Bought a 2000 LC about a month ago with 138k. Timing belt had not been done so I had a mechanic (one I am not very familiar with, sadly) look it over and said truck looks good, but should do timing belt water pump ASAP. I figured that was going to be the case so told him to go ahead. Timing belt water pump was completed this past Friday. I picked it up and had to take it straight on a 180ish mile trip where I hit tons of traffic, truck drove great the entire way. Left it parked all weekend. Drove home this morning and at the end of the ride the A/T oil temp and check engine both came on and the truck clearly lost power and was driving off. I pulled over and gave it about a half hour to cool down. Was able to get home after but truck was not driving as well as usual and then while pulling into my drive way stalled. Is my transmission toast? I checked the fluid and it looked good and didn’t smell burnt but it was higher than it should have been. I am pretty much a newb here so I think my next move has to be getting it towed to the shop, should I bring it to a specialized Transmission shop or back to the shop that did the timing belt work? Dealership? Any advice is greatly appreciated and anyone who has had a transmission go out on them and can tell me their experience, thanks.
First big problem with my newish LC 100 today (transmission) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter fatsoilsNsweets
- Start date
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DO NOT take to dealership. Trans shop should be first stop, have them determine IF the transmission is the issue or something else.
Unfortunately, a certain number of 2000 year model 100 series experienced early transmission failure (A343F), it is a known (though not common occurrence) over a short production period.
Unfortunately, a certain number of 2000 year model 100 series experienced early transmission failure (A343F), it is a known (though not common occurrence) over a short production period.
aging fleet
SILVER Star
I think the first thing that will happen if you take it to a transmission shop is them telling you they need to replace the transmission.
I'd start by taking it to an Autozone or somewhere similar to have the codes read. Based on the story, it sounds more like the car is running poorly vs. a transmission problem. There could be a number of things that trigger both the A/T oil temp and check engine lights.
I'd start by taking it to an Autozone or somewhere similar to have the codes read. Based on the story, it sounds more like the car is running poorly vs. a transmission problem. There could be a number of things that trigger both the A/T oil temp and check engine lights.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Yeah the first thing you need to do before take it to a shop of any kind is get the codes.
Autozone is unlikely to be able to pull transmission specific codes An 'honest' transmission shop can test drive and make an assessment.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Yeah....I know, but 'dealership' is even worse and 'Autozone' for diagnostics or codes? Too....some codes for the transmission can not be pulled using many scanners.
aging fleet
SILVER Star
Can't dispute that, I'm just not sure it's a transmission issue. It's been probably 7 years since mine threw a CEL for a bad gas cap, but I remember getting the CEL, A/T temp, and traction control lights. Reading the codes may point him somewhere other than the transmission, or maybe not.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks for the replies. Update the truck has been sitting most of the day, so I just took it out to drive around the block quick and the shifting felt really clunky and it shut off 2 times in less than a mile drive. Engine restarted fine both times, then I just put it into second and limped home. After that I think my move will be getting it towed to a transmission shop. Pretty bummed as it’s potentially a big chunk of change I’d rather spend elsewhere.
aging fleet
SILVER Star
I wouldn't despair just yet. Transmission 'failure' is not a foregone conclusion. Shift solenoid(s) or some other minor fix could be all it needs. It's just that the year model you have is known to have issues and the A343F is typically a very reliable and long-lived transmission especially at your mileage. That is my concern.
Sucks, now you just need to find that honest transmission shop.
The best guard against that (or ALL repair shops for that matter) is to do a little research and NOT appear to be a totally clueless owner. If you sound like you are ripe for a screwing....many places are happy to oblige. The sad state of things these days, but honest places do exist still.
First easy check that’s worth a shot, make sure ground point EC hasn’t come loose. It’s on the back of the block, passenger side. You have to reach down behind to find it. I know from personal experience that if it comes loose it’ll freak out the transmission way bad.
VtaTom
SILVER Star
Welcome to the club! You might get useful codes with a normal reader. If nothing was done to the transmission during the pre-trip service, I'm wondering how your cooling system is after the water pump change. You could do a transmission "drain and refill" service (not a flush) or drop the transmission pan (search Mud for details) to check for signs of trouble in pan muck (metal pieces vs. grey muck) for not much $$. But I'd start with codes and search on here based on the codes and look for local Landcruiser clubs to get some good referrals or search Mud for "mechanic NYC" or something and you might get to the bottom of it quicker with a mechanic who knows Crusiers. Good luck
Interesting that you posted this, because something similar happened to me today, I was going to write a post about it (and still might when it's all solved.)
I bought 2007 lx470, 110k miles on it. When I picked it up, car worked flawlessly, only thing it needed was a TB and water pump. I brought it to mechanic I had used before, they did the TB and WP, also of course the rack was leaking a little and they suggested (of course!) I have this replaced and I figured ok, lets get this done.
Afterwards the car is shaking a bit at higher speeds, I bring it back in and they mention it wasn't balanced correctly and they do it again, this time it's a little better and drives true.
About 2 weeks after that, I start getting ABS/VSC/TRAC lights, no CEL, and the lights come and go. I bought a new gas cap, didn't seem to help. I bought a brake light switch but I haven't been able to install it yet.
I drive about 500 miles out of town for a wedding, no problem. It's smoky out west, very hot, but car is doing well.
Then when I am back home, the CEL comes on and it's P0345, very small leak, which I dealt with on my older 4runner, so I do all the things, check the hoses and check the MAF and it all looks ok. Light is still on.
The other day I come home and hear a hissing from under the hood, I check and the fuel line coming into the back of the engine bay sounds like it has an air leak, I then noticed it was actually gas spraying....uh oh. So I manipulate the t-piece and the part of the plastic T-piece going into the tube into the engine basically broke apart and the connection is cracked.
That photo is with the tubing removed but you can see the dissolved t-piece.
Anyway, I find a new adapter, put all the hoses back in, everything seems fine. The next day I am driving home again and CEL comes on and this time it's P0117, something with the ECT and the coolant. Then the temp gauge starts moving quickly, car is blowing hot air and theres some sort of crackling noise coming from under the dash (???)...Coolant was near full, normal pink color. Oil was a little low, otherwise everything in the engine bay seemed OK.
Everything started happening after the timing belt was done. The mechanic I go to, well they had a lot of social issues going on and their main technician wasn't there, so maybe it was a bad install? Off time and causing some overheating? I have come up with a lot of 'connect the dots' theories about this but nothing conclusive yet.
I brought it to a different shop that I heard good things about and waiting to hear more about the diagnostics.
Thanks for reading, sorry if a little long winded and not trying to hijack from your situation, but it caught my eye because sounded very similar.
WR
I bought 2007 lx470, 110k miles on it. When I picked it up, car worked flawlessly, only thing it needed was a TB and water pump. I brought it to mechanic I had used before, they did the TB and WP, also of course the rack was leaking a little and they suggested (of course!) I have this replaced and I figured ok, lets get this done.
Afterwards the car is shaking a bit at higher speeds, I bring it back in and they mention it wasn't balanced correctly and they do it again, this time it's a little better and drives true.
About 2 weeks after that, I start getting ABS/VSC/TRAC lights, no CEL, and the lights come and go. I bought a new gas cap, didn't seem to help. I bought a brake light switch but I haven't been able to install it yet.
I drive about 500 miles out of town for a wedding, no problem. It's smoky out west, very hot, but car is doing well.
Then when I am back home, the CEL comes on and it's P0345, very small leak, which I dealt with on my older 4runner, so I do all the things, check the hoses and check the MAF and it all looks ok. Light is still on.
The other day I come home and hear a hissing from under the hood, I check and the fuel line coming into the back of the engine bay sounds like it has an air leak, I then noticed it was actually gas spraying....uh oh. So I manipulate the t-piece and the part of the plastic T-piece going into the tube into the engine basically broke apart and the connection is cracked.
That photo is with the tubing removed but you can see the dissolved t-piece.
Anyway, I find a new adapter, put all the hoses back in, everything seems fine. The next day I am driving home again and CEL comes on and this time it's P0117, something with the ECT and the coolant. Then the temp gauge starts moving quickly, car is blowing hot air and theres some sort of crackling noise coming from under the dash (???)...Coolant was near full, normal pink color. Oil was a little low, otherwise everything in the engine bay seemed OK.
Everything started happening after the timing belt was done. The mechanic I go to, well they had a lot of social issues going on and their main technician wasn't there, so maybe it was a bad install? Off time and causing some overheating? I have come up with a lot of 'connect the dots' theories about this but nothing conclusive yet.
I brought it to a different shop that I heard good things about and waiting to hear more about the diagnostics.
Thanks for reading, sorry if a little long winded and not trying to hijack from your situation, but it caught my eye because sounded very similar.
WR
- Thread starter
- #16
Please keep me posted.
yngmrostrvile
GOLD Star
That is a broken heater t in your picture. Your coolant will be dangerously low. Something you should have requested being replaced a tbelt service.
- Thread starter
- #18
Update- Got it towed to a local transmission shop and he told me my transmission seems fine, thinks it is either the spark plugs/coils or possibly the fuel pump. Will find out more tomorrow.
There ya go.
It's got to be some new kind of scam - it's a transmission shop. Stay on your toes.
