Thanks for the quick turn around @jerryb. Let me carve some time I'll email you with the answers and a basic schematic of wires/colors and connections plus voltage readings and we can go from there.
LED DRL and High Beam for LX and LC (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Luke111
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Thanks for the quick turn around @jerryb. Let me carve some time I'll email you with the answers and a basic schematic of wires/colors and connections plus voltage readings and we can go from there.
For anyone that doesn't know, this picture shows the high beam, also known as 9005, also known as hb3, female that I have in my hand.
the one below it is the male. they are defined by the terminals that go inside them. That is the tiny metal thing that connects to the wire that then grts pushed up into the plastic connector. Regardless of what the connector looks like, the gender is defined by the terminals that go inside it.
there is no OEM toyota male 9005 connector, repair harness or otherwise. That is because the male side of everything is going to be a bulb (in this case).
The stock toyota female 9005 is what is in your car that connects to the headlight bulbs.
the aftermarket male side of a 9005 is a generic thing, just like the picture. They are made, coincidentally so that they fit 9005 AND 9006 female stock manufacturer female connectors. Given that, they are a little bit sketchy. IF you ever find yourself connecting a male 9005 to a stock manufacturer 9005 or 9006 female connector in your car, use caution, the male pins are not 100% of the time going to line up correctly. Be gentle, don't force the connection. If in doubt look at them side by side face up. Check the spacing between the male pins.
If they need more, bend them apart a little bit. They will at most be .5 mm off but it will ruin your day if you trash those pins on accident.
This isn't a rant or anything, just trying to educate so you don't mess up an inexpensive harness made with not quite inexpensive supplies that takes a long time to build.
merry christmas everyone.
the one below it is the male. they are defined by the terminals that go inside them. That is the tiny metal thing that connects to the wire that then grts pushed up into the plastic connector. Regardless of what the connector looks like, the gender is defined by the terminals that go inside it.
there is no OEM toyota male 9005 connector, repair harness or otherwise. That is because the male side of everything is going to be a bulb (in this case).
The stock toyota female 9005 is what is in your car that connects to the headlight bulbs.
the aftermarket male side of a 9005 is a generic thing, just like the picture. They are made, coincidentally so that they fit 9005 AND 9006 female stock manufacturer female connectors. Given that, they are a little bit sketchy. IF you ever find yourself connecting a male 9005 to a stock manufacturer 9005 or 9006 female connector in your car, use caution, the male pins are not 100% of the time going to line up correctly. Be gentle, don't force the connection. If in doubt look at them side by side face up. Check the spacing between the male pins.
If they need more, bend them apart a little bit. They will at most be .5 mm off but it will ruin your day if you trash those pins on accident.
This isn't a rant or anything, just trying to educate so you don't mess up an inexpensive harness made with not quite inexpensive supplies that takes a long time to build.
merry christmas everyone.
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I think this is why the solution in the original post, from LB BuiltWerks, is the only option for an LED High Beam/DRL in my 2006 Land Cruiser. I had bought the Diode Dynamics SL1's for my low beams, and I'm happy with them, but the Diode Dynamic high beams would not work as a DRL because the SL1 high beam would need a PWM implementation to work as both high and DRL, they won't work with the voltage drop implementation in my LC. Am I correct here?
. edit nvm. not the resistor.. i thought I had one in the car. ehh want the DRL to be white so badly.
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So I have an 98 LX that I updated with @Luke111 supplied brackets and Morimoto H1 retrofit kit. The low beam's are now incredible - intense light, with sharp cut off. I also did the bi-xenon mod so the shield drops and the full lense is used for the high beams. I chose 3500k for my light temperature because I find soft white to be the perfect headlight color.
That has basically rendered my high beam (factory halogens) useless! Are there any upgrades to add a little more "throw" to the high beams? Sorry if this has already been discussed in the last few pages.
That has basically rendered my high beam (factory halogens) useless! Are there any upgrades to add a little more "throw" to the high beams? Sorry if this has already been discussed in the last few pages.
I made a post here
forum.ih8mud.com
Looking for pics of LX daytime running light relays wire connections and colors. Specifically LX's that have not had the service campaign completed.
@LonghornLX did you ever get yours sorted, or ?? go look at the above thread and compare your vin range in case you possibly had the retrofit stock resistor at the dealer.
Need some pictures of 1998-2002 LX high beam wiring connectors and Daytime running light relay wire connections
I'm looking for relay wire colors and position pics on an LX that has not had the Service campaign on the daytime running lights, and the high beam wire colors. Those will be white/black with one other color each on both sides. It needs to be an LX that does not have the resistor installed. The...
forum.ih8mud.com
Looking for pics of LX daytime running light relays wire connections and colors. Specifically LX's that have not had the service campaign completed.
@LonghornLX did you ever get yours sorted, or ?? go look at the above thread and compare your vin range in case you possibly had the retrofit stock resistor at the dealer.
Yes mine is sorted now. I ran the updated dlr with the factory resistor for a couple of weeks (very intense bright dlr ) then switched back to Luke's provided resistor and things have been great since.
No further issues.
No further issues.
SSC special service campaign for LX daytime running light fix attached.
part number for the repair kit 04005-08160
1998 to early 2005 lexus LX. (05/2005 production date most likely) It says how many units were affected, I think 75000. Which is probably about all of them, at least all NA bound units.
vin ranges affected- see pic
That kit includes a jumper from the cars connector to the daytime running light relay, it's just an extension of three wires and one wire out with a connector on the end that would go to the new resistor. (also a stray ground white/black that gets screwed to the fender wall passenger side. It is gray in color where the original connector colors are black.
It is connected to the relay closest to the firewall. The daytime running light relay is actually two relays side by side. One is a six prong and the other four prong.
Also included is the stock resistor, the resistor mounting bracket, and probably two screws. I have not seen the kit. Also in the kit may or may not be an extra wire or terminal that goes under the main fuse box for the 2003-2005 years. I'm guessing body ecu, combo meter, or headlight stalk interaction. Not really applicable to getting LEDs in the 9005 spot. (far as I can tell)
I do not know if a dealer will still perform the service on any affected units that haven't been fixed yet.
the main take away is that with that kit you get the relay jumper that includes an extra wire with connector to the newly installed resistor.
and the mount for the same. This would be beneficial to someone that doesn't want to go pick out the 3a position wire on the relay and cut it and wire in Lou's resistor. I do not know how much the ssc part number costs, 04005-08160 I don't even know if that is still available.
If you don't want to spend money on that then pick out the correct wire on the daytime running light relay and wire in Lou's resistor. ONe end of the resistor to the cut wire going back into the relay and the other end of the resistor to any ground.
A velcro mount, zip ties, custom piece of aluminum, steel, etc. The mount holes are already there in the stock locating for the resistor mounting bracket. (that I've seen so far, -2002 year)
I wouldn't go to the dealer, but I'd love to see the relay jumper plug.
the only reason any of this matters is the want or need for LEDs in the high beam 9005 slot functioning as daytime running lights in the stock configuration for any year LX or LC.
part number for the repair kit 04005-08160
1998 to early 2005 lexus LX. (05/2005 production date most likely) It says how many units were affected, I think 75000. Which is probably about all of them, at least all NA bound units.
vin ranges affected- see pic
That kit includes a jumper from the cars connector to the daytime running light relay, it's just an extension of three wires and one wire out with a connector on the end that would go to the new resistor. (also a stray ground white/black that gets screwed to the fender wall passenger side. It is gray in color where the original connector colors are black.
It is connected to the relay closest to the firewall. The daytime running light relay is actually two relays side by side. One is a six prong and the other four prong.
Also included is the stock resistor, the resistor mounting bracket, and probably two screws. I have not seen the kit. Also in the kit may or may not be an extra wire or terminal that goes under the main fuse box for the 2003-2005 years. I'm guessing body ecu, combo meter, or headlight stalk interaction. Not really applicable to getting LEDs in the 9005 spot. (far as I can tell)
I do not know if a dealer will still perform the service on any affected units that haven't been fixed yet.
the main take away is that with that kit you get the relay jumper that includes an extra wire with connector to the newly installed resistor.
and the mount for the same. This would be beneficial to someone that doesn't want to go pick out the 3a position wire on the relay and cut it and wire in Lou's resistor. I do not know how much the ssc part number costs, 04005-08160 I don't even know if that is still available.
If you don't want to spend money on that then pick out the correct wire on the daytime running light relay and wire in Lou's resistor. ONe end of the resistor to the cut wire going back into the relay and the other end of the resistor to any ground.
A velcro mount, zip ties, custom piece of aluminum, steel, etc. The mount holes are already there in the stock locating for the resistor mounting bracket. (that I've seen so far, -2002 year)
I wouldn't go to the dealer, but I'd love to see the relay jumper plug.
the only reason any of this matters is the want or need for LEDs in the high beam 9005 slot functioning as daytime running lights in the stock configuration for any year LX or LC.
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #111
In a nutshell @jerryb got his hands on a 2002 LX installed a set of the 2 Stroke LEDS, attached his harness and they work as a DRL and High Beam. I have another member who has the LED kit and a set of HID lights I built. The LEDS are not working yet but we believe it could be a faulty harness. I know a few of you with the earlier LX's have been waiting.....so we have one final test before we green light it and your truck has to have the above Special Service Campaign....stay tune for anyone interested.
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Just had mine done yesterday along with the airbag sensor assembly and steering fitting kit recall. All under warranty.
pretty cool they still have that kit and will still install it.
having them install that eliminates anyone having to mess with the relay if you really are insisting to have LEDs in the high beam slot that operate as DRLs.
I know it isn't a priority for most but it's pretty cool to have matching colored lights.
having them install that eliminates anyone having to mess with the relay if you really are insisting to have LEDs in the high beam slot that operate as DRLs.
I know it isn't a priority for most but it's pretty cool to have matching colored lights.
any for an '06 lx?
Flipped Bezel
Here for a good time...not a long time!
I finally decided to buy this LED kit to match the light color of my HID retrofitted low beam lamps. The installation was a breeze as @jerryb harness is put together with quality craftsmanship. It uses high grade wiring, is very well built and everything is plug and play. All wires in the harness are marked and self explanatory. I was very pleased with the directions and ease of installation of this kit. I read through Jerry's posts earlier in this thread where he detailed the wiring circuit specifics and helped other posters troubleshoot and work through issues to understand and prepare for the installation.
I removed my original DRL resistor/bracket/cage, separated everything and then mounted @Luke111 supplied new resistor to the existing mounting bracket holes with a couple of 8-32 x 1/2" machine screws and associated hardware. I didn't worry about refitting the OEM heat shielding cage back onto the bracket since these shouldn't be running very hot.
I began with the LED bulb harness installation on the passenger side where my HID relay harness and OEM connection now resides. This side is easy since it is way more accessible than the battery side of engine compartment. I removed the original HID harness splitters from the OEM connector and removed the high beam halogen bulb from the housing. The 2 stroke bulbs twisted in and appear to be a pretty snug fit and hopefully a good seal inside the housing port. I didn't use any silicone grease on the bulb seals but Lou does recommend putting dielectric grease on all connector terminals to weatherproof. I made a careful polarity examination of the stock high beam connector vs. LED harness connector wires (black on harness plug connects to red/yellow on OEM plug). It is a critical step to get these harness to OEM connectors installed with the polarity correct to avoid problems. The HID shutter/LED bulb connectors to harness splitters are not similarly polarity sensitive and can be swapped but everything on my harness mated up with the correct polarity as assembled. I made all connections on the supplied harness and tried to route everything in an organized fashion and tucked out of the way of potential damage.
After sliding it in some flame retardant split wire loom, I routed the harness over to the driver's side of the engine bay running the bundle along the top of my radiator zip tying it to the OEM wire bundle and my HID relay harness already routed across there. I took time to change out my split rubber insulators on the A/C line brackets atop there with some universal style rubbers that I sourced from Amazon. They are a little taller than the damaged stock rubbers and allow for more room for the extra wiring to cross underneath without being pinched or smashing down on the wiring bundles. After removing the battery, old splitters and bulb, I followed the same procedure as the passenger's side except for making sure that the harness red wire connects to OEM high beam red/green wire when making connection to the stock light plug. I organized and secured everything and dropped the battery back into place to test the lights before securing everything.
The final step is to open the engine bay fuse box and remove the 20 amp right hand high beam fuse as it is no longer needed. I followed Jerry's advice and swapped the other side 20 amp high beam fuse with a 5 amp and made sure to have a few 7.5 amp spares just in case they were needed. The lights functioned perfectly in my LX when testing for lows/highs with the engine off and the DRLs fired right up when I cranked the engine. I shut it down and secured the battery then took time to zip tie the wire bundles as out of the way of harm as possible.
The fit and finish of the kit and the wiring is excellent and gives my LX an updated modern look as compared to the old yellow lighting. I love the output and color of the LEDs and now my high beams completely match the tone of my HIDs. Thanks to Lou and Jerry for putting in the work to make this upgrade a plug and play reality!!
I removed my original DRL resistor/bracket/cage, separated everything and then mounted @Luke111 supplied new resistor to the existing mounting bracket holes with a couple of 8-32 x 1/2" machine screws and associated hardware. I didn't worry about refitting the OEM heat shielding cage back onto the bracket since these shouldn't be running very hot.
I began with the LED bulb harness installation on the passenger side where my HID relay harness and OEM connection now resides. This side is easy since it is way more accessible than the battery side of engine compartment. I removed the original HID harness splitters from the OEM connector and removed the high beam halogen bulb from the housing. The 2 stroke bulbs twisted in and appear to be a pretty snug fit and hopefully a good seal inside the housing port. I didn't use any silicone grease on the bulb seals but Lou does recommend putting dielectric grease on all connector terminals to weatherproof. I made a careful polarity examination of the stock high beam connector vs. LED harness connector wires (black on harness plug connects to red/yellow on OEM plug). It is a critical step to get these harness to OEM connectors installed with the polarity correct to avoid problems. The HID shutter/LED bulb connectors to harness splitters are not similarly polarity sensitive and can be swapped but everything on my harness mated up with the correct polarity as assembled. I made all connections on the supplied harness and tried to route everything in an organized fashion and tucked out of the way of potential damage.
After sliding it in some flame retardant split wire loom, I routed the harness over to the driver's side of the engine bay running the bundle along the top of my radiator zip tying it to the OEM wire bundle and my HID relay harness already routed across there. I took time to change out my split rubber insulators on the A/C line brackets atop there with some universal style rubbers that I sourced from Amazon. They are a little taller than the damaged stock rubbers and allow for more room for the extra wiring to cross underneath without being pinched or smashing down on the wiring bundles. After removing the battery, old splitters and bulb, I followed the same procedure as the passenger's side except for making sure that the harness red wire connects to OEM high beam red/green wire when making connection to the stock light plug. I organized and secured everything and dropped the battery back into place to test the lights before securing everything.
The final step is to open the engine bay fuse box and remove the 20 amp right hand high beam fuse as it is no longer needed. I followed Jerry's advice and swapped the other side 20 amp high beam fuse with a 5 amp and made sure to have a few 7.5 amp spares just in case they were needed. The lights functioned perfectly in my LX when testing for lows/highs with the engine off and the DRLs fired right up when I cranked the engine. I shut it down and secured the battery then took time to zip tie the wire bundles as out of the way of harm as possible.
The fit and finish of the kit and the wiring is excellent and gives my LX an updated modern look as compared to the old yellow lighting. I love the output and color of the LEDs and now my high beams completely match the tone of my HIDs. Thanks to Lou and Jerry for putting in the work to make this upgrade a plug and play reality!!
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #120
TRS sells H7 LED's and the DRL runs through the HB.... it should work if your truck has the OEM DRL resistor....I can sell you our resistor and harness if and when you're ready.....if it doesn't work out.. I'll refund the funds as long as you cover shipping
