Brake Rotor Suggestions for Mountain Living & Commuting in a Heavy 80 (3 Viewers)

[bonestock]

Looking for advice on rotor/pad selection. I run through front rotors pretty quickly. The Mountain I live on is small by comparison @ 2200 feet. I commute daily, sometimes multiple times per day, up and down this beauty and I seem to consistently get warped front rotors resulting in a shaking that starts off as annoying and moves to dangerous if I don't get them replaced or on a lathe. Currently, I am using O'Reilly (Brake Best) rotors and 100 series pads up front. The rears do not seem to be an issue.

I searched and searched and read lots of threads suggesting lots of different brands but none that specifically addresses sustained braking on a daily basis. I'm cool to keep swapping cheap rotors and pads but would like to spend my time more efficiently while also not breaking the bank.

Thanks in advance. PFA of the rig in question.

 

[voodu3]

I’ve had the best service out of Toyota stock pads and rotors. I tried several different aftermarket and parts store ones and the oems work the best for me. I have the same type of driving just on the other side of town.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I use Power Stop pads up front PN 16-502. The bite is really good and dust free.

 

[bonestock]

I’ve had the best service out of Toyota stock pads and rotors. I tried several different aftermarket and parts store ones and the oems work the best for me. I have the same type of driving just on the other side of town.

Wade, do you use 100 series pads or 80 up front? Also, you daily drive yours?

 

[rhc404]

Sometimes it's pad deposits that cause them to feel warped. I'd start with OEM pads as mentioned above if you're not already there. Try not to be on the brake pedal when at a standstill after especially hard/long stops so the rotors don't cook the pads onto one spot.

LSPV sorted? Sounds like your rear brakes have some capacity that can be tapped.

 

[bonestock]

Sometimes it's pad deposits that cause them to feel warped. I'd start with OEM pads as mentioned above if you're not already there. Try not to be on the brake pedal when at a standstill after especially hard/long stops so the rotors don't cook the pads onto one spot.

LSPV sorted? Sounds like your rear brakes have some capacity that can be tapped.

The LSPV has been adjusted to its max since my lift. I would like to delete it and the ABS in its entirety...Just need to find the time and friends to help with step # 6.

 

[jpoole]

You disengaging overdrive and/or using 2nd gear to reduce braking? The run down from Lookout is going to be really hard on brakes if you don't use the drivetrain to help keep speed under control in my experience. Our hills are small in N. Chatt but I typically downshift for both the ups and downs when they are steeper.

 

[bonestock]

For sure on the 2nd gear. Even when the brakes are fresh I try not to use them. This has been an ongoing battle since I started driving.

 

[Lextronix]

I am rocking the Powerstop pads and rotors. I think they stop pretty well and no brake dust is a plus. Its hard to judge longevity since my truck is mainly a weekend warrior and I do quite a bit of active shifting so the 5.29s are doing a lot of work for me on mountain roads.

 

[bonestock]

Thanks, Lex!

 

[LandLocked93]

If you've had rotor warp issues since you "started driving" ... are we sure we've looked at every conceivable variable? lol

 

[SmokingRocks]

holding brakes on when stopped, especially after getting the brakes nice and hot, is a sure-fire way to "warp" your brakes

Stock brakes rotors & pads with a complete bleed do just fine locking up my 35's. And there's enough environmental and mechanical drag that I don't need to even touch my brakes coming down the I-70 passes, if anything I drop it down to 3rd gear. If I did have to use my brakes I would do so in short more vigorous periods rather than continuously lightly dragging them down the whole hill.

 

[Broski]

I use Power Stop pads up front PN 16-502. The bite is really good and dust free.

^^^ this I use them too

 

[bonestock]

I've elected to go with OEM rotors, pads and calipers up front. Surely goodness will follow me...

 

[OffRoadScott]

Can’t go wrong with OEM.

 

[calokie]

I'm going with new Toyota Rotors, all new Toyota soft lines (all 7) new rear calipers and akebono pads Hope to have everything installed soon so I can report back. Possible ABS and load sensor delete

 

[jonheld]

OEM rotors and stock 80 Series OEM pads for the win.
That said, it's only part of the equation. Brakes are a system, not just a bunch of parts. Soft lines weaken over time, and calipers need to be serviced. Brake fluid should be water clear.

 

[Malleus]

I've owned a few 80s over the years, with great, good and weak brakes. I've never seen a warped rotor. I've driven 80s that felt like they had warped rotors, but I've never measured any that were. The only way to know your rotors are warped, is to measure the runout on the hub, and then only if you have verified the bearings are set properly. If you haven't done this, or had it done, you're spending money for no gain.

IME, the most common front brake problems have two root causes: worn pads and stuck caliper sliding pins (which cause worn pads).

 

[CrabCake]

Very happy with just upgrading to the OEM Toyota 100 pads...my 80 OEM's did just fine, but when time to replace, I bumped up to the 100's and it does feel a little better.

Big difference in surface area between the 2 and stop my 315's easily. I do have the Slee braided lines too, maybe not necessary, but fresh soft lines are always a plus.



Edit, I see that you already run the 100's, but at least the photo may help others with a visual...

 

[FMC80]

Very happy with just upgrading to the OEM Toyota 100 pads...my 80 OEM's did just fine, but when time to replace, I bumped up to the 100's and it does feel a little better.

Big difference in surface area between the 2 and stop my 315's easily. I do have the Slee braided lines too, maybe not necessary, but fresh soft lines are always a plus.



Edit, I see that you already run the 100's, but at least the photo may help others with a visual...

Nothing against anyone who buys into the 100 series pads up front of 80s, but I raise an eyebrow whenever there is any conjecture that 100 series pads improve braking performance.

I haven’t exhausted the research, and I won’t, but I have not read anything remotely scientific or empirical to prove or disprove the thought that the fractional increase in surface area of the 100 series pads improves braking performance by any discernible degree. Especially when using your butt as the barometer.

I’ll stick to 80 series pads on my 80 series cruiser. They happen to fit perfectly in conjunction with the shims.