1HDT HDJ81 Misfire (4 Viewers)

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Alright so I have gone ahead and installed my Boost and EGT gauge and holy crap EGT's Blow through 1200F very fast under throttle.
Boost is set at 14psi
My timing was confirmed with a 1.34mm plunge stroke.

The truck has a weird shake with part throttle and normal driving. idling there is a noticeable lope.

Once you start to accelerate harder everything smoothes out but EGT rocket. as well it seems like there is a backfire through the exhaust under acceleration. apparently the AFR was fine..this was what the shop said..

"Test Air Fuel Ratio under Load. Results indicate an AFR to be approximately 21.5:1. Normal range for a diesel is 20:1 - 22:1."

On a cold start the cloud of grey white smoke is thick and bad. once warmed up it still smokes at a constant greyish black, sitting at a light is embarrasing and the haze left down the road is nauseating.

what do I need to do to tune all of this right where it needs to be?
 
Man, unless you have experience tuning these engines, which it doesn't sound like you do(no offense), I would recommend taking it to a well known reputable diesel cruiser shop used to working on these, it may require going to a neighboring state but at least you'll know its in good hands. @SNLC has his shop in Idaho, and @orangefj45 is in california, ones I know of, might be others closer to you. Your symptoms could be caused by a multitude of things, and it will take someone that knows them all to find the cause. That would be my advice.
 
grey smoke typically means your timing is off. Try advancing it 3 degrees.
 
Even if it's at 1.34?isn't that already advanced

Yes, out of spec. Never tried to go that far on a 1HDT but on a 1HZ you can’t go that far because the IP will hit the intake.

Cheers
 
Try .10 incriminates backing it off.

I kind of doubt your issues are all in timing.

Cheers
I agree and will be doing valves once tool shows up. I just hope nothing was ruined by the shope because of this, especially the shaking amd high EGT's
 
Based on the quality of work done by the shop, I would be checking timing and compression again as I doubt their competence in either quite frankly
 
@ubguessin, I have the correct IP timing tool that I used on my FT to get it timed right. It was WAY off when it came in from the UK.

Reading your thread, I wouldn't be bringing the vehicle back to any of those repair shops. I can recommend Okanagan Diesel and he rebuilt my IP awhile back and did a great job.

If you want to pay for shipping it flat rate, I'll send you the IP timing tool and the correct dial to actually verify your timing. You'll just need to send it back when you're done and don't let that lousy shop handle it. Having a friend help you makes it easier but you can do it yourself with very simple hand tools. The hard part of doing it yourself is watching the dial and rotating the engine.

If you replaced your injectors with OEM and you KNOW that the shims are correct you can likely cross those off the list of culprits. Watching your video, it looks overfueled and the hot EGT numbers support that. I can floor my FT on a flat like that and not get over 1,000 and there won't be any black smoke. I don't have an intercooler and it's tuned for 15psi of boost. The spool up and power is nearly immediate.

Although verifying the valve adjustment is a very good idea to ensure they are within spec, it's probably only a small part of what is going wrong here.
 
Yea this thing is set .10 over spec
Spec is 1.25 to 1.35mm so you are within the factory limits

3d2b4ea.jpg
 
@ubguessin, I have the correct IP timing tool that I used on my FT to get it timed right. It was WAY off when it came in from the UK.

Reading your thread, I wouldn't be bringing the vehicle back to any of those repair shops. I can recommend Okanagan Diesel and he rebuilt my IP awhile back and did a great job.

If you want to pay for shipping it flat rate, I'll send you the IP timing tool and the correct dial to actually verify your timing. You'll just need to send it back when you're done and don't let that lousy shop handle it. Having a friend help you makes it easier but you can do it yourself with very simple hand tools. The hard part of doing it yourself is watching the dial and rotating the engine.

If you replaced your injectors with OEM and you KNOW that the shims are correct you can likely cross those off the list of culprits. Watching your video, it looks overfueled and the hot EGT numbers support that. I can floor my FT on a flat like that and not get over 1,000 and there won't be any black smoke. I don't have an intercooler and it's tuned for 15psi of boost. The spool up and power is nearly immediate.

Although verifying the valve adjustment is a very good idea to ensure they are within spec, it's probably only a small part of what is going wrong here.
I appreciate the offer, thank you. I am going to buy the tool so that I can have it on hand.

I am so pissed. I gave them my pyrometer and boost gauge to install so they could tune it when all the new parts came in. The owner completely blew it off saying he did not need them to do the tuning. He has not a clue what the hell he is doing, or he really just wanted to **** up my vehicle.
 
I appreciate the offer, thank you. I am going to buy the tool so that I can have it on hand.

I am so pissed. I gave them my pyrometer and boost gauge to install so they could tune it when all the new parts came in. The owner completely blew it off saying he did not need them to do the tuning. He has not a clue what the hell he is doing, or he really just wanted to f*** up my vehicle.
Mechanics hate being told how to go their job, same as everyone in their respective trades. This guy is fos. In all due respect, these diesels were never offered in the states and in GENERAL it would seem like not many know what they are doing with them over there. That being said, I realise and appreciate the fact that there are some that do know their way around them over there. What you should do next time, in send any parts that need rebuilding to a quality shop in aus. The exchange rate is such that it's probably the cheapest option for you anyhow, and we are one of the biggest markets for diesel Landcruisers. Your vehicle still sounds like it has more issues than poor timing, but it's the best place to start.
 
Mechanics hate being told how to go their job, same as everyone in their respective trades. This guy is fos. In all due respect, these diesels were never offered in the states and in GENERAL it would seem like not many know what they are doing with them over there. That being said, I realise and appreciate the fact that there are some that do know their way around them over there. What you should do next time, in send any parts that need rebuilding to a quality shop in aus. The exchange rate is such that it's probably the cheapest option for you anyhow, and we are one of the biggest markets for diesel Landcruisers. Your vehicle still sounds like it has more issues than poor timing, but it's the best place to start.
What other issues do you believe it has? I know I need to turn the fuel down make sure valves are good, check timing.

I was aghast when I found out they have no "mechanic, parts, specialist connections" in aus
 
What other issues do you believe it has? I know I need to turn the fuel down make sure valves are good, check timing.

I was aghast when I found out they have no "mechanic, parts, specialist connections" in aus
I would check the timing and make sure it's in spec.

I highly doubt that timing it correctly is going to fix your "misfire". Should help with the smoke but without reading the thread thouroughly I'm willing to bet that it's a pump issue. Or check that your engine isn't too full of oil. Either that or you have an exhaust leak on the manifold (gasket broken and missing). FSM makes a big deal of having a clean air filter as well, but I doubt it's contributing to your issues here.
 
I would check the timing and make sure it's in spec.

I highly doubt that timing it correctly is going to fix your "misfire". Should help with the smoke but without reading the thread thouroughly I'm willing to bet that it's a pump issue. Or check that your engine isn't too full of oil. Either that or you have an exhaust leak on the manifold (gasket broken and missing). FSM makes a big deal of having a clean air filter as well, but I doubt it's contributing to your issues here.
I will do in the AM. I have been looking through the service manual but I cannot find the exact adjustment for fueling on this pump. do you have the page #? or a screen shot of the proper idle and fueling adjustment screws?
 
I will do in the AM. I have been looking through the service manual but I cannot find the exact adjustment for fueling on this pump. do you have the page #? or a screen shot of the proper idle and fueling adjustment screws?
Sorry I don't have the FSM for the 1hdt, 1hdft. Only the 1hdfte. someone here should have it.
 
Did I miss any comments above that you have popped the timing belt cover off and lined up the timing marks to confirm they are correct and not off a tooth?

hth's
gb
 
Mechanics hate being told how to go their job, same as everyone in their respective trades. This guy is fos. In all due respect, these diesels were never offered in the states and in GENERAL it would seem like not many know what they are doing with them over there. That being said, I realise and appreciate the fact that there are some that do know their way around them over there. What you should do next time, in send any parts that need rebuilding to a quality shop in aus. The exchange rate is such that it's probably the cheapest option for you anyhow, and we are one of the biggest markets for diesel Landcruisers. Your vehicle still sounds like it has more issues than poor timing, but it's the best place to start.

Even here in Australia, most general mechanics are clueless when it comes to tuning a diesel
 
I could hear something like a slapping noise. Maybe an exhaust leak. Were the valves checked?

Whats the mechanic saying now?

I'll say check for exhaust leak too. An exhaust leak could be described as a slapping sound at times.
Look for soot around the exhaust manifold joints and turbo to manifold joint
 
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