Recent content by TheBussman

95+ would actually be preferred so that i can use my 95+ tach also. anybody have a lead? landcruiser heaven says that have several but can't be bothered to find them or give me a price...

i reused the 1fz hard lines. They are alot different then the 1hd lines. I could get the front factory bracket to work with a little bending but that's it. Had to custom make a bracket at the rear of the engine that hangs off one of the oil pan bolts. lines are very close to the starter, not...

no need to worry about the threading. cut off the tube and use a flaring tool to make a bead on tube. the GM style fuel fitting flare tooling works the best but the 1st stage of a double flare or a bubble flare also works fine. it's just a return line with no pressure on it.

doesn't rule out wastegate, drive pressure or boost leaks. Turbo might not be a good fit for your use if everything else checks out.

At first i was thinking Fahrenheit but your probability talking Celsius temperature measurement. you could still go a tough more if its not too smokey. Worth a boost leak and drive pressure test. Check that there is enough preload on the waste-gate or try it completely shut just for a test.

turn up the fuel

did you unplug or ground the coil during the compression test? if not its hard on the coil and can make them fail.

need a new complete cyl head, pistons, connection rods, manifolds, injector lines and drill a few holes in the block to get it to match.

reman toyota or denso.

Mishimoto has been pretty good for me. is your current rad brass/copper? if so you might have it re-cored. pretty sure last 93 surf i had in the shop was copper/brass.

price drop

slightly loose heat sleeve tubing should have better insulating qualities then a tight wrap. The air gap helps with heat.

or use a 1fz lid, and 90 elbow. seems like it would flow more air then a 1HD lid and needs the taller stud. I don't have a 1fz lid so my airbox has 2 used shock bushings on it as a temp setup until i decide what I'm going to do with the airbox.

1HD-FT pump even if it bolts on i wouldn't try to run it on a 1hz. the injector pressures are way higher on a FT. 1hz pump should be cheaper too

Going into my case soon for a gear ratio change. i would love to loose the electric actuator, looking at the diagram about half of the parts in the shifter diagram are different electric to direct shift... if i didn't care about having to move the shifter right and left to get into N Ll do you...