SOLVED - Weird behavior / steering wobble (1 Viewer)

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AnyMal

no quema cuh
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
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Im chasing an intermittent steering wobble for a while now. Started after my last dealer service and rotation 10k ago, but already had about 5k on the tires no probs. Balanced wheel/tire multiple times at discount (waste of time).

I had glazed and badly deposited rotors that shook violently under hard braking that have since been replaced. Brakes are completely smooth now, stops smooth and straight even from very high speeds. Wobble significantly reduced while driving But sadly not gone as i had hoped. Had a perfect alignment done as well with master tech shop manager at lexus at his side The whole time. 0 camber, 4 degree caster, as true a toe as we could get, tracks straight, i even asked for as little cross camber caster as possible to rule that out since i drive mostly city. Slight toe in as usual. Great weight to the steering, great smooth center return. Basically as good an alignment as possible, thanks to the UCA preset giving tons of adjustability. Never noticed any tire cupping. Did a road force balance with him on all 5, dynamic balance and road force was as low as 4lbs, highest was 12 and its in the rear. Multiple de bead and force match turns. Took our sweet time with it (make friends with them!). Used the 5 lug finger bracket as Toyota specs for balancing.

Steering rack is drum tight with one wheel up test. Sway links taught. Ive torqued everything properly on reassembly after mods and condition is exactly the same. Zero play in the wheel in any direction 12-6 or 3-9.
Cleaned my hubs with rust remover and very carefully cleaned them to a nice og silver. Took extra care very gently to not overwork it and keep it true but dont have a runout dial (yet). Truck has 72k. Final Torqued wheels on ground, played with torque as high as 120. everything is hub and lug centric. Shake comes every once in a while 65 and above only. 95% gone. No weeping shocks, AHC is in perfect order. Everything under 65 is smooth as glass. Bearden ( one of the best LC specialist in the country) said it drove perfect. Lexus master tech told me he personally sold his tundra because of a recurring shake. But he also couldn’t believe how good it rode one 33” ATs and lifted. Everyone loves it.

Ive ruled out just about everything but the wheel/tire. I am dragging my rear axle but will correct that today with adjustable panhard. Hope that might be it. The LX hydraulic steering is very good with feedback, and the hydropneumatic suspension does also behave sensitively by its nature (specially lifted). We all know this truck is very sensitive to alignment and tire pressure as is with short wheelbases. Ive played with tire pressure endlessly and have it pretty perfect. The upper ball joint is new oem, and the lowers are tight but have some normal seeping beneath. I will check for lift on the lowers but my prybar is too wide.

The only thing i can think of other than above (everyone else is stumped) is AHC and Toyo AT3 or other ATs with staggered shoulder lug design. Or my 25 offset wheels, but a ton of people run without issue and even lower offsets than that. Despite that with an ifs lift my effective offset is closer to 35 as the swing brings it closer towards the KAI intersect contact point. There will be scrub effects still of course until i go up in tire size but that does not present in a straight line.

So my theory is that since the truck drops at 65mph+ and is perfectly smooth prior to that at any speed, its going into slight negative camber just enough to ride the staggered shoulder and pull my steering into a tiny wobble vibration to the left / right as its mismatched in rotation the to opposite tire. That would explain the intermittency and the 65mph+ condition.

i have no idea what else it could be. Is anyone experiencing anything like this? I sold my oem wheels because 21s are worthless for tire selection and a horrible factory choice. My next step is to buy some tundra takeoffs but maybe i can save a grand with others input. I could also spend the grand on new hubs and studs, but i highly doubt that they are bad. I also have two great neighbor friends in the LC, one with a 16 LX on factory 20s and spacers. I could beg him to borrow his wheels but thats asking a lot lol.

I don’t believe i have a sticking caliper but thats the one thing i didnt do in my brake job, rebuild pistons and seals. When i say i was meticulous in doing brake job i mean you would send me to the psych ward if you witnessed it. Things are all greased and moved freely upon inspection. And yes i will rip them apart again just to check. System was bled multiple times.

Its just enough to drive me crazy and after 2+ years of ownership i still cant enjoy driving. Im the type of guy who wants it perfect. I demand a lot but this is not a normal thing anyone could live with. And this isn't the type of truck that wears stuff at 72k miles.
Im out of ****ing ideas. I know i saw a positive camber spec somewhere that could remedy this but all my resources are showing 0 camber standard for AHC. I know my 470 always had outer edge wear.

does anyone know about or have this problem? Are you on an AT with a staggered shoulder design?
Am i overlooking something obvious? Maybe driver globe is weak? No good test for spheres unfortunatel but they are getting swapped at 75k per my own made up interval.

Everyone says it drives like a dream, but every once in a while it picks up the steering shimmy again. I take such good care of it and bought this truck to hold on to for decades. Have been frustrated with it since day one, leaning, etc. Did i get the evil eye?
 
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Oh and one other idea was to add even more caster. 4 is still in factory range but with the ahc lowering, could put it into a low enough caster to induce road influence (or tire).

AHC i love you but damn you finicky.
 
Certainly you've tried re-rotating the tires, yes?

Re rotated and rebalanced. Yes. But i would feel that at 60 and not just above ahc lowering point certainly?
 
Could you have them redo the alignment at LOW setting? I'm assuming they aligned at Neutral. That would validate your theory that it's an alignment change. That and somehow trying with a different tire and wheel setup like you mentioned are what I would recommend.
Almost all of the ATs I've ever had have had a barely perceptible bit of vibration at higher speed compared to street or highway tires, but I'm honestly probably less picky than most (I drove a Grand Cherokee on Bias Ply Swampers cross country once, and it permanently broke my barometer on ride smoothness)
Also, is it possible you have a wheel bearing going out? You should hear it, but maybe not with the sound insulation on the LX... 76k seems early for an LX, but I've had Toyota bearings go that early, and even rode in a Camry once with 40k and a bad front wheel bearing so it's possible. Maybe try the Jack the tire up and rock at 6 and 12 test. You might have noticed when you were checking the other front end parts for tightness, but it's easy enough to check...
 
Could you have them redo the alignment at LOW setting? I'm assuming they aligned at Neutral. That would validate your theory that it's an alignment change. That and somehow trying with a different tire and wheel setup like you mentioned are what I would recommend.
Almost all of the ATs I've ever had have had a barely perceptible bit of vibration at higher speed compared to street or highway tires, but I'm honestly probably less picky than most (I drove a Grand Cherokee on Bias Ply Swampers cross country once, and it permanently broke my barometer on ride smoothness)
Also, is it possible you have a wheel bearing going out? You should hear it, but maybe not with the sound insulation on the LX... 76k seems early for an LX, but I've had Toyota bearings go that early, and even rode in a Camry once with 40k and a bad front wheel bearing so it's possible. Maybe try the Jack the tire up and rock at 6 and 12 test. You might have noticed when you were checking the other front end parts for tightness, but it's easy enough to check...

Fronts roll smoothly, no bearing growl at all. Rear i can hear drivetrain gearing only, def not bearing type noise. Only thing i didnt do was align with AHC pressurized with the truck running in normal but i dont think the fsm calls that out. I believe its all off and unloaded per the book. The problem with aligning in low is that its lower than the highway height.

thanks for the input.
 
I had an intermittent, high speed vibration like that. It went away when I put on new rims and tires. I think it was tire based, since I had used the rim set on other tires without the issue. No issue with the tire balance or inflation, I suspect one tire was very slightly out of round and when it got hot this was accentuated? It's just a theory. Consider looking at a tire shave?
 
I had an intermittent, high speed vibration like that. It went away when I put on new rims and tires. I think it was tire based, since I had used the rim set on other tires without the issue. No issue with the tire balance or inflation, I suspect one tire was very slightly out of round and when it got hot this was accentuated? It's just a theory. Consider looking at a tire shave?

I’m worried its the tires, but the roadforce machine checks for hop too. They balanced very nicely. 4-6 lbs for an AT is a fantastic result. And Toyo is one of the best manufacturers out there.

It could just be AHC in combination with tread design. This isnt a typical use case that tires would be engineered to roll smooth off camber in straight line driving.

what two tires did you swap in your case?
 
Old hotness Kenda 275/80r18 AT (and a mild AT at that) new hotness Kenda 35x10.5r17 RT.
Like the rt a lot, excellent on and off road, mild hum just slightly louder than an AT, but probably a bit overkill for your use case.
 
Old hotness Kenda 275/80r18 AT (and a mild AT at that) new hotness Kenda 35x10.5r17 RT.
Like the rt a lot, excellent on and off road, mild hum just slightly louder than an AT, but probably a bit overkill for your use case.

costco doesnt count???

Another point, culprit could be dynamic balance. Dynamic balance expects the assembly to remain perpendicular to the road at all speeds which the lx does not do. But that should not matter and balance is the same in all rotational angles. Thats the point of dynamic balancing really, its 3d balanced.
i have tried static balancing as well prior to the lexus roadforce with fingers.

that being said, i have enough sidewall and width for the tire to conform to the road at camber and not lose patch area. Same thing at 34-42 psi. No changes.
 
i've at various times run balance beads, beads and lead, bubble balance (static?) at home with lead, store balanced lead. I think beads were probably best, aside from the spin up sound below 15 mph when they waterfall down on to the rim.
 
i've at various times run balance beads, beads and lead, bubble balance (static?) at home with lead, store balanced lead. I think beads were probably best, aside from the spin up sound below 15 mph when they waterfall down on to the rim.

Just seems crazy to have to bead toyo 33s. That would also mean i have to pop and reseat everything at home. You’re the driveway king though lol.
 
I would guess it's your wheel/tire balance. About 15k miles ago I had terrible balance issues with my well-worn BFG All Terrains (~35-40k miles old). It was very similar to what you describe above. On two occasions Discount Tires could fix it with their normal balancing process. I was ready to buy new tires. On the third try, they unmounted the tires and spun them on the wheels and rebalanced. This fixed the issue and I was happy to drive them another 15k.
 
Bruh....

This has got to be it?!? Am i crazy? Yes. But am i that crazy though?
There is clear staggering designed to reduce harmonics. Is this just a trash fitment for the LX?


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what tread depth is left there? maybe you're just got a wear issue. shaving would fix that. Probably just a fancy tire problem.
 
what tread depth is left there? maybe you're just got a wear issue. shaving would fix that. Probably just a fancy tire problem.

I just calipered it. Its exactly 1mm higher. Tires have like 10k miles on them. Just about one year since the LT-C switch.
Discount even warrantied 1 that was not balancing well when toyo bought them back.
I pulled my new spare and ran the two brand new tires up front together till the last rotation because I'm particular.
Right now, the old rears are crossed to the front.

This is not a balancing or wear issue, this is a design issue.
Specifically with the LX. I spent so much time leveling and perfecting the suspension that it must just be picking it up.
It's hard for me to even believe it's that sensitive but its hydraulic steering and hydraulic suspension. Feedback city.
And I'm relatively low mileage, so things are still tight. This is compounded by the fact my inner shoulder sees the least miles in AHC highway camber.

When I had the P rated for the year I ran them, it never happened because it must have been hidden by the softness of the compound.
(baby s*** soft abomination of a tire that shouldn't even exist)
That first dealer rotation at 5k on the LTs i must not have had much highway miles yet at that point.
Im 95% city miles. Costco, whole foods, 20 min airport trip is the most frequent highway time i do.

This is going to wear out my steering rack prematurely and probably a host of other things like why maybe be lower ball joints are seeping.
I am not a happy customer once again with this tire choice. This time it's not necessarily Toyos fault.

Not sure what to do outside of a belt sander using the truck as a giant lathe.
I want out of the toyo brand to be honest.

Any good recommendations for a 34" tire? @Madtiger LOL
Can someone get me a good photo of their KO2?

I bet if i jounce and AHC normal, then pull the fuse it will not shimmy anymore. Thats one test i can think of to confirm.

When can i actually enjoy owning this truck? This is base R1S money... My mind is wandering.
 
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Discount even warrantied 1 that was not balancing well when toyo bought them back.
snip...

This is not a balancing or wear issue, this is a design issue.
snip...
What makes you sure this isn't a balancing issue? You had a balancing issue with one previously and it seems to be a likely culprit. 🤔
 
Specifically with the LX. I spent so much time leveling and perfecting the suspension that it must just be picking it up.

I realize this comment isn't helpful but perhaps whatever perfect means in this application will never live up to your expectations. Based on your posts, I'd suggest moving on from this platform because generally the things you describe as deficiencies or issues, I view as normal on a 200-series. Both the good ones and the bad ones.
 
I realize this comment isn't helpful but perhaps whatever perfect means in this application will never live up to your expectations. Based on your posts, I'd suggest moving on from this platform because generally the things you describe as deficiencies or issues, I view as normal on a 200-series. Both the good ones and the bad ones.

thanks but I’m not throwing in the towel just yet.
Does your steering wobble on your truck though?
Also, it seems this is a wheel and tire issue, sorry for venting frustrations but in this case its not the LX. Shaking isnt a common issue im aware of at least.
 
So I run Nokian Outpost AT on our LX.

I had discount fail at balancing 4 different times.

Had someone I knew calibrated their machines frequently and no issues.

Took all Ridge Grapplers at 10k miles.....love them on 100 the 200 is a beast on tires. Getting the right combo with noise and smooth tread.
 

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