Hidden kill switch ideas (1 Viewer)

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iaintscared1969 said:
SORRY:rolleyes: But look at the bright side, You got 15 seconds more than you had before. So let's review...

Paranoid someone is going to steal the truck

Want to hide a kill switch

Lock the pedals

But if they really want the truck and have been watching it...

The will borrow there buddies repo rig and just take it!! They do it here in DFW. Of all the times my stuff has been broken into all they went after was the radio and they didn't get that! BASTARDS:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I get that. If they want it bad enough, they'll find a way to get it. But for the guys who don't have a flat bed to drag it up onto.....I'm going to make them work for it best I can.



William
 
Anyone used the 12voltguy theft switch posted above?
Thinking about one for the 60.
Any real life experience would be great..seems like cheep insurence
 
Yeah one concern is the length of the wire they sell, I don't want it in the glove box and i wish they had a better picture of the switch and another components. I might call or send the an email.
 
Just to pour a little diesel on the fire this thread is building up to...

On Dec 30th someone slim-jimmed a whole bunch of vehicles in my area and tried to steal my HJ61 (VX - Fully loaded... lockers, PTO, suspension seats etc).

For years I have thought about hidden switches, but now I am re-thinking it all. I firmly believe you need to have at least two circuits disabled to be effective. Most thieves are opportunistic - if it's taking too long, they will move on to the next victim.

In the mean time I have repaired the damaged column and put in some metal plates to prevent the front doors from being slim-jimmed.

I will be putting in some automatically operating kill switches in the very near future... in the mean time, I am keeping a full clip on the night table and a scoped thunder stick behind the closet door.

I won't be discussing where I am putting the disablers or what they are, but they should be quite effective (until it gets towed away...)


~john
 
10 Easy steps to Theift proof your vehicle.

So the real answer is simple then... (10ish easy steps)

1) Install two solenoids on your starter.
2) Install a double throw switch in the line from your key that triggers the solenoid (the crank position)
3) install a 2nd battery (can be very small - motorcycle or something)
4) wire the 2nd solenoid to the 2nd battery
5) DONT charge the 2nd battery.
5a) Install a pushbutton switch on the dash that says "Battery Boost" which is really connected to a hidden camera aimed at the drivers position, as well as a camera mounted in the back of the truck aimed through the front window. These are connected to a DVR, so you can post the videos on YouTube later.
6) leave your transfer case shifter in neutral
7) Install electric locking hubs on your rear axle, powered through a normally open relay.
8) Install a normally closed fuel solenoid, or wire to the EDIC, or normally open relay for the oil pressure switch on a diesel
9)Install a greeting card (you know the ones that sing songs), with a pre-recorded message (with Nelson voice from the simpsons) "Haw Haw - you're not smart enough to steal this truck" this plays through a loudspeaker to the outside world.

Theif gets in (you left the switch in the "dead battery" position)
Theif bypasses the ignition, engine won't crank or cranks slowly and stops. Theif pushes the "battery boost" button but it doesn't work. This switch also plays the greeting card. (and you have a picture of them now) Theif grabs their jump pack but they are jumping a good battery so it won't do them any good, as they are still cranking off the dead battery.

Theif (A) gives up and goes on to an easier target. or (B) decides to bump start. Transfer case is in neutral so the wheel motion won't transfer to the flywheel. Theif figures out transfer case, attempts another bump start, but all hubs are unlocked so again it won't bump start. Greeting card plays again. Theif (C) gives up and goes on to an easier target because he has already been here for 10 minutes or (D) figures out your bypass switch and cranks the engine over, but the fuel solenoid or EDIC does not allow any fuel to get to the engine. Greeting card plays (or the oil pressure causes the engine to stall each time it starts) Greeting card plays :bang:(E) Theif gives up because it is taking too long and they are now afraid you will show up.

Theif comes back a while later with a pickup with a stinger on it - what can you do in 3 seconds?

10) wire plastic explosives to your U'bolts & steering linkage & Front tires. Rig the explosives to a pressure switch which is sensitive to the motion of the front shocks. When the stinger grabs the front wheels and lifts, the plastic explosives detonate, releasing the entire front axle to the stinger. The truck pulls away with only the front axle in the stinger. (slip joint on the driveshaft will seperate) Since the tires were blown as well, the front axle should fall out of the stinger just infront of the truck. Attach some bottle rockets and noisemaker fireworks to the leaf springs on your truck. When the plastic explosives go off it should light up the bottle rockets/noise makers (and the greeting card) Bottle rockets then fire off towards the vehicle attempting to get away from the scene of the crime. (attach greeting card to bottle rocket, inside greeting card write "HAW HAW FxxxER - I WIN!!).

Wouldn't that be worth the time it would take to replace a few U-bolts, steering links and tires? (you could probably sell the video!)




Alternatively, you could leave very simple instructions on how to start your vehicle (with none of the above installed). Don't lock your doors. Install a large inverter (3kW or so), switched on/off through a seperate hidden switch of your choice. The inverter takes your batteries 12V to 240VAC. Run some foil tape in two sections on the back side of your steering wheel. (left side and right side) Run one half of each side of the 240V output to each side of your steering wheel, and dont EVER, EVER, EVER forget about it yourslef. 240V from hand to hand will stop your heart, possibly explode it, and give you some NASTY burns. :hmm:
 
- On a more serious note - and to get you guys more paranoid I'll share with you a short story. (I know, it's not chat - I'll throw a tech in somewhere)

Before I owned any of my cruisers, a co-worker showed up one day in a VERY nice - frame offed 40. It was amazing, and it made me deepen my search to find a 40 for myself. I will always remember that cruiser as it was the nicest I have ever seen (in person)

A few months ago (maybe early November) on a Monday I was talking to the co-worker - asked him how his weekend was. "Oh.. did I tell you about my buddy's Cruiser?"

Apparently, the two of them were sitting inside playing cards at the dining room table. They heard a vehicle start up in the driveway. Now we all know exactly the sound that our cruisers make when they are started. It's like a child crying for you. For a split second they glanced at each other, looked at the table and saw the keys for the cruiser sitting there. They both jumped up and ran outside.

Luckily a few things were helping them. The cruiser had a manual choke, and the theif had no idea how to operate it - so he kept stalling. They were chasing on foot yelling at him. He took off down the street, sput..putt. puttering and they were able to keep up with him on foot as he was having a lot of difficulty (and probably s***ting himself as there were two guys chasing him). Apparently this distracted him as he hit a car or two, resulting in the 40 no longer being driveable. (pushed the front axle back into the fender. By the time he realized he was screwed, they had completely caught up to him. The theif was about to open his door and get out to run when a face appeared outside the drivers door, looking very pissed off and yelling many obsenities at him. Freaking out, he attempted to bolt out the passenger door where another angry face met him.

In his attempt at going over to the passenger side, the owner opened the drivers door and yanked him out and threw him on the ground.

Apparently, the theif picked a very poor spot to crash, as it was infront of his house, and his girlfriend was now yelling at him, (as well as yelling at the other two not to hurt him!) SHE phoned 911 as she wanted the cops there because she thought they were going to kill him (they did want to but kept their smarts)

Long story short. They got VERY lucky. They caught the guy, they didn't have to call the cops as they were already on the way, they got the truck, Insurance gave a pretty decent payout, and he bought the truck back from them and has the stuff to fix it!

So as for the tech portion of this post...

DON'T LEAVE YOUR FUEL DOOR KEY IN THE ASH TRAY WITH YOUR COINS! - IT WILL LIKELY OPERATE THE IGNITION IN A PINCH!

(apparently the theif had not planned on stealing the vehicle, he was just looking for CD's, jewelry, change etc - but when he found the key he said he had to try it)
 
S&S1stCruzer said:
Yeah one concern is the length of the wire they sell, I don't want it in the glove box and i wish they had a better picture of the switch and another components. I might call or send the an email.
Click to expand...

I'll get some better pics for you guys.

I can custom make any cable length you want/need.

Also feel free to email for a free sgeet on a simple stand alone starter kill, it's just 2 relays and a momentary push button.

turn key, no start, push button once and now key works, resets after key turned off, just hide button anywhere, or use the radios amp or power ant output as the trigger, car won't start untill you turn on radio:zilla:

the idea is to get the theif to steal the next car, not yours.

any slick one os a hidden on/off switch from horn to brake light switch, horn blows when brakes are pushed:flipoff2:
 
Sorry for late reply

I just sold 2 of these kits so I took new pics
I usually use a bit thinner adhesive shrink tube but ran out so pic shows the triple heat shrink tube with built in adhesive, it melts out sealing the connection when heat shrunk:grinpimp:

includes
8 foot of 4 ga cable
big switch with 2 keys
cable end boots
1 o-ring sealed on/off toggle switch, use to cut ignition or fuel pump relay power, I suggest you do more then just the theft kit cutting power to starter motor.

I like to use these big switches on the negative battery cable, this way it cuts all power, but to keep your computer happy and radio pre-sets + clock install a 5 amp fuse from battery negative to ground.

this keeps battery connected, and even if a thief has your keys, the small 5amp fuse will blow as soon as he trys to start the rig as the starter will draw 100-300amps...........theif will likely think this car/truck has problems, after all the dash had lights a second ago, or the door chime was just working:hillbilly:

The idea is to at least do something to prevent thef, make the next guys car easier to steal then yours:grinpimp:
resize.jpg
 
12voltguy said:
Sorry for late reply

I just sold 2 of these kits so I took new pics
I usually use a bit thinner adhesive shrink tube but ran out so pic shows the triple heat shrink tube with built in adhesive, it melts out sealing the connection when heat shrunk:grinpimp:

includes
8 foot of 4 ga cable
big switch with 2 keys
cable end boots
1 o-ring sealed on/off toggle switch, use to cut ignition or fuel pump relay power, I suggest you do more then just the theft kit cutting power to starter motor.

I like to use these big switches on the negative battery cable, this way it cuts all power, but to keep your computer happy and radio pre-sets + clock install a 5 amp fuse from battery negative to ground.

this keeps battery connected, and even if a thief has your keys, the small 5amp fuse will blow as soon as he trys to start the rig as the starter will draw 100-300amps...........theif will likely think this car/truck has problems, after all the dash had lights a second ago, or the door chime was just working:hillbilly:

The idea is to at least do something to prevent thef, make the next guys car easier to steal then yours:grinpimp:
Click to expand...

So with this setup you need a to use a Key (those red butterfly looking things) to turn on or off the circuit/switch as opposed just a toggle switch or something like that?

Can the cable/wire come in black instead of red? (trying to keep it less obvious)
 
S&S1stCruzer said:
So with this setup you need a to use a Key (those red butterfly looking things) to turn on or off the circuit/switch as opposed just a toggle switch or something like that?

Can the cable/wire come in black instead of red? (trying to keep it less obvious)
Click to expand...

yes, the big switch is a plunger type, push in key & turn.

I do not have black, but I have plenty of heat shrink tube that I can cover entire cable with at no extra charge, just note that when you order:grinpimp:

custom size cable is no problem, longer will cost a bit more $2 a foot, I buy this in 250' spools and the price just goes up every few months like gas, but never drops down.......:mad:
 
Ages ago, my friend had an old Ford Taurus that we put a kill switch in. It was hidden in the seat trim--basically he could just reach down the side of the seat to flip it, without it being obvious what he was doing to anyone watching. It was damn hard to find though.
 
Hey 12voltguy! Quick question: How long would the cable on your kill switch need to be in order to mount it inside of a Tuffy center console? :hmm:
 
There are two things you do not mess with... another man's woman and his truck
 
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