Will a double cardan driveshaft allow for more travel? (1 Viewer)

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I know it gets rid of the grrrs, but will it sllow for more wheel travel on a coilover front end?
 
I suppose you could look at it that way - it would supposedly be more forgiving of articulation, but yeah - really it's about killing the grrrrrs of a pinion that has been dropped & rotated.
 
The angles aren't extreme, I don't think you could get enough articulation to stress the u-joints.
 
Thinking of c/o on stock style suspension. However, i WILL part time it for sure.

I dont think it will allow more travel, if anything it might help u joints live longer, but thats not even a slight concern. I just have 2 dc driveshafts from my 93 pu and thought they might be helpful, not that ill toss them, but at 3” height now and prob 4” max in the future, i can put it out of my mind. Unless someone says something otherwise, i think it is a waste of time for me. Going part time and all. I just like clean travel, happy parts and low maintenance.
 
I think it also depends on which DC you use.

Some will have less range of movement before they bind up.
It'll only help vibrations if set up correctly, if not the unis can be shorter lived than in a standard shaft.
At 3" lift, you'd do better putting your $$ into some new OEM uni joints
 
Thinking of c/o on stock style suspension. However, i WILL part time it for sure.

I dont think it will allow more travel, if anything it might help u joints live longer, but thats not even a slight concern. I just have 2 dc driveshafts from my 93 pu and thought they might be helpful, not that ill toss them, but at 3” height now and prob 4” max in the future, i can put it out of my mind. Unless someone says something otherwise, i think it is a waste of time for me. Going part time and all. I just like clean travel, happy parts and low maintenance.
Coilovers on oem radius arms is a dumb idea unless you're into brodozing
 
Coilovers on oem radius arms is a dumb idea unless you're into brodozing
To a degree. I am thinking of making new radius arms, i will be able to get more travel, articulate more and have height adjustability. If i am using stock location shock mounts, then i am limited to whats produced. I could always just do shock mounts, but thats nearly the same amount of work, Just a little less money.
 
To a degree. I am thinking of making new radius arms, i will be able to get more travel, articulate more and have height adjustability. If i am using stock location shock mounts, then i am limited to whats produced. I could always just do shock mounts, but thats nearly the same amount of work, Just a little less money.
How will you accomplish those goals?
 
How will you accomplish those goals?


Heimed radius arm at frame, uniballs or maybe a heim at axle. Less binding than bushings, and should allow for more range of angle.

I have not played with it yet, so maybe its not feasible or worth the effort. However, i own 90% of the materials and have done a bit of suspension work like this before. I would use the stock arms as my jig base. I will cycle the suspension without and shocks/coils to see what bind points or points of contact would/could be. Adjust my design from the factory arms as needed or not.

Ive seen broncos(solid axle) with 14” c/o up front using every inch of it(minus limit straps/bumps) and wanted to try it since then. They were using stock radius arms. Could have been modified, but i didnt get too good of a look.
 
Heimed radius arm at frame, uniballs or maybe a heim at axle. Less binding than bushings, and should allow for more range of angle.

I have not played with it yet, so maybe its not feasible or worth the effort. However, i own 90% of the materials and have done a bit of suspension work like this before. I would use the stock arms as my jig base. I will cycle the suspension without and shocks/coils to see what bind points or points of contact would/could be. Adjust my design from the factory arms as needed or not.

Ive seen broncos(solid axle) with 14” c/o up front using every inch of it(minus limit straps/bumps) and wanted to try it since then. They were using stock radius arms. Could have been modified, but i didnt get too good of a look.

Seems to me a little more work and you could just build a 3 link and actually have decent geometry and good flex
 
Seems to me a little more work and you could just build a 3 link and actually have decent geometry and good flex
Maybe, and i might. This also might net me sililar results without the added bars. Maybe it will be a waste of time/money/resources but if my built arms don’t work out, then i just bolt back on my stockers. I will do arms before coilovers, i have a buddy eith a ramp, so i can test it all out as i go.
 
Coilovers on oem radius arms is a dumb idea unless you're into brodozing

Why do you insist on being the fun killer? Coilovers, it's gona be all race car and stuff, they said so on that TV show!
 
Why do you insist on being the fun killer? Coilovers, it's gona be all race car and stuff, they said so on that TV show!
At least coilovers make all sorts of race car creaky rubby squeaky terrible noises. I love my dual rate sliders chattering up and down on the threads of the shock body
 
At least coilovers make all sorts of race car creaky rubby squeaky terrible noises. I love my dual rate sliders chattering up and down on the threads of the shock body
Oh come on now, its nowhere near that bad.
I dont plan on going to the country club in the fxxxer!

Ive had plenty of coilover, heimed trucks on the street. And as far as quiet, it would be nice if my icon springs would quit pinging on the coil bucket when on washboard roads. Wanna talk about loud and annoying?!
 

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