TheBussman

Found the original copper brass one in a storage box! I am going to look at having it re-cored out of town.

need a new complete cyl head, pistons, connection rods, manifolds, injector lines and drill a few holes in the block to get it to match.

What's that old saying...? "If it ain't broke, fix the hell out of it while you're in there and don't forget to change your head gasket"? I'd keep a spare (OEM), but if the one you have is running fine - leave it alone.

reman toyota or denso.

A reman Toyota is only like $130

Mishimoto has been pretty good for me. is your current rad brass/copper? if so you might have it re-cored. pretty sure last 93 surf i had in the shop was copper/brass.

price drop

slightly loose heat sleeve tubing should have better insulating qualities then a tight wrap. The air gap helps with heat.

or use a 1fz lid, and 90 elbow. seems like it would flow more air then a 1HD lid and needs the taller stud. I don't have a 1fz lid so my airbox has 2 used shock bushings on it as a temp setup until i decide what I'm going to do with the airbox.

1HD-FT pump even if it bolts on i wouldn't try to run it on a 1hz. the injector pressures are way higher on a FT. 1hz pump should be cheaper too

Going into my case soon for a gear ratio change. i would love to loose the electric actuator, looking at the diagram about half of the parts in the shifter diagram are different electric to direct shift... if i didn't care about having to move...

So it's definitely doable, but this one got shelved as I got busy with other stuff / got bored and chased the next shiny thing that crossed my field of vision. I plan to go back to it. My main workbench currently looks like this: I did do a...

We're going back 15+ years here. Knowing how I think and what I was trying to do back then I'm fairly certain I left the 1FZ ECU in place and fed a tach signal into the distributor wiring. So whatever wiring was there between the ECU and trans...

thanks, even though the stock one wasn't shifting right behind a cummins you got it to run without error codes? if so what were you feeding the "neo" circuit with? Interested in the megasquirt, everybody I know that's tried one for engine...

I'm quoting from this thread: Haltech Control of the A442f @PIP sounds like you've been here before? are you talking about a stock diesel or gas TCU? I did not hook up either temp signal circuit. From reading the FSM it sounds like ect1 was...

Not yet. I did have one fail in my tundra when it was like 4 years old, fan started getting loud and light was slightly dim. they did replace it right away.

Fluid film that

Cheers

@cambo16 Same here. I currently have LasFit Leds in stock projectors, and it is much better than stock (low bar to beat) but the color temp is around 6k and sometimes feels a little too blue for my liking. Whereas these morimotos are in the 5k...

I have them in my stock 80 headlights with projectors. looks great. Better then any other LED I've used in a projector. I have the 2.0 in my tundra and it's not that great... weird bright spots here and there. love the color temp on these, most...

attempting to use a 1993 gas auto trans module in a diesel swap I've been searching for a module from a diesel truck but no luck so far. So far I've got the TPS signal (va) circuit working using a voltage converter to send 5v to the TPS. there...

upon further research it looks like I can use any 93+ module from diesel 80 series.

sounds good I'll send you a PM

Forgot to mention, I was able to make the original .025" wall NiCopp fuel supply line work. Bending by hand was just not working, so I picked up this Doyle tubing bender from Harbor Freight. With a tape measure, a coat hanger to mimic complex...

decent condition some wear no rips or tears. pretty sure these are from 91-92