- Thread starter
- #41
I've got a pair of forged Iron Man UCAs in my cart thanks to you. JERK
great price right now, oem everything. literally can’t go tits up.
SOLVED - Weird behavior / steering wobble (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter AnyMal
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great price right now, oem everything. literally can’t go tits up.
- Thread starter
- #42
Another quick update.
While in the garage checking some things I decided to test drivers side for needle bearing slop. No play whatsoever.
Gonna pick a time to do the rest but I think everything is healthy outside of what I’ve done to ruin things lol.
While in the garage checking some things I decided to test drivers side for needle bearing slop. No play whatsoever.
Gonna pick a time to do the rest but I think everything is healthy outside of what I’ve done to ruin things lol.
- Thread starter
- #43
Since I’m back on balancing topic.
I thought I had quoted these in previous replies… my bad.
I had basically a perfect roadforce balance done, with very low readings and multiple match spins at Lexus with the master tech. I think it was in the og post, and the new hopping issue is now in the rear. The wobble issue was also a fast shimmy, which I’ve read around is more indication of higher rpm imbalance on things like drive shafts. It was pretty speed specific though, making me think it was AHC induced.
So now I am almost certain my rears are out of balance and it does not come through the wheel. The chassis is hopping though from the rear forward. Seat type vibration.
How smooth are y’all talking though here with upsize ATs in LT ranges on the highway above 65? I’ve had guys at the shop tell me they will always bounce, but that cant be the case, half the vehicles in Austin are on ATs, literally.
If I called Toyo and asked for the Ps again they would probably cuss me out. LOL
@grinchy was it you who suggested beads?
I am thinking of trying that, since losing balance has been an issue albeit different to the og topic ive had since day one on the LTs. Seems like if it’s my abuse causing out of roundness, or slipping the bead, this is the only solution that will keep up with the changing forces dynamically.
Are you supposed to remove your stick on weights?
@TeCKis300 Anything like this on your A/T 3s at all? How smooth is smooth?
What makes you sure this isn't a balancing issue? You had a balancing issue with one previously and it seems to be a likely culprit.
I thought I had quoted these in previous replies… my bad.
I had basically a perfect roadforce balance done, with very low readings and multiple match spins at Lexus with the master tech. I think it was in the og post, and the new hopping issue is now in the rear. The wobble issue was also a fast shimmy, which I’ve read around is more indication of higher rpm imbalance on things like drive shafts. It was pretty speed specific though, making me think it was AHC induced.
So now I am almost certain my rears are out of balance and it does not come through the wheel. The chassis is hopping though from the rear forward. Seat type vibration.
How smooth are y’all talking though here with upsize ATs in LT ranges on the highway above 65? I’ve had guys at the shop tell me they will always bounce, but that cant be the case, half the vehicles in Austin are on ATs, literally.
If I called Toyo and asked for the Ps again they would probably cuss me out. LOL
@grinchy was it you who suggested beads?
I am thinking of trying that, since losing balance has been an issue albeit different to the og topic ive had since day one on the LTs. Seems like if it’s my abuse causing out of roundness, or slipping the bead, this is the only solution that will keep up with the changing forces dynamically.
Are you supposed to remove your stick on weights?
@TeCKis300 Anything like this on your A/T 3s at all? How smooth is smooth?
The Toyo's AT3s balance out better than any other ATs I've have, which is to say pretty damn great. Annecdotal, but I find this is where the premium brands and model lines excel.
- Thread starter
- #45
I have no complaints with the tires, it’s probably just me being overly critical of ride quality. I did speak with my Lexus tech and it was a hunter elite, so that rules out runout, which method was more than happy to replace when I spoke to them.
Honestly, method customer service is top notch.
If I recall highest balance weight tire was something like 5oz, most around 2-3. That pretty damn good.
Right now around town it’s perfect, but I have yet to exceed 70 to see if they’ve settled down.
Will update further in build thread.
Not anecdotal. You get what you pay for. QA/QC and manufacturing processes are just that much better.
The 33” Defenders I just purchased are unbelievably smooth.
- Thread starter
- #47
michelins we’re only thing i put on my BMs, didn’t ever care the cost.
They may have saved my life a few times too lol
Glad to have you reinforce this. I absolutely agree and the steps you mention is classically where discount brands and model lines save on costs.
Nitto as the discount line of Toyo's , I've annecdotally found not to balance as well from my two sets.
Just softening the message as fanboys often get offended.
- Thread starter
- #49
Glad to have you reinforce this. I absolutely agree and the steps you mention is classically where discount brands and model lines save on costs.
Nitto as the discount line of Toyo's , I've annecdotally found not to balance as well from my two sets.
Just softening the message as fanboys often get offended.
I’ll have my Lexus on Toyos please.
Not the Toyota on Nittos.
lol
Appropriate as the two sets of Nittos were on my T4R. Never again.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Let us know how they do, I have been tempted to run these but am a bit terrified of how their adjustability will add additional variables/failure points. Could result in heading down another rabbit hole. I don't need that after chasing a Kdss lean for far too long.
- Thread starter
- #53
That’s exactly the problem, I’m chasing some shortcomings and modifying at the same time, bit of a redundant exercise.
Since the panhard did so well for me, and we dont have a carrier bearing to cheaply drop with shim spacers, I see this as my only solution.
The problem with AHC, and likely the reason for its very aggressive speed limits, is that its using the exact same underpinnings as the LC. While stock, you will be fine, but since its not a static lift, you cant ever really finalize your pinion angles.
Aside from finding the motion ratio of the upper and lower trailing rear links, all i can really do is set it back to factory angles at normal height, that way its within its expected tolerance range. Easiest way to do this will be wheelbase measurement.
If they we’re not on car adjustable i would not have bought them.
I will do my best to play it by eye, plastic bags between motor oil under the rear tires in the garage, fronts chocked, jounce, AHC cycle, and remeasure.
I seriously didn't drive enough highway after my ahc lift to notice these vibrations, but in either case, i want to protect my t case output shaft seal as best i can by restoring its normal angle and travel length through the slip joint.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
To add more anecdotal data here on balancing weights, One of my 34" Yokohama MTs only took 1.25 ounces to be road force balanced. That is shockingly good and even less then the factory size dunlops. Majority of the Yoko GOO3 's called for between 3-5 ounces, they ride surpsisingly smooth for being a MT.Glad to have you reinforce this. I absolutely agree and the steps you mention is classically where discount brands and model lines save on costs.
Nitto as the discount line of Toyo's , I've annecdotally found not to balance as well from my two sets.
Just softening the message as fanboys often get offended.
Adding some additional data on my "budget" Kenda At2 tires, all 5 took between 3-5 ounces to be road force balanced. And ride perfectly smooth. Size Lt275/70r18. I had a Similar experience with the Kenda Klever RT tires. They also balanced easily but took slightly weight then the Kenda AT2.
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TLC2013
SILVER Star
Factory size Dunlop Grandtrek AT23: 11x0.25 ounce weights
Yokohama MT G003 Lt285/70r18: 5x0.25 ounce weights
Kenda AT2 LT275/70r18: 12x0.25 ounce weights
Yokohama MT G003 Lt285/70r18: 5x0.25 ounce weights
Kenda AT2 LT275/70r18: 12x0.25 ounce weights
- Thread starter
- #56
Love Yokohama’s, almost went to the X-AT meself.
Was too scared about weight at that time.
Put my sisters GX 460 on G015s, very nice tire. No data on how they balanced though but i will check next time im under her truck.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Those X-AT tires look great. Give them a try, Discount Tire has an excellent return/exchange Policy. That’s where I purchased my MTs from just in case I couldn’t stand them.
Asking out of ignorance on my part but how much does the wheel itself impact the weight needed to balance? Is it typical for lower quality wheels to need more weights ?
My balancing weight examples are from reputable companies: Evo Course, Method and the OEM wheel.
Those G015s are a solid tire, almost went with them too as a daily tire but I ultimately settled on the Kenda AT2’s. Mainly due to price and their lower weight. So far Kenda has impressed me, both with their RT and AT2 tires.
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- Thread starter
- #58
Im no expert here but,
Ive been trying to sort this out myself.
The wheel should be perfect, however, it depends on manufacturing process. How the metallurgy “settles”, forged vs pressed, vs machined all plays into it as well. Then you add a valve stem bore and bollocks it all up lol. Some wheels account for that. This is an area where even I would say OEM is probably best here.
Then of course, hardness will deter radial runout, so alloys typically win in remaining true.
Now tires and tire manufacturing probably varies a lot and most good ones will place a red or yellow dot. The yellow dot should be matched to the valve stem, where the tpms will be, as its the lightest spot in the tire. Red is heaviest and goes opposite.
This has not always held up in my real life experience on several new toyos. Not to say it wasnt accurate, but that it didnt mesh with the wheel properly.
This is where road-force shines. It will match pair the two prior to balancing weights minimizing weights required and adding additional smoothness in ride due to consistent rotational forces exerted against the road.
Where ive been lately, is wondering how much the weight synergy between tire and wheel affects going out of balance as tires wear. In my mind, if the tire is significantly heavier than the wheel its on, slight wearing will more quickly feel out of balance.
After a couple years of looking into things like this, im a pretty firm believer in limiting sidewall aspect upsizing to matched wheels, and you will see this with nearly every oem. A square fitment usually too for added stability.
I wont exceed 33” on a 17” wheel. Thats. 8” sidewall already.
Not when I’m hardly off pavement.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
That’s a good analysis, glad to see I am not the only one geeking out over this subject lol. I am in good company here in the 200 section of Mud.
- Thread starter
- #60
welcome welcome!
Its 75% tire and wheel, 10% issues, 10% actual mods, the rest is mostly show boating and s*** slinging with the occasional trip envy.
LOLOL
