What Beowulf said. Some high heat tape does the trick if you are still keeping the EGR system involved.
this sounds interesting. I will consult the search engine for more info...... Cats are gone, who needs EGR anyway......?
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What Beowulf said. Some high heat tape does the trick if you are still keeping the EGR system involved.
if you delete the EGR system, then do it properly and fool the ECU into thinking that you still have it. Otherwise, that pesky CEL will be on all the time! Same thing applies to the cat deletion as well.
As far as deleting the EGR system, I was thinking, would it be a good idea to simply prevent the hot air from #6 going around the back of #6 cyl? When you look at the exh manifold, you'll see that there's a way to weld that hole shut so that no hot exh gas can enter the tiny passageway behind #6 cyl. This way, no more heat is heating up the #6 jacket. If you were to simply build a EGR blocking plate and place in the place of the EGR pipe, you still have the hot exh gas trapped in that area and that concerns me over a long term.
Just some food for thought!
This is just an opinion to no one in particular: if your HG goes, chances are your mileage is pretty high and you have plenty of leaks (oil pans, front/rear seals, etc). With this in mind, i feel that it's simply easier to pull the entire engine out of the 80 and do all work on an engine stand and then stab the complete long block (along with the ECU harness) back in.
When working on the oil pans, laying under the vehicle is just a royal PITA. And, it's a shame to replace all seals EXCEPT the rear seal. When the engine is on the stand, it's SO nice take your time and work at a leisurely pace while not killing your back!
Anyway, just .02 cents, take it for what it's worth.
For me, climbing over that ARB bumper and balancing on the radiator support 150 times was a bigger pain in the ass. (or knee)
No, no, no, you simply move into the engine bay for this type of work (as shown by my helper below)....
I wish I had this thread while I was doing my HG! I had to figure this out by just using a Hane's manuel. And I wish I had replaced the timing chain and guides cause now my valves are bent 3000 mi after all this work.
Great thread! I have found it very informative as I am tackling the HG repair as we speak.
Quick question for Shipwreck:
When you removed the Engine Harness, there are 2 connectors right near the starter that the FSM calls Transmission Connectors. The larger one has me beat so far...did you have to do anything special to disconnect it? All the others so far have been a squeeze with a bit of finger force on a single tab that releases the lock...but I cannot get this one to budge. It also doesn't help that there is very little clearance for my hands.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Craig
Thanks for the pliers tip. I will go grab a pair of these. My fingers are just not cutting it in these incredibly tight spots. I was ready to give up and instead start disconnecting the harness from the ECU side like some others have done.
I was also making sure there wasn't some other sort of locking device besides the standard single squeeze tab. From your response, it looks like a standard type of lock. Sound right?
-Craig
Great thread! I have found it very informative as I am tackling the HG repair as we speak.
Quick question for Shipwreck:
When you removed the Engine Harness, there are 2 connectors right near the starter that the FSM calls Transmission Connectors. The larger one has me beat so far...did you have to do anything special to disconnect it? All the others so far have been a squeeze with a bit of finger force on a single tab that releases the lock...but I cannot get this one to budge. It also doesn't help that there is very little clearance for my hands.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Craig
I'm a little confused by your post. You ARE trying to remove the harness from the ECU and pull it through the firewall, right? If not, I don't know what you're trying to do. ...snip...
Well I started removing the harness per the FSM by unplugging everything back through to the O2 sensors and pulling the harnes back up through the lower manifold. Where I got stuck was on the transmission connectors that I have yet to be able to remove.
My thought was to change gears and instead tackle the harness from the other end (ECU end) if I get too frustrated with removing the harnes the FSM way. In that case, I would remove the connectors from the ECU and do just as you did through the grommet and fish the harnes back through from the top of the lower intake manifold.
Crap, I just realized...sorry OP, I hope I am not hijacking this thread too much.