Transmission install fj40. 1980. Planned disaster (1 Viewer)

[78fj40mg]

Ohhhh man.


...via IH8MUD app

Too bad you are not close to PNW I'd love to help you install your tranny.

 

[eaj71]

Thanks for the offer

I beat this into submission this evening

Will be filling up with gear oil tomorrow and giving it a whirl

Thanks to all the advice and encouragement

Hah!!!





...via IH8MUD app

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I am sure by now everyting has been done or tried.
what is the point of the community if all it is is search old posts.

maybe someone has a new spin, mother necessity creates some innovative solutions.

I don't remember seeing a bunch of "use search" responses in this thread. in fact, I think most everyone posted up what has worked for them. there aren't a myriad of option when it comes to "pick it up and stick it on", and all of them were brought to your attention. glad you got it back on, hope we didn't let you hang too long...FWIW, this comminuity works just fine- if they'd stop changing the webpage designs...

 

[Mr. Toad]

Congrats!

If it came out past the crossmember, it'll go back in past the crossmember.

 

[Erwin]

Just adding a few pics here of my install (which is same as mentioned above). Even when using an alignment tool you might need to release the clutch as shown in last pic. I did not have slave installed, but using a strap worked fine. A gearbox "hoist" can easily be made out of 2 jacks and some wheels. Works fine for diffs also.

 

[1979 FJ40ish]

I know that this is an old thread but having spent two miserable days last week trying to get my transmission mated to the engine I’d like to suggest to anyone contemplating doing this that you make an appointment with your proctologist instead. It will be a lot more fun.

There were several good suggestions in this thread that I found helpful especially the recommendations to remove the rear motor mounts, use long studs to help support and align the transmission and tying back the clutch release lever with a strap.

Once I got the faces of the transmission and bell housing within about a 1 ½ inch of each other I ended up using longer bolts to draw the transmission into position. I was very careful to make sure there wasn’t any binding and only tightened a bolt about 1/8 inch at a time before doing the same to the other three. I also frequently measured the distance between the faces at all four corners throughout the process to keep things aligned.

I can’t begin to tell you how happy and sore I was when those two surfaces finally came together.

Now that it’s done I suspect that a big part of my difficulty may have been caused by having the rear of the transmission raised to high. I hope I never have the opportunity to test this theory.

 

[LR LC200]

Rent a transmission jack. It's the only way to be sure.

Presumably you used a clutch alignment tool as well. Without that you could also be doomed.

Hi All- over last couple w-ends been working at clutch and tranny/t-case seal/gasket replacement. Pulled everything with two floor jacks and truck jacked up, but on the ground (no lift). After reading this wondering if couple of questions: Better to install tranny first then mount T-case? Don’t have another set of hands or tranny jack. If I did rent one, are the low enough to use under jacked vehicle vs. one on a lift?

Thanks to all!

 

[LR LC200]

Hi All- over last couple w-ends been working at clutch and tranny/t-case seal/gasket replacement. Pulled everything with two floor jacks and truck jacked up, but on the ground (no lift). After reading this wondering if couple of questions: Better to install tranny first then mount T-case? Don’t have another set of hands or tranny jack. If I did rent one, are the low enough to use under jacked vehicle vs. one on a lift?

Thanks to all!

View attachment 2089490

Also.... Is the throwing clutch bearing (new) greased in any way? The bearing “mount” thing with the clips that holds clutch fork had lots of grease in the channel inside of it. Not sure what that’s from although I would think you’d want where fork touches this housing at two points to be lubbed. Can you even get to that when all reassembled for regular maintenance?

 

[1911]

Better to install tranny first then mount T-case?

No; you will be far better off to assemble the t-case onto the transmission and install them both as one unit.

Don’t have another set of hands or tranny jack. If I did rent one, are the low enough to use under jacked vehicle vs. one on a lift?

That depends on how much lift your truck has, how big the tires are, and the transmission jack I guess. With 33" tires and a 3" lift, and a Northern Tool transmission jack, mine fit under the truck sitting on the ground, but YMMV.

 

[1911]

Also.... Is the throwing clutch bearing (new) greased in any way?

No. You wouldn't want any grease to get on the clutch plates.

The bearing “mount” thing with the clips that holds clutch fork had lots of grease in the channel inside of it. Not sure what that’s from although I would think you’d want where fork touches this housing at two points to be lubbed. Can you even get to that when all reassembled for regular maintenance?

I don't have my factory service manual handy to look, but I don't remember putting any grease or lube on mine last time I did it. The clutch fork doesn't need any regular maintenance that I know of, as long as the hydraulic system is in good shape and the pedal and master cylinder clevis are adjusted.

 

[LR LC200]

No; you will be far better off to assemble the t-case onto the transmission and install them both as one unit.




That depends on how much lift your truck has, how big the tires are, and the transmission jack I guess. With 33" tires and a 3" lift, and a Northern Tool transmission jack, mine fit under the truck sitting on the ground, but YMMV.

Thanks Much- 33s with Fox lift ~3”. Even if I need to jack it up some, not an issue. Just most of the ones I’ve seen have a long/tall adjustable pedestal....

 

[LR LC200]

No. You wouldn't want any grease to get on the clutch plates.




I don't have my factory service manual handy to look, but I don't remember putting any grease or lube on mine last time I did it. The clutch fork doesn't need any regular maintenance that I know of, as long as the hydraulic system is in good shape and the pedal and master cylinder clevis are adjusted.

Ok Thx- I know you want to keep grease away from friction items, so will still need to look at why there’s grease in throw-out bearing housing (if that’s what it’s called with the fork clips)....?

 

[icorradoi]

So, I just finished reinstalling the H42 trans/transfer back into my 77 FJ40 by myself with a chain winch pulling the assembly up with a chain wrapped around it and a floor jack with a 2X4 supporting it from the bottom. I'm not a small guy, but it definitely put up a good fight! I didn't search before, so once i had it lined up and somewhat close, I made the mistake of using the four mounting bolts to close the gap to the bell housing. From what I'm reading, I should have avoided that. Any way to tell if I did any harm? Should I pull it back out and check anything or send it? I put it in gear and 4wd and spun the flywheel by hand and the front flange turned, so I think it's ok, but want to make sure if there's any way to do that.

 

[1911]

So, I just finished reinstalling the H42 trans/transfer back into my 77 FJ40 by myself with a chain winch pulling the assembly up with a chain wrapped around it and a floor jack with a 2X4 supporting it from the bottom. I'm not a small guy, but it definitely put up a good fight! I didn't search before, so once i had it lined up and somewhat close, I made the mistake of using the four mounting bolts to close the gap to the bell housing. From what I'm reading, I should have avoided that. Any way to tell if I did any harm? Should I pull it back out and check anything or send it? I put it in gear and 4wd and spun the flywheel by hand and the front flange turned, so I think it's ok, but want to make sure if there's any way to do that.

In my experience, once you get the input shaft spudded in the pilot bearing you are good, and can use the mounting bolts to cinch it up.

 

[Bennyboy ATX]

Old thread... But certainly still relevant! I spent an entire day trying to muscle that transmission with tcase up onto the bell housing laying on the shop floor. I got it all the way minus 3/4 inch and it was hitting the bearing. Read this thread and yanked the entire engine and assembled everything on the hoist and dropped the whole thing in through the engine bay. Dropped the motor and reassembled everything and had it running in 4 hours. Wow I can't believe how much easier it is lubing the end of the shaft and using the hoist!

 

[randod]

Pull the e-brake off if it's still on. Loosen, but don't disconnect the rear motor mounts. Pull the front motor mounts and jack up the front of the engine as far as it will go. It will hit on the firewall eventually. This should give you enough clearance at the cross member. 7 hours is tough. Here's a moral support pic:

Thanks for all the posts. Old thread. So thankful for it though.

 

[merbesfield]

Lots of good info here. About to attempt this.