Hidden kill switch ideas

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What about cut the shifter right above the rubber boot and tap a hole and thread the end of the shifter. Then when you park take the shifter with you. :)
 
easiet is to cut the wire to the coil(at or close to the coil), then run wire back to cab, flip switch to kill or run, very simple.

ign wire = ignition wire. This concept is to find the wire that goes from the iginition switch to the starter and cut this wire and install another switch that is either hidden or secured (in a locking center console).
 
easiet is to cut the wire to the coil(at or close to the coil), then run wire back to cab, flip switch to kill or run, very simple.

Does it matter which wire you cut?

If you cut the wire to the starter solenoid, then the engine won't crank, but you could push start it.

If you cut the wire to the distributor, the engine won't run, but you could use the starter motor to move the vehicle.

Use a double pole switch and you could kill them both.

Both of these kill methods can be easily bypassed with about six feet of wire assuming you can get the hood open. Should a hood lock be part of the anti-theft bag-o-tricks?
 
What about wiring in the switch for the glove box light? So the glove box door has to be open to start it. What thief is going to think the glove box door has to be open? Instead they'll look for a switch that isnt there. Plus its a simple thing to do instead of reaching your hand up around behind the dash.
 
I know of a guy that has a simple ball valve installed in his fuel line on his muscle car. The ball valve is installed in the fender well and I never would have found it if he hadn't shown me where it was. When you switch it on and off it just looks like you're checking the tire.
 
good point by roscofj73 if someone is watchin you leave the car you dont want to make the kill switch obvious. put it near where you keep something like your wallet or glasses case etc.

or if you put it under the hood do a double kill switch, make one obvious and the other a little harder to find, hopefully they give up after it doesnt work after flicking the first one.

or install one of those codelocks like in the movies, make it look like it needs a pin, run some wires somewhere so it looks like it does something just to bluff em.
 
I get it all the time and I have the same exact feelings. I'm just glad Im not alone
I agree my 60s have been getting a lot of attention too. I almost don't go anywhere now without getting questions about any of them. I have a stock. A rock star. And my project/expedition car. I call it TRX1 for "Total Recon Xtreme" My boys love it. And I have dumped a boat load of cash into it.... The electronics alone are worth more than the car (when I bought it). I want to drive it across (circum) Australia. I ended up deciding on an Ungo ProSecurity but it is crazy complicated to set that up. It's a 2-way system that can tell you anything about the vehicle via a small LCD display remote. I know..... It is way overkill.

For my other 60s. I use a magnet operated switched system. It's cool because it can be external or internal and mounted virtually anywhere. The choices of shut offs include coil, starter (via relay), or even lights. Hell, once for fun I put a system in that required three rubberized magnets in various places just to operated a ride.

Hope my thoughts help......
 
I agree...

I get it all the time and I have the same exact feelings. I'm just glad Im not alone
I agree my 60s have been getting a lot of attention too. I almost don't go anywhere now without getting questions about any of them. I have a stock. A rock star. And my project/expedition car. I call it TRX1 for "Total Recon Xtreme" My boys love it. And I have dumped a boat load of cash into it.... The electronics alone are worth more than the car (when I bought it). I want to drive it across (circum) Australia. I ended up deciding on an Ungo ProSecurity but it is crazy complicated to set that up. It's a 2-way system that can tell you anything about the vehicle via a small LCD display remote. I know..... It is way overkill.

For my other 60s. I use a magnet operated switched system. It's cool because it can be external or internal and mounted virtually anywhere. The choices of shut offs include coil, starter (via relay), or even lights. Hell, once for fun I put a system in that required three rubberized magnets in various places just to operated a ride.

Hope my thoughts help......
 
HOW BOUT THOSE STEERING WHEELS THAT YOU UNLOCK AND TAKE WITH YOU? FUNNY BUT WELL... WOULD IT WORK? I HAVE NOT SEEN MUCH OF THOSE AROUND... oH AND if you got like a 12 inch lift w/tinted windows, that helps... LOL the thought of the okward positions they got to be in to steal your 60 will make them think twice.
 
one very important thing I can say is make the switch easy to use. If it is a difficult or hard to get switch you will stop using it on a regular basis. Cars get stolen even at simple stops where you think it's safe. SO the switch needs to be easy every time.

Another idea for switch is to have like a ipod jack or something like that. Then you carry the portion that plugs in and makes the circuit.

I'm going to get the shift locker... and my alarm/door lock system has a kill.

Most likely there will be one more switch in a goofy spot to cut off my oil pressure cut off to my EDIC(electronic diesel injection control).

If a thief tries to start your FJ and is just cranking and cranking he will realize a switch is there. SO make it very well hidden. Two switches is good. Better than a double pole. Cut the starter solenoid wires and put them to a switch.

One method listed above would slow a thief too. Have a push button that needs to be help while you turn the key. Make the push button an old stlye highbeem light switch on the floor......

You could put all kinds of switches in place. More the better. One loop from the coil could have 2 plus switches.
 
What you need is 2 switches one that has a label "push to start" that triggers the alarm and the other one hidden that actually stops the car from starting. First the thief would try to crank it over and nothing would happen. Then they would see the button, push it and run away because of the alarm. You could also install a hidden camera triggered by the same button. So when he presses it you can get video to catch the punk.
 
This is something I definately would like to do. You don't hear too much about car theft around my area, but something this simple would sure give some extra piece of mind, especially if i have to leave my rig someplace that isn't quite so safe. I had a chev pickup that had a starter relay button tucked inside the E-brake pedal. That seemed to work pretty well for that rig, though I think in the 62 I will just kill the ignition circuit.
 
I'm getting paranoid here. The water guy shows up at the house, and the first words out of his mouth as he walks up the drive way..."NICE TRUCK!". Then I go to Pep Boys to check their Club selection and I've got two different people looking at my rig in the parking lot...WTF!!!! AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!:eek:

With all this attention I've decided to build the arsenal. I've set up a four prong attack:

1.) VISUAL DETERRENT: I picked up one of those club like locks that locks down the clutch pedal (or brake) so that it can't be used. It's heavy duty and would be a tough one to get through and it's highly visible...esp if you use the steering wheel cover that is bright yellow with red lettering spelling out what is being used.

2.) TOP SECRET: I will say it's a shut down with load auditory signal. Hidden.

3.) TOP SECRET: It's a killer of two systems. Hidden and locked.

4.) SUPER TOP SECRET: Only engages if the other three systems are compromised. All I can tell you is that it has a blast radius of three square city blocks. If I can't have it...neither can you!!!:flipoff2:


;)

William

PS: I'm liking that shift lock as well.
 
Since we are on the subject of locks... I can break any 200 series or Master lock with a good crescent wrench and a big screwdriver..Takes about 15 seconds. Just FYI for those of you thinking of going the route of a pedal lock.:grinpimp: Like I have said, If it won't fire it won't move. Unless you are a diesel then you better install an electric shut off solenoid in line with the injector pump.

Any one had a buddy try to start the trucks after the kill switches were installed to see if they work?
 
Since we are on the subject of locks... I can break any 200 series or Master lock with a good crescent wrench and a big screwdriver..Takes about 15 seconds. Just FYI for those of you thinking of going the route of a pedal lock.:grinpimp: Like I have said, If it won't fire it won't move. Unless you are a diesel then you better install an electric shut off solenoid in line with the injector pump.

Any one had a buddy try to start the trucks after the kill switches were installed to see if they work?


catastrophic_failure.PNG


Now you tell me!!!!:eek:



William:D
 
SORRY:rolleyes: But look at the bright side, You got 15 seconds more than you had before. So let's review...

Paranoid someone is going to steal the truck

Want to hide a kill switch

Lock the pedals

But if they really want the truck and have been watching it...

The will borrow there buddies repo rig and just take it!! They do it here in DFW. Of all the times my stuff has been broken into all they went after was the radio and they didn't get that! BASTARDS:flipoff2:
 
Why is everyone always talking about how many people look at their cruisers? I hardly get any rubberneckers while I'm driving and yet to get anyone looking in a parking lot. I've gotten 1 or 2 waves from noncruisers and a few 40s exchange "the cruiser wave" but besides that I get nothing.:confused:
 

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