OK. I'm not as smart as a strut. How do the people that know what they're doing compress the strut to get it on the ball?
I didn't take it off the ball. I was able to thread the ball in and tighten it without removing it from the strut.
Zack
60's Hydraulic Arm For Rear Hatch (2 Viewers)
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I didn't take it off the ball. I was able to thread the ball in and tighten it without removing it from the strut.
Zack
I will join the "me too" ranks. Just did this with the Lift Support Depot units on eBay. "Qty (2) Toyota Land Cruiser 1980 To 1989 Liftgate Lift Supports, Tailgate, Hatch" - seller was mrlousstuff
20 minutes and a very old problem has been fixed. The threads are not exact, as previously stated, but they are pretty close. Nice, tight fit and work great.
Not an exact OEM look, but pretty close.
20 minutes and a very old problem has been fixed. The threads are not exact, as previously stated, but they are pretty close. Nice, tight fit and work great.
Not an exact OEM look, but pretty close.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
This is something I am going to have to do soon. It is only getting into the 50s at night and when I go to take the dogs to the park in the morning (around 8 or 9am) the struts are barely holding up the tailgate. Guess I need to add it to the shortlist.
I got the 990# mcmaster carr, and they're a bit long by about 1/2"-3/4". I'm a little nervous about bending the hinge if I stack a bottle jack on some boards to compress the strut. Anyone have suggestions for getting the slightly long mcmaster carrs to fit? Should I return and get another size that fits better?
Just got my 62 a few months back and stumbled across this amazing resource that all of you have assembled. Many thanks are in order already.
Wanted to give another +one more to the Lift Supports Depot (same as Mr. Lou's Stuff on ebay) replacement set. I am lucky enough to live with a 10 minute drive of their warehouse. Super nice people and extremely helpful. I picked up the Strong Arm set as opposed to their branded version. The guy explained that the only difference was the Strong Arm brand was manufactured in the US (South Carolina I believe) and the Lift Supports brand is manufactured in Turkey. Same specs. One other difference is the Strong Arm looks closer to OEM because it has a silver arm as opposed to the black arm on the Lift Supports. Overall, a very easy install.
One other note: The Strong Arm ball replacement wasn't even close to the right thread size, but with a quick trip back they apologized and quickly made it right. For those of you that might not be that close, just double check that they throw in a 4 pack of the correct ball fittings.
Wanted to give another +one more to the Lift Supports Depot (same as Mr. Lou's Stuff on ebay) replacement set. I am lucky enough to live with a 10 minute drive of their warehouse. Super nice people and extremely helpful. I picked up the Strong Arm set as opposed to their branded version. The guy explained that the only difference was the Strong Arm brand was manufactured in the US (South Carolina I believe) and the Lift Supports brand is manufactured in Turkey. Same specs. One other difference is the Strong Arm looks closer to OEM because it has a silver arm as opposed to the black arm on the Lift Supports. Overall, a very easy install.
One other note: The Strong Arm ball replacement wasn't even close to the right thread size, but with a quick trip back they apologized and quickly made it right. For those of you that might not be that close, just double check that they throw in a 4 pack of the correct ball fittings.
Rob Faucett
GOLD Star
Could it be that the struts feel too long because you have one side still holding an original strut?
I had that problem and it vexed me for about two weeks. When I removed both of the originals at the same time it worked perfectly.
I feel like the 90# is right on now that I've used it for a while.
Best
Rob
I had that problem and it vexed me for about two weeks. When I removed both of the originals at the same time it worked perfectly.
I feel like the 90# is right on now that I've used it for a while.
Best
Rob
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
FINALLY bought mine today... Found that Lift Supports Depot is actually on Amazon.com so I was able to use some GCs...
Can you provide a part # for the Strong arm supports? TIA
Good call, and I don't know. I did get the struts in one at a time by compressing it slightly with a bottle jack. I didn't try taking them both out at one time, but that sounds much simpler. I suppose that's why I didn't think of it.Could it be that the struts feel too long because you have one side still holding an original strut?
I had that problem and it vexed me for about two weeks. When I removed both of the originals at the same time it worked perfectly.
I feel like the 90# is right on now that I've used it for a while.
Best
Rob
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
This is the particular one that I purchased, according to their part reference it is #PM2008.
Shipping confirmation says that I will have them by 1/3/14 so I will be able to install either Friday night or Saturday.
Did this yesterday with the lift supports found on amazon, took like 5 minutes! That's probably because I soaked with penetrating oil a month ago and gave up after not being able to budge the old lift ball bolt. Lift supports work great. Lift supports depot is a great place. I used them to replace my camper shell supports just by typing in the old part number in a google search and they had perfect replacement.
Jason at CruiserYard now has new replacement struts for $29.50. Got some waiting to go on later today.
http://www.cruiseryard.com/60-series-set-of-brand-new-upper-hatch-supports-shocks/
http://www.cruiseryard.com/60-series-set-of-brand-new-upper-hatch-supports-shocks/
I just installed the $25 dollar, brand new struts from CruiserYard. Awesome. My old strut mounting posts came out easy as I had replaced the originals with new-old original struts. Plus my s*** is like rust free and stuff 
The new mounting posts that come with the struts take a 13mm wrench as opposed to the 12mm for the OE. The struts have the little clip dealie at both ends, and just snap on, making installation and removal rather easy. They function great, crack the upper hatch 3 or 4 inches and the struts take over from there, all the way up.
The new mounting posts that come with the struts take a 13mm wrench as opposed to the 12mm for the OE. The struts have the little clip dealie at both ends, and just snap on, making installation and removal rather easy. They function great, crack the upper hatch 3 or 4 inches and the struts take over from there, all the way up.
Yeah,
1: remove the old ball studs
2: replace with new ball studs and washers provided
3: snap new struts on (same orientation)
4: Go have a beer.
It was simple, the retainer clips just push back on their own when pressure is applied and drop back into place once the ball is in position.
I bought/installed the Cruiseryard struts and am happy with them. They clear my head easily (I'm just under 6') and have plenty of lift. The price was very 'right' compared to most other options out there. Simple installation, too.
And FWIW - when installing the mounting posts/balls, use some thread sealant. The OE ones come with that green sealant on the threads cuz those posts are right in the water channel for the rear hatch ... Just sayin'. Rust happens.
