The FSM used to be available on here, but I just went to look for it so I could link it and is link is broken.
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I heard a ping and clatter/knocking on startup. like something fell into a cylinder. Thats when smoke started to roll through the manifold. Judging by the high EGT's and that the pump was cranked up just to make it run. My money is on a melted piston, or a piece broke off an injector or valve.The manifold is a 2 piece design and it looks like the smoke is coming from that union, could be that it's worn or damaged. That's quite a bit of smoke tho...
My money is on a melted piston, or a piece broke off an injector or valve.
I have the FSM, just having trouble finding the page that talks on fueling adjustment
The slapping noise is coming through the exhaust you cannot hear it in the engine bay. Just at the tail pipe. Its similar to a gas back fire sometimes.Melted pistons and bits of metal in diesel combustion chambers are nasty. I think it would be running really bad if that was the case.
Although the noise you heard is worrisome.
That loose manifold joint is probably the slapping noise you heard.
From memory it is at the end of the pump rebuild section.
1. I have brand new filters all around. I have done the clear line and have no air in the lines.If it's blowing black smoke at 22:1 and the engine has decent compression, either they are making up the afrs, or pump timing is way off, injector spray pattern is horrendous or the injector has the incorrect washers under it meaning it doesn't spray correctly into the bowl in the piston. I would diagnose with the cheapest stuff first -
1) make sure fuel and air filters are in decent condition as a start, don't think this is your problem but easy to eliminate. Quick visual for air leaks at this point would be a good idea too, can you replace fuel line from primer to IP with clear to see if it's full of air.
2) compression test, you'll need to remove the injectors for this on an FT so ensure you have the correct washers to replace and you eliminate this variable while you're at it.
3) check timing, it is my bet that this is stupidly retarded, giving high EGTs and black smoke because the fuel isn't being burnt properly, and in my experience this makes the engine doughy in the response department.
Something doesn't ring true here with what the shop is saying, but don't go chasing cracked pistons and other internal trauma yet, rule out things this shop touched first.
Laggy throttle is generally a sign of retarded timing however I did have a mate with a Nissan TD42 that was so advanced it was an absolute dog, but that was obscenely advanced, ie 1.3mm lift when spec was .75 or something like that. I think what was happening was that the piston coming up put the fire out again but no idea if that's possible, but it would have to be very advanced to make that happen. I'm sorry to say the TD42 in question broke conrods a few months after so hopefully your engine hasn't run long enough if it's so far advanced to cause damage.1. I have brand new filters all around. I have done the clear line and have no air in the lines.
2. Have yet to do my own compression test. Was told the shop performed one and each cylinder proved within spec. I need to get the equipment to perform this myself.
3. I have doubts that the timing is retarded because the gaps on the bolt holes of the pump are nearly maxed out with the pump rotated closer to the engine block which would make the pump advanced. I know I will need to confirm this with the service tool, but visually appears to be advanced.
I believe that the shop has lied about multiple things about this repair. I am worried to continue to try and run this engine because of what happend this morning on start up, a knocking noise happened for a about 3 seconds and then the smoke started to come out of the manifold. What I do not understand is why when I reduce the fueling with the fuel screw do I not get any throttle response? Turn the screw back in and I get throttle response but is laggy.
When I mean laggy throttle with the fuel screw its basically non existent when I turn the fueling down like in one of my previous videos earlier in the chat where you push the throttle and nothing happens. but once I turn the fuel screw back in I get throttle response.Laggy throttle is generally a sign of retarded timing however I did have a mate with a Nissan TD42 that was so advanced it was an absolute dog, but that was obscenely advanced, ie 1.3mm lift when spec was .75 or something like that. I think what was happening was that the piston coming up put the fire out again but no idea if that's possible, but it would have to be very advanced to make that happen. I'm sorry to say the TD42 in question broke conrods a few months after so hopefully your engine hasn't run long enough if it's so far advanced to cause damage.
Have you got any recourse on the shop?
I don't know that your truck is a lemon, unless it's always had these problems, I think the poor truck just needs a bit of competent work. I honestly struggle to understand why diesel places over there find the Toyota diesels so hard to get right but I also realise we're probably spoiled with access to the likes of Gturbo, ADS, Diesels Unlimited etc over here that make their living on tricked up diesels.When I mean laggy throttle with the fuel screw its basically non existent when I turn the fueling down like in one of my previous videos earlier in the chat where you push the throttle and nothing happens. but once I turn the fuel screw back in I get throttle response.
I am getting into contact with some lawyers one for a lemon law and the other for this shops work.
Well I bought the truck a year ago. After about 5k miles was when the truck started to exhibit fueling troubles w/ heavy haze and eye burning fumes. Once I elected to have the injectors and pump work done is when the problems got worse.I don't know that your truck is a lemon, unless it's always had these problems, I think the poor truck just needs a bit of competent work. I honestly struggle to understand why diesel places over there find the Toyota diesels so hard to get right but I also realise we're probably spoiled with access to the likes of Gturbo, ADS, Diesels Unlimited etc over here that make their living on tricked up diesels.
Hmm, OK. An old school diesel will never be virtually odour free like a new diesel with DPF, SCR and all that stuff, but it should be tolerable and visibly clean in the daytime and you'd expect to see a haze in the headlights of cars behind at night time.Well I bought the truck a year ago. After about 5k miles was when the truck started to exhibit fueling troubles w/ heavy haze and eye burning fumes. Once I elected to have the injectors and pump work done is when the problems got worse.
100% agree w/ that and that is why I know mine is pretty bad when the haze is visible in the daytime before I started this repair and is now worse after the repair. I have owned a couple previous diesels, Chevy 6.5, Ford 7.3, VW 1.9, they never had issues like this.Hmm, OK. An old school diesel will never be virtually odour free like a new diesel with DPF, SCR and all that stuff, but it should be tolerable and visibly clean in the daytime and you'd expect to see a haze in the headlights of cars behind at night time.
Yeah, and typically the first port of call for haze/smoke would be injectors, but you've tried that and seems that it's only created more dramas!100% agree w/ that and that is why I know mine is pretty bad when the haze is visible in the daytime before I started this repair and is now worse after the repair. I have owned a couple previous diesels, Chevy 6.5, Ford 7.3, VW 1.9, they never had issues like this.
I don't know that your truck is a lemon, unless it's always had these problems, I think the poor truck just needs a bit of competent work. I honestly struggle to understand why diesel places over there find the Toyota diesels so hard to get right but I also realise we're probably spoiled with access to the likes of Gturbo, ADS, Diesels Unlimited etc over here that make their living on tricked up diesels.