Need a little windshield advice...wwyd? (1 Viewer)

[jerryb]

Paul, or anyone, can you say what the windshield glass adhesive dam is? is it a square foam thing or urethane strip or something?
for anyone elses info, the 182 dollar pieces are 94.57 on part souk. I had a cart with those and the rubber strip covers, rivets, upper outer cover, and cowl rubber cover, it was about 300 with shipping.
I don't understand the adhesive dam terminology though.

 

[2001LC]

I'm pretty sure "Adhesive Dame" is urethane, but read through procedure to make sure. The "stoppers" are actual blocks of rubber or some materiel.

It could be they are used to dam urethane. Been awhile since I read.

 

[TXLX100]

I'm pretty sure "Adhesive Dame" is urethane, but read through procedure to make sure. The "stoppers" are actual blocks of rubber or some materiel.

It could be they are used to dam urethane. Been awhile since I read.

Adhesive damn is urethane adhesive, usually applied with a motorized gun. It's nasty stuff, you don't want it anywhere but in the windshield Channel.

 

[TXLX100]

Here is mine opened up. You can still still see some old urethane hanging off the frame.

 

[jerryb]

Just seemed odd. There's a part number for those dams. I've also never seen an LC screen removed. Just wondered, that's all. I'm probably getting to a point where I'll install one next year.

 

[pbreisch]

I ordered the dams and they should be here by the end of the week (fingers crossed). If they show up next week I will be out of town and the truck is going to get the windshield installed without me being able to document it. Hopefully I can get a pic to show what they look like.

Dam Part Number: 64813-52010 Upper, Right and Lower Dam $9.43 each
Dam Part Number: 56117-60050 $6.82 (Lower)

 

[jerryb]

That would be cool.

 

[2001LC]

Adhesive damn is urethane adhesive, usually applied with a motorized gun. It's nasty stuff, you don't want it anywhere but in the windshield Channel.

Paul, or anyone, can you say what the windshield glass adhesive dam is? is it a square foam thing or urethane strip or something?
for anyone elses info, the 182 dollar pieces are 94.57 on part souk. I had a cart with those and the rubber strip covers, rivets, upper outer cover, and cowl rubber cover, it was about 300 with shipping.
I don't understand the adhesive dam terminology though.
View attachment 1574057

I ordered the dams and they should be here by the end of the week (fingers crossed). If they show up next week I will be out of town and the truck is going to get the windshield installed without me being able to document it. Hopefully I can get a pic to show what they look like.

Dam Part Number: 64813-52010 Upper, Right and Lower Dam $9.43 each
Dam Part Number: 56117-60050 $6.82 (Lower)

I just went back and read the FSM. The dams are a strips of rubber like materiel with adhesive back.

If you ever watch a typical installer install a windshield, you see it is very different then the FSM procedure. I'm oh with that!

What I'm really interested in is if rust is found in a virgin, form rust belt or wetter climate.

"Virgin being factory installed windshield."

 

[TXLX100]

I just went back and read the FSM. The dams are a strips of rubber like materiel with adhesive back.

If you ever watch a typical installer install a windshield, you see it is very different then the FSM procedure. I'm oh with that!

What I'm really interested in is if rust is found in a virgin, form rust belt or wetter climate.

"Virgin being factory installed windshield."

Somehow the original windshield survived in my 1998 until recently (tons of rock chip repairs). No rust. But an improperly installed one will rust very quickly.

 

[2001LC]

Somehow the original windshield survived in my 1998 until recently (tons of rock chip repairs). No rust. But an improperly installed one will rust very quickly.

That is really good info.

Any rust anywhere, I mean anywhere on the rig even minor?

 

[Jimthom]

Yep. When I went through this last year, my '07 was out of the age window for State Farm to replace with OEM glass. I went with Safelite, and they went to bat with the insurance to replace all the molding needed to do the install correctly. They convinced the insurance peeps that they couldn't guarantee the install to be leak-free with the old molding. Totally worth talking to the actual installer if you can. If you can't, switch shops. My local Safelite guy knew all the trouble spots, had done many of the 100-series windshields, and did a great job. He even fixed all the rust under the windshield. Safelite has been hit-and-miss on 'MUD, but I had a good experience.

In my neck of the woods and for the kind of driving I do, broken windshields are a fact of life. It happens way too often to even consider OEM glass on my dime. Find a good installer with a good warranty. Glass brand (for me) is a distant third place. As long as it is clear and distortion free, just run it until it breaks again.

Would you be able to name the Safelite shop and installer? I live near Seattle and it might just be worth it to go to Beaverton for a quality windshield job. I

 

[TXLX100]

That is really good info.

Any rust anywhere, I mean anywhere on the rig even minor?

No, my LX is zero rust, north Texas 100% of life. The coating/paint on the 100 series was good stuff. It was on the beach for about an hour once.... the trailer hitch has some rust staining, but that's just from the inside where paint has worn off from ball mount.

 

[Dparo]

Update:
State Farm is paying for a Toyota windshield with all new moldings.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Update:
State Farm is paying for a Toyota windshield with all new moldings.

Well hot dog, that's awesome! How'd you pull that off? Any tips for someone looking to do the same?

 

[C6H12O6]

Would you be able to name the Safelite shop and installer? I live near Seattle and it might just be worth it to go to Beaverton for a quality windshield job. I

Sorry. I can’t find the paperwork. It was the Safelite in Beaverton (only one) on TV Highway. Middle-aged Hispanic guy was the installer. I don’t recall his name. Full disclosure before you drive down, he went with screws instead of rivets, as he thought the seal was better. He has done a bunch of them and knew all the details and the reasons for the rivets, but said without the right river tool, factory rivets and all new trim and window frame, screws were a better option. Plus, the job had already been done (poorly) with screws before. He used a low-profile head screw and the seal was great. No leaks a year later, no wind noise, and no issues of any kind. Overall, I’m as happy as I could be about a windshield.

 

[Dparo]

Well hot dog, that's awesome! How'd you pull that off? Any tips for someone looking to do the same?

My tint guy gave me a recommendation and that guy actually knew of the unique LC issues. He recommended to the insurance company full replacement with all factory moldings.

 

[Dparo]

A little more info on this...

I just got off the phone with the install company, Abra. http://abraauto.com/

They have it in their system that 100 series Land Cruisers require factory parts (windshield/rivets/molding) due to fitment issues and wind noise. I just verified that ten minutes ago. They have locations in many States, so hopefully this helps someone going forward.



My appt is set up for next week, I will update accordingly.

 

[suprarx7nut]

A little more info on this...

I just got off the phone with the install company, Abra. http://abraauto.com/

They have it in their system that 100 series Land Cruisers require factory parts (windshield/rivets/molding) due to fitment issues and wind noise. I just verified that ten minutes ago. They have locations in many States, so hopefully this helps someone going forward.



My appt is set up for next week, I will update accordingly.

Sweet, they are in Colorado! Awesome info, thank you very much!

 

[Dparo]

Windshield was replaced today and so far I could not be happier about it. When the old one was removed we couldn’t find any issues with the paint and all Toyota parts were used. Thanks to everyone for their input.

 

[C Robles]

Windshield glass is a matter of preference. Today, many people don't ask about the brand of auto glass being installed on the vehicle. Seeing that you have idea of whats available, I would recommend going with a better product. From my experience, many aftermarket products are just as good as an OEM manufactured glass. It really depends on the type of aftermarket brand being offered. If the brand is FYG or XYG manufactured, then you're more then likely to encounter color and visible distortions. If you have a good auto glass shop installing the glass then they'll take the extra precautions in looking for these issues prior to installing it. If the vehicle means that much to you then get the better glass. If you intend on testing the windshield durability again, purchase a cheap one and don't take the chance of breaking the more expensive one. If you want more info, hit this webpage. www.allstarwindshields.com. They always handle my auto glass needs when I'm in California.