Which method did you use when re-installing (sealing) a differential to the axle housing? (1 Viewer)

What did you use when installing your differential carrier to the axle housing?

  • OEM Gasket Dry

    Votes: 6 22.2%
  • OEM Gasket with gasket dressing (Eg: Permatex High Tack, LOCTITE MR GS2, ---)

    Votes: 5 18.5%
  • Toyota Seal Packing 1281 (Orange FIPG/RTV)

    Votes: 11 40.7%
  • Permatex Ultra Grey RTV

    Votes: 3 11.1%
  • Permatex Gear Oil Gasket Maker RTV

    Votes: 4 14.8%
  • Hondabond (HT or 4) , Yamabond 4

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Loctite 5699 RTV

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • JB Weld High Temp RED ETV

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other Threebond product

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Silk thread with a liquid sealant

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    27

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There's a poll attached to this thread. For the sake of clarity the poll is designed to ask how you actually resealed your differential(s) ie: what FIPG, RTV or gasket was used. Please don't vote if you haven't done the job yourself. However, if either of your differentials have been serviced (taken out, reinstalled) by a mechanic/other person and if the method used to seal it is known (gasket, FIPG, etc) then take the poll.

Once you've indicated which method you used to reseal/reinstall your diff you should then post up details
ie: Rear Diff, flanges cleaned (how), no corrosion or damage found, Bob's Super Balls RTV applied to OEM gasket, 8 years ago, no leaks, ----.

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Wanted to start this thread in order to get the hive mind experience in one place. It's been discussed in a few threads over the years and the general consensus seems to be that the OEM gasket by itself can seal well if the surface is clean and doesn't have corrosion/pitting/damage and if the diff is not subjected to any significant impacts (ie: on road use only). Also that using the gasket by itself may be more prone to leaks particularly in the front differential (80 series) which appears to be more prone to loosening up (compared to the rear diff) when the OEM gasket is used.

Seems like some mechanics and others with experience resealing reinstaling differentials often use RTV instead of the gasket.

Interesting trivia about the Hondabond HT: the packaging lists the Effective Temperature range as 75'F to 600'F, so that makes me wonder if the +75'F isn't a typo?? ie: -75'F seems too low but +75'F seems too high for the bottom end of the useful range?? IDK (checking with Honda, will edit when I get an answer).

One area of disagreement/discussion when using the OEM gasket is whether or not to apply anything over the gasket. Some say a light coating of RTV, some say absolutely do not put RTV over the diff gasket (ie: Permatex and Loctite both advise to not put RTV over a gasket unless just at an edge or corner as is some applications, but not our diffs). And then some sealant manufacturers may say a very light coat of something like High Tack gasket dressing/sealant (sprayed on) is OK.

Many RTV or gasket dressing products say they're resistant to "oil" or "chemicals" but some don't specifically state whether or not they're approved to use with exposure to Hypoid Gear oil with EP additives. IME the only way to find out is to contact the manufacturer of the product, but that is often very difficult ie: Hondabond and Yamabond are both made by ThreeBond and I tried getting that info but haven't heard back yet.

Permatex for example stated (personal communication from their tech dept) that the only Permatex RTV that should be used on a differential or gear box exposed to Hypoid/EP Gear oil is their Gear Oil Gasket Maker, not their Ultra Grey product (the Gear Oil Gasket Maker is a newer product). But then many people have used the Ultra Grey to seal their diffs, so there's that.

How much RTV to apply? If not enough and it may not seal, too much and it may end up (peeling off) inside the differential. And then there's the mess when removing RTV when you next dismount the diff carrier and how to remove the old sealant?? A plain gasket is probably the easiest to clean up.

Photo below shows a few examples of RTV and one gasket dressing (the Versachem Prime Seal product in the white bottle is the exact same product as Permatex Aviation gasket sealer #3, in this application it would only be used as a gasket dressing, not by itself)


RTV Hondabond Yamabond Toyota FIPG (2).jpg




FWIW there's a newish type of gasket made by LubeLocker which has a thin aluminum core covered by a type of rubber gasket material which is itself then coated with lines of sealant; seems like a good design. Unfortunately the company does not offer a gasket to fit our differentials (maybe if more people called the company and requested they add one for the 80 series??).






LubeLocker gasket example.JPG



So just tossing out these questions for discussion. Have fun.
 
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Here's a link to a video comparing a few RTV products. All the tests might not be applicable to how a sealant would perform when used to seal a differential (or any other gear box) but still some interesting results with some good graphs of results IMHO.

 
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Reserved
 
The t-case is filled with the same oil...
 
I installed a rebuilt front third a few days ago. This time I used FIPG only just like on the transfer case. A better way to guaranty nothing in or out through that mating surface I can’t think of.

Grey permatex is good but I’m convinced of Toyota/Aisin’s FIPG superiority.
 
A friend is a master Toyota mechanic who uses FIPG without a gasket. Good enough for me.
 
I did my front third last summer and used Permatex #80016. no leaks so far. I have also used Dynatex Gasket Maker 49200 (given to me by the shop that rebuilt the 3rd) and Toyota Seal Packing 103 with great results. I've never used a gasket on the diff to axle housing. Prep, application and careful installation are more important than the product, IMHO.
 
My front third went back in w/ just a coat of Ultra Black. Had the whole housing out to clean and paint/modify and it’s not full of oil yet. But there were pretty significant risers(where the threads and holes are) on both the housing and the third that I flattened with a file. Rear was the same. Hoping it’ll be back on the road in a month.
 
I've used Ultra Grey in every Land Cruiser I've had. Did my transfer case 8 years ago and no leaks. It's also on both diffs. I also like the orange stuff. It's what my dad used on all of his and I never saw an issue with those either
 
So far 15 votes but only 7 people posted their results. Please choose the product you personally used to seal your differential (carrier to axle housing) ie: the poll isn't meant to be a mulitple choice test what someone might assume is best, the purpose is to see what people used and what worked or what didn't.

So after taking the poll it would help if you could post your experience/results with the product you used and then add comments ie: "I used XXX Super Red Balls RTV to reseal/reinstall my rear diff five years ago, it was a mess working with that stuff, but no leaks so far---" or, "Bob's Gorilla Snot RTV started to set up before I was done applying it to the flange but it was very hot outside that day----"

(Any comments are welcome in the thread of course, the above just refers to those that took the poll).

Thanks to those that have already posted their comments.

ps: I removed my "likes" from the comments, don't want to imply
one method is better than the other (yet), that's the purpose of the thread to collect the data then see what works or not.
 
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I only use the "right stuff" now. I like having it in a can, makes it super easy to apply. I clean both the dropout and the housing good with brake cleaner, run a bead on the housing, and then just use a fingertip to evenly spread it out/around the studs. Seems like the time it takes to crawl back out and get the drop out, it "tacks up" nicely, and then put the dropout in. Just snug four nuts down, and then just work in a star pattern till all are pretty even, then torque right a way. Havent had a leak yet, and have used it countless times. Same with diff covers when I seal them up. A buddy of mine swears by the Yamabond, but I havent personally used it, yet. Just did a re-gear and picked up a new can to the tune of almost $50!!!! Still bought it cause I know I havent had any problems in the past, but damn the price hike!!!
 
OEM gasket with Gasgacinch on all surfaces. Gasgacinch is an adhesive with properties similar to contact cement but it is not "permanent". Been using it for almost 50 years.

Screenshot 2023-04-04 at 16-01-55 Empi Axles_Boots Gasgacinch 4Oz (24 Cans) 00-5124-0 00-5124-...png
 
I use the OEM gasket because I think it helps make up for irregularities in the Mating services
I apply a small amount of black RTV because I don’t want it to leak.
This has worked well for me currently no leaks been a year and a half since it was last apart.
Before I trussed the axle housing nothing would keep the third from come lose.
Gives you a idea of how hard I use my rig.
It’s a street legal hard core trail rig 😉
 
I don't use any gaskets on axles. I use Black RTV on the 3rds, front hubs, and the rear axles.
Figure it'll keep all the water, sand and other crap out and the oil in.
 
I don't use any gaskets on axles. I use Black RTV on the 3rds, front hubs, and the rear axles.
Figure it'll keep all the water, sand and other crap out and the oil in.

Counterpoint to going "commando" and omitting the gasket.

The gasket thickness plays a part in component alignment. Omitting the gasket changes component interface. Not much but it DOES affect it. Does it matter? Maybe.

I'd assert more like probably. Toyota uses liquid sealer in lots of places but not all of them. Therefore gaskets must serve multiple purposes in the cases where they are specified.
 
Counterpoint to going "commando" and omitting the gasket.

The gasket thickness plays a part in component alignment. Omitting the gasket changes component interface. Not much but it DOES affect it. Does it matter? Maybe.

I'd assert more like probably. Toyota uses liquid sealer in lots of places but not all of them. Therefore gaskets must serve multiple purposes in the cases where they are specified.
Counter-counterpoint- when wheeled hard, the front gasket almost invariably gets spit out. That probably messes with the component interface a bit as well. Also, the only components relying on that interface for alignment are the axle shafts, and they can flop around quite a bit with no issue. I'll bet the axle tube regularly flexes in off-road use a lot more than the thickness of the gasket. I know of people who drove their trucks for years with visibly bent axle housings with no issues aside from wheel alignment.

Whoever specced the stud size for the front third member was an idiot. 20 ft/lbs or whatever the torque spec is doesn't cut it, but that's about all those studs can take. RTV's glue properties make up for that.
 
More like 26 pounds but yeah that's not much. The front uses 8mm fasteners and the rear uses 10mm. Sake may have played a roll in fastener selection. :hmm:
 

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