jmccandless
SILVER Star
All, I was hoping for some perspectives on troubleshooting my 60:
Yesterday I installed a new CityRacer radiator (nice stuff) plus the uppper and lower hoses.
Filled w new coolant (~3.5 gallons, I did not drain the block), filled the overflow and burped it with a funnel kit.
I let the engine run for ~15 minutes til the bubbling stopped.
I did NOT run the front or rear heater during this step before buttoning things up. (In hindsight, I think I shortchanged the process.)
Did a short drive from my shop to home (less than 5 miles), all was good.
Today, I took the truck for a 30-40 mile drive, coolant temp gauge good, air temp cool/light rain, etc.
Then, I notice the heater was blowing cool air.
Then, I see the water temp gauge was pegged to red.
I let the truck cool down and because I was in an area of no cell service, I try to limp my way back to civilization.
Truck starts/runs well, but I pull over after 5 miles or so after the temp gauge climbs back to red, and heater still blowing cold.
Under the hood, the radiator was cool to the touch, upper hose warming up, oil pressure good.
Wondered if the gauge was off/not working. Tried to carry on, but pulled over 5 miles more down the road to check temps again.
Engine stalled as I pulled over and I heard what sounded like the water pump was letting go.
Called AAA.
Stripped back to the block, the water pump had a very slight burn smell but not terrible, seems to spin freely in my hand, it didn't seize/belts are good. Pump is 5+ years old, thermostat is fairly new.
It can't be a coincidence the water pump fails right after a new radiator and coolant fill? Assuming I burped it incorrectly, would air in the system cause the pegged temp gauge and no hot air symptoms, then cause the water pump to fail? Or, are the gauge and heater symptoms suggesting something else?
Thanks if you've read this far!
Jason
Yesterday I installed a new CityRacer radiator (nice stuff) plus the uppper and lower hoses.
Filled w new coolant (~3.5 gallons, I did not drain the block), filled the overflow and burped it with a funnel kit.
I let the engine run for ~15 minutes til the bubbling stopped.
I did NOT run the front or rear heater during this step before buttoning things up. (In hindsight, I think I shortchanged the process.)
Did a short drive from my shop to home (less than 5 miles), all was good.
Today, I took the truck for a 30-40 mile drive, coolant temp gauge good, air temp cool/light rain, etc.
Then, I notice the heater was blowing cool air.
Then, I see the water temp gauge was pegged to red.
I let the truck cool down and because I was in an area of no cell service, I try to limp my way back to civilization.
Truck starts/runs well, but I pull over after 5 miles or so after the temp gauge climbs back to red, and heater still blowing cold.
Under the hood, the radiator was cool to the touch, upper hose warming up, oil pressure good.
Wondered if the gauge was off/not working. Tried to carry on, but pulled over 5 miles more down the road to check temps again.
Engine stalled as I pulled over and I heard what sounded like the water pump was letting go.
Called AAA.
Stripped back to the block, the water pump had a very slight burn smell but not terrible, seems to spin freely in my hand, it didn't seize/belts are good. Pump is 5+ years old, thermostat is fairly new.
It can't be a coincidence the water pump fails right after a new radiator and coolant fill? Assuming I burped it incorrectly, would air in the system cause the pegged temp gauge and no hot air symptoms, then cause the water pump to fail? Or, are the gauge and heater symptoms suggesting something else?
Thanks if you've read this far!
Jason