gauge at the local parts box store.
check EGR valve/ senor. i have had multiple issues with running ruff EGR related.
i have also seen antifreeze drip down from the heater control valve and short out #6 injector.
never noticed any fluid it was a small drip.
 
Do you have an oil catch can on the PCV system?

If so, remove it.

If no, then change or clean your PCV valve.
I have no catch can on my engine, its pretty much bone stock everything, besides the battery from Costco. But yeah I'll check the pcv valve.
 
Pulled engine codes?

Troubleshoot the EGR system?
Cracked intake tube from the AFM to throttle body?
Open the gas tank cap to see if it vents?

I don't have a check engine light if that's what you're saying. 3 years ago, I did have a cracked intake pipe that I use high temp epoxy to glue together and used electrical tape to wrap it up (I know I was on a tight budget at that time!), but it worked! Gas cap vents every time I open to pump gas. But I will check the EGR system. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
any check engine light? does light come on when you turn key to run?
while you have all the plugs out do a compression test. you can get a loaner compression gauge at the local parts box store.
check EGR valve/ senor. i have had multiple issues with running ruff EGR related.
i have also seen antifreeze drip down from the heater control valve and short out #6 injector.
never noticed any fluid it was a small drip.

I don't have any check engine that's on if you're asking. I don't see any leaking of coolant on the #6 injector. Checking the EGR system I can do that, but the compression test is something I'm not familiar with, but if someone walks me through it I'm mechanically incline enough to do it! I appreciate the suggestions.
 
it basic. just got get compression test kit from your favorite auto parts store(they should have a loaner kit) .
1. warm up engine
2. disconnect distributor connector (electrical plug/wire)
3. remove all spark plugs
4. pull the EFI fuse.
5. attach gauge to cylinder #1
6. press the throttle down (to allow free flow of air into the engine).
7. turn key to start and hold for a couple seconds. (engine should turn over several times for each cylinder to get a good reading)
8. go record the number on to gauge for #1 cylinder.
9. zero out or clear/reset reading on gauge before moving to next cylinder.
10. repeat steps 5-8 for the remaining cylinders (2-6)

new engine Compression pressure: 171 psi or more.
Minimum pressure: 128 psi
the Difference between each cylinder should be 14 psi or less.

when you finished reverse steps 4-1

post up results.

also how old are you plug wires?
 
Last edited:
it basic. just got get compression test kit from your favorite auto parts store(they should have a loaner kit) .
1. warm up engine
2. disconnect distributor connector
3. remove all spark plugs
4. pull the EFI fuse.
5. attach gauge to cylinder #1
6. press the throttle down (to allow free flow of air into the engine).
7. turn key to start and hold for a couple seconds. (engine should turn over several times for each cylinder to get a good reading)
8. go record the number on to gauge for #1 cylinder.
9. zero out or clear/reset reading on gauge before moving to next cylinder.
10. repeat steps 5-8 for the remaining cylinders (2-6)

Compression pressure: 171 psi or more.
Minimum pressure: 128 psi
the Difference between each cylinder should be 14 psi or less.

when you finished reverse steps 4-1

post up results.

also how old are you plug wires?

Ok sounds simple enough, thanks! My plug wires are fairly new I replaced them after the head gasket was done, so about 2 years ago. They're NGK by the way if you're wondering. Hoping my local Autozone has a compression test kit!
 
Evening to all! Need help troubleshooting my engine problems. It started about a month ago when I was driving my Land cruiser towards work up a hill that was barely steep and that was a 3-4 miles stretch. After coming to a stop at a light and accelerating, I notice in my rear view mirror a big plume of smoke! Wasn't overheating at all, temp gauge was at the same spot every time. Pulled over immediately, popped up the hood and check to see if I had anything else going on. Radiator looks fine, coolant still green, and oil still clean (not milky brown)! Mind you that was a month ago, ever since then it never did it again.

Now about a day ago it did it again and same thing no over heating or coolant in oil. Head gasket was done 2 years ago. Drove to work today it was fine. New symptom occurred right went I started it up to go home! It started sputter, stumble, misfiring, and wanted to shut down. Turn the car off and popped the hood to check and see if anything is wrong. I see nothing, pulled on wires, checked all vacuum lines, checked fluids, and all the usual. Found nothing! Barely got home driving it only 45 mph! I started by pulling out spark plugs. 1 and 2 looked fine. 3 had a slight white dust on it! Didn't get a chance to pull out 4, 5 and 6 as it was getting dark. My question is what can be the problem? Spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, and head gasket was changed 2 years prior. Please need assistance!
What color was the smoke you saw? How was the engine idling at the stop before taking off and seeing the smoke?
 
What color was the smoke you saw? How was the engine idling at the stop before taking off and seeing the smoke?

It was a big plume of white smoke, the idle became irratic for a few seconds and it cleared itself. I quickly pulled over after 1/8 of a mile thinking that it's over heating, but wasn't. My wife just mention to me that it did the same thing to her when she drove it around 1-2 months ago to work.(Geez women!)
 
It was a big plume of white smoke, the idle became irratic for a few seconds and it cleared itself. I quickly pulled over after 1/8 of a mile thinking that it's over heating, but wasn't. My wife just mention to me that it did the same thing to her when she drove it around 1-2 months ago to work.(Geez women!)
Have you inspected the engine wire harness in the area where is passes beside the egr tube? If not, remove the factory insulation and loom so you can separate all the wires and look for heat damage and bare wires that have shorted together causing an injector to hang open.
 
Ok fellas after tinkering around and checking for anything loose or broken, everything seems fine. Besides the intake hose with hair line cracks that I just use electrical tape to wrap it up (I know I know it was just a quick fix for now, but got a new one ordered!) Checked last 3 spark plugs and #4 has white dust just like #3! Spark plug #5 and #6 looked fine. Vacuum hoses looked fine no cracks or broken, PVC valve was cleaned. I cleaned the throttle body since it was opened. I couldn't get a compression test kit (no extra vehicle, it's my DD). Put everything back together. Started her up same rough loopy idle, but now a check engine light! Pulled the codes and got codes 25 and 26. Codes for running rich and lean!? WTF! Now I'm really confused!
 
Have you inspected the engine wire harness in the area where is passes beside the egr tube? If not, remove the factory insulation and loom so you can separate all the wires and look for heat damage and bare wires that have shorted together causing an injector to hang open.

No I didn't open the wire loom, during the time I did the head gasket I remember the wire loom was fine, it wasn't burnt or damaged, but was advised to use heat wrap it to protect it. I might have to double check it find out for sure.
 
No I didn't open the wire loom, during the time I did the head gasket I remember the wire loom was fine, it wasn't burnt or damaged, but was advised to use heat wrap it to protect it. I might have to double check it find out for sure.
Yes, because internal engine problems are not usually intermittent.
 
The white on plugs 3&4 indicate lean condition.

If the other plugs are wet and smell like gas, that would be rich.

Either way, it also points to O2 sensors.

Unplug and replug them. May be time for those.

White smoke any time usually means coolant.
Blue smoke is oil.
Black smoke is too much fuel.

Blue Smoke on steady acceleration is rings.
Blue smoke on deceleration is valve seals/guides.
Blue smoke after idling or upon startup is valve guides/seals.

Black smoke on acceleration is too much fuel.

White/gray "smoke" on cold day startup is condensation in exhaust.

White smoke (billowing clouds of it) is coolant/antifreeze and likely head gasket.
 
The white on plugs 3&4 indicate lean condition.

If the other plugs are wet and smell like gas, that would be rich.

Either way, it also points to O2 sensors.

Unplug and replug them. May be time for those.

White smoke any time usually means coolant.
Blue smoke is oil.
Black smoke is too much fuel.

Blue Smoke on steady acceleration is rings.
Blue smoke on deceleration is valve seals/guides.
Blue smoke after idling or upon startup is valve guides/seals.

Black smoke on acceleration is too much fuel.

White/gray "smoke" on cold day startup is condensation in exhaust.

White smoke (billowing clouds of it) is coolant/antifreeze and likely head gasket.

That's the odd thing is the coolant level is still good, not a drop in the level. But I'll try some new O2 sensors tomorrow since I'm off from work. Just annoyed by this issue right now. Thanks for the input and suggestions!
 
@1994LandCruiser with the coolant level, check the reservoir but also take the radiator cap off and check there too. If the cooling system has a leak, it won't be able to siphon fluid from the reservoir so it can show normal while the radiator is low.
 

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