What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (29 Viewers)

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alexinWC said:
Tried to reindex my t-bars but failed due to a seized adjustment bolt on the passenger side

Replaced my 2 12" subs with a sole 12" sub

Disconnected factory woofers in the trunk and took out the 3rd row seat belts
Click to expand...

Have you had that bolt all the way out before? If so, it's very easy to cross thread it on the way back in. You'll probably need to replace that bolt and the arm.
Some guys on here have sheared that bolt off trying to turn it after its been cross threaded! I'm guessing you'd really need to crank on that before it broke.
 
alexinWC said:
Tried to reindex my t-bars but failed due to a seized adjustment bolt on the passenger side

Replaced my 2 12" subs with a sole 12" sub

Disconnected factory woofers in the trunk and took out the 3rd row seat belts
Click to expand...

Order all replacement parts before hand. At the time of my mishap. It took 9 days to get the parts.
 
Drove back to Seattle from Newfoundland. Got a P0155 CEL a day after arriving. Mounted my Scangauge and replaced all four O2 sensors.
P7221139 (Large).jpg
P8181352 (Large).jpg
 
paflytyer said:
Have you had that bolt all the way out before? If so, it's very easy to cross thread it on the way back in. You'll probably need to replace that bolt and the arm.
Some guys on here have sheared that bolt off trying to turn it after its been cross threaded! I'm guessing you'd really need to crank on that before it broke.
Click to expand...

I've never had the bolt out and had previously adjusted the t-bars before without problem so the seized bolt caught me off guard. The drivers side finished without issue but, after a few turns on the passenger side, my bro-in-law and I couldn't get it to budge. We tried PB blaster, flame, breaker bars, and dead blow hammers and it wouldn't budge.

2000UZJ said:
Order all replacement parts before hand. At the time of my mishap. It took 9 days to get the parts.
Click to expand...

Wow 9 days? That must have been tough to be cruiserless for that long. I'm glad we didn't risk it then; at one point we were double teaming a 36" breaker bar but backed off in fear of breaking the bolt. Having a downtime of 9 days sure would make it tough to get to work, although it sure would be nice to be out of the office for a little while. Hm...

I'll either put in a parts order or a call to Gary at Mudrak this next week. In the meantime, I'll be repping the stinkbug
 
Today I installed new spark plugs and replaced the original starter and intake manifold gaskets. 5hrs total including iced tea break, beer break, talking to neighbors break, changing oil on BMW break.

*Took the front wheels off to lower it to near touching the ground for better access. Raising the hood, and using the front tires as step stools really helped.
image-2156635261.jpg
 
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Another productive Saturday, with more to come tomorrow.

  • Installed custom battery tray and Sears Die Hard Marine Platinum 31M battery.
  • Trimmed splash guard, beat down pinch weld, and painted with Rustoleum to stop rubbing with 35's in the front.
  • Completed electronic surgery on my factory navigation to fix bad solder on two pins, now works perfect. Before it cut in and out regularly.
  • Disassembled the center console and cleaned each piece with Simple Green. There was 2 years of spilled drinks, offroad dirt and dust, and crud in there.
  • Moved iPod integration cable in anticipation of new Pro Clip iPhone mount arriving on Tuesday.
  • Remove and reinstalled ScanGuage on steering column, the velcro sticky back after two years in the sun had given up.
  • Installed new custom alum transmission and transfer case shifter knobs.

So much left to do, sucks when you neglect maintenance and let projects stack up for almost two years...

I got these well over a year ago from someone here on MUD that is a machinist in Canada. I think the company name was Ellis Precision, forget his MUD handle.

IMG_1120.jpg


splash guard trimmed and pinch weld beaten down with a BFG. Gained approx 1.5 of critical clearance behind the front tire. It rubbed prior.

IMG_1110.jpg


Sanded the area beaten and then applied a coat of Rustoluem to keep any rust at a minimum.

IMG_1111.jpg
 
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KlausVanWinkle, Your neighbors must love you. :ban::)
 
Finally de-chromed my LX, replacing the original emblems with Black Pearl, and applying Plasti-Dip to both front and back chrome trim.

Result was a significant increase in horsepower.

Now, I am waiting for parts to start a brake and CV boot repair on the front end.
 
^^Hard to tell..... is that a Jeep in that pic?
 
Yeah that's a jeep behind me, it was a club run. Apparently I was "the kid in the Toyota" on the cb. Rain storm turned the last 2 miles of an easy 100 mile trail into a washed out mess. Need to repair a slightly crunched fender and track down a spreading oil slick in my garage.
 
Anthony.L said:
Another productive Saturday, with more to come tomorrow.

  • Installed custom battery tray and Sears Die Hard Marine Platinum 31M battery.
  • Trimmed splash guard, beat down pinch weld, and painted with Rustoleum to stop rubbing with 35's in the front.
  • Completed electronic surgery on my factory navigation to fix bad solder on two pins, now works perfect. Before it cut in and out regularly.
  • Disassembled the center console and cleaned each piece with Simple Green. There was 2 years of spilled drinks, offroad dirt and dust, and crud in there.
  • Moved iPod integration cable in anticipation of new Pro Clip iPhone mount arriving on Tuesday.
  • Remove and reinstalled ScanGuage on steering column, the velcro sticky back after two years in the sun had given up.
  • Installed new custom alum transmission and transfer case shifter knobs.
So much left to do, sucks when you neglect maintenance and let projects stack up for almost two years...

I got these well over a year ago from someone here on MUD that is a machinist in Canada. I think the company name was Ellis Precision, forget his MUD handle.



splash guard trimmed and pinch weld beaten down with a BFG. Gained approx 1.5 of critical clearance behind the front tire. It rubbed prior.



Sanded the area beaten and then applied a coat of Rustoluem to keep any rust at a minimum.

Click to expand...
Pull the fender liner out at the bottom and you will not believe how much dirt, leaves, sand etc. might have accumulated behind them. Great place for rust to start.

Must have been a gallon of rotten crud behind them.
 
Rotated my tires, while doing so I took a wire brush attachment inserted into my drill and cleaned up the hubs real good. Then applied some Black flat Rustoleum so the hub capless wheels don't look so goofy.
 
I revamped my aux power circuit to my Pioneer Nav head unit. With a flick of a rocker switch my head unit, amplifier and ham radio power up without a key. That function also transfers the power source form the main battery to the Aux battery. Additionally it triggers the illumination in the Pioneer to night mode - this way when your sitting in the cab listening to the system the bright daytime screen doesn't blow your eyeballs out at night. I've had a another rocker switch since day one to override the illumination (night) mode on unit - so the function is selectable at this point. How many times have you kicked on your lights in daytime fog (or just for safety) and the navi goes night mode dim so you can't see it?

One last benefit to the power switch is that when I stop for short periods I can flick it on and when I restart the truck the navi doesn't reboot.

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