Rear axle bearing preload (1 Viewer)

[619TOY]

Well, I rebuilt my rear hubs yesterday. After having read as many threads on the subject as I could find, I jumped right in. Once I was upon the bearing preload step, I realized that I was still a little uninformed. Here is what I was able to figure out and what I did. If anything I did was incorrect, let me know. If this is as correct a method as is possible, I think it should be added to FAQ since I didn't find it there. Before I go through the steps I ultimately took, let me say that first, I tried to do it as closely to the FSM as I could. Here is what I ultimately chose to do:

1. First I tightened the nut to the specified torque (43 ft. lbs. ) IIRC
2. Spun the hub a few time with the tire mounted
3. Tightened again
4. Spun the hub again
5. Tightened again
6. Loosened the nut
7. Tightened until I felt friction
8. Grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and vigorously rocked it (I could feel slop)
9. Tightened it to the next indicator mark
10. Grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and vigorously rocked it (I could feel slop)
11. Tightened it to the next indicator mark
12. Grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and vigorously rocked it (I could not feel slop)
13. Installed the two locking screws with blue Loctite

I want to add that adjustment according to the FSM and the 10 lbs/sq in method both led to slop. I could see and feel the hub clunk up and down (probably in thousandths). Therefore I am definately at a little more than 10 ft. lbs., more than I have seen specified anywhere. Since the rear hub forces you to choose a given combination of holes, this seemed like the best solution.

Once you figure out how the rear hub nut works, finding out where you can stop and which screw holes to use falls right into place. You must stop the nut when it lines up with one of the indicator marks on the spindle. Then you merely put the lock screws in the two holes that are at 90 degrees to the indicators that are alligned. I wish that I had taken a pic to better explain but here is a drawing I made. Yeah, it's pretty pathetic. I don't know what's worse. The fact that I didn't take a pic, the fact that I just drew this up while sitting at my desk or the fact that I'm here at my desk at all considering it's it's about 75 and beautiful out. PLEASE somebody with some real skills, re-do my drawing so it can be posted in the FAQ section

 

[IdahoDoug]

Sounds reasonable.

DougM

 

[Beowulf]

I wish that I had taken a pic to better explain but here is a drawing I made. .... PLEASE somebody with some real skills, re-do my drawing so it can be posted in the FAQ section

619Toy,
There is an excellent photo of the rear hub with arrows and lines marking what lines up where. I have a hard copy printed from a 'Mud posting. I will see if I can find it for you. I used the photo Friday night when I was getting mine ready for the new gears.

Later.... Here ya go. FYI, this is Bambuseiro's pic and it is in the FAQ in Beno's rear axle thread with Rookie2

-B-

 

[IdahoDoug]

I wanted to add that with a used and seated bearing, you can expect that it will not loosen due to the wear in process. Also, it has been my observation that the 80s wheel bearings loosen when warmed to operating temperature which is the opposite of other vehicle bearings I've had over the years. So, I think you did the right thing in picking which of the positions to lock the bearing ring on.

Regards,

DougM

 

[619TOY]

619Toy,
There is an excellent photo of the rear hub with arrows and lines marking what lines up where. I have a hard copy printed from a 'Mud posting. I will see if I can find it for you. I used the photo Friday night when I was getting mine ready for the new gears.

Later.... Here ya go. FYI, this is Bambuseiro's pic and it is in the FAQ in Beno's rear axle thread with Rookie2

-B-

Ha, I remember that pic now. What can I say other than too much info for my small hard drive to retain

Thanks guys