Cruise Control OBD (1 Viewer)

[CJF]

Since no one ever seems to be able to find it:



A. Turn the ignition switch on.
B. Turn the control switch to SET/Coast position, and keep it there.
C.Push the main switch ON.
D.check that the indicator light "CRUISE" lights-up in the
combination meter.
E.Turn the SET/Coast switch off
F.Meet the conditions listed in the table below.
G. Read the diagnostic code on the cruise control indicator light.
.................................................. ................
#1 Turn the control switch to SET/Coast position
there should be two flashes and then a second break and then two
flashes, then break then two flashes etc. If you get the flashes your
SET/Coast circuit is normal.
#2 Turn the control switch to RES/ACC possition.
this time you get a pause and three flashes, repeated again and
again. if you get the three flashes RES/ACC circuit is ok.
#3 Each switch is turned on
a. Control switch to CANCEL.
b. Stop light switch, (step on brake)
c. parking brake switch. ( pull up parking brake)
d.Neutral start switch. ( put in neutral)
if when you test each of the 4 cancel switches you DO NOT get any
flashes then those switchs are normal.
THIS IS YOU, And now you have to leave the driveway.
#4 Two parts for speed sensor
A. Drive at 25mph or below. if there are NO flashes sensor is normal.
b. Drive at 25mph or over. you should get constant steady blinking.
if she blinks sensor is ok.

 

[jonheld]

Nice. Way to go Curtis.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Since no one ever seems to be able to find it:



A. Turn the ignition switch on.
B. Turn the control switch to SET/Coast position, and keep it there.
C.Push the main switch ON.
D.check that the indicator light "CRUISE" lights-up in the
combination meter.
E.Turn the SET/Coast switch off
F.Meet the conditions listed in the table below.
G. Read the diagnostic code on the cruise control indicator light.
.................................................. ................
#1 Turn the control switch to SET/Coast position
there should be two flashes and then a second break and then two
flashes, then break then two flashes etc. If you get the flashes your
SET/Coast circuit is normal.
#2 Turn the control switch to RES/ACC possition.
this time you get a pause and three flashes, repeated again and
again. if you get the three flashes RES/ACC circuit is ok.
#3 Each switch is turned on
a. Control switch to CANCEL.
b. Stop light switch, (step on brake)
c. parking brake switch. ( pull up parking brake)
d.Neutral start switch. ( put in neutral)
if when you test each of the 4 cancel switches you DO NOT get any
flashes then those switchs are normal.
THIS IS YOU, And now you have to leave the driveway.
#4 Two parts for speed sensor
A. Drive at 25mph or below. if there are NO flashes sensor is normal.
b. Drive at 25mph or over. you should get constant steady blinking.
if she blinks sensor is ok.

Curtis:

Can you help a dummy out? I performed #1 & #2 and they test out as performing correctly. I am not exactly tracking with your #3.

When you say "Each switch turned on", what exactly do you mean? Maybe the answer is right in front of my face, but it appears there are various ways to interpret your directions?

You say "turn the control switch to Set/ACC" - Mine would not be one you turn, rather you would move the lever in a downward direction to accomplish the Set/ACC function. Could it be you are talking about a set up that is not like a US based 80 in that there are actual switches versus the lever I have in my '97 LX that would simultaneous ativation of each switch i.e. "Each switched turned on"?

I need to perform the #3 step so please clear up my head on this!

Thanks!

Kirk

 

[CJF]

You say "turn the control switch to Set/ACC" - Mine would not be one you turn, rather you would move the lever in a downward direction to accomplish the Set/ACC function.

Hi Kirk,

First of all, those aren't my words; I just dug up that post from a long lost website.

Secondly, your interpretation is correct: Toggle the lever to the indicated position.

Cheers,

Curtis

 

[CaptainKirk]

Thanks Curtis. I have the manual and I am tryng to make sense out of it as well.

Best regards,

Kirk

 

[CJF]

Kirk,

What are your symptoms?

 

[CaptainKirk]

Kirk,

What are your symptoms?

I was driving it for a change last week and I was on cruise and tapped the brakes and the system disengaged as it should. When I attempted to "Resume", the green "Cruise" light started blinking in even blinking increments.

I tested your instructions but of course I cannot seem to figure out how to perform step #3. So if all else fails, open the manual, right?

I jumped E1 and TC in the DLC1 located on the fire wall to get the blinking code on the dash and what I get is DTC code 14 and the manual indicates that is an actuator mechanical malfunction.

I just came back in from removing the entire mechanical device located on my right front inner fender. I pulled the little motor they call the actuator and all it is is a DC motor with and extended armature that is a worm drive. The brushes are at an easy 75% remaining and the entire assemply is ckean and free of debris - looked brand new inside. I used tape to hold the brushes in a compressed position so I could slide the armature back in, and buttoned that back up after I pulled the tape out.

Then I flipped it over, pulled the flat cover off and everything is clean and pristeen in the case where the contacts are. Nothing looks broken.

I put the cover back on, pulled the fuse for more than 10 seconds as the manual called for to clear the codes and reset the ECM, put the truck back together hoping against hope that it was just a gemlin, and went out for a quick spin.

No dice. Still doing the same thing. Turn the cruise on, the green indicator illuminates, press set, and the even spaced blinking starts....no cruise engagement.

I was able to perform your cut and pasted step #1 and #2 and they tested out as good.

#3 has me puzzled how to perform it.

And unless you have some magic for me, I am nose deep in the manual again.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Since no one ever seems to be able to find it:



A. Turn the ignition switch on.
B. Turn the control switch to SET/Coast position, and keep it there.
C.Push the main switch ON.
D.check that the indicator light "CRUISE" lights-up in the
combination meter.
E.Turn the SET/Coast switch off
F.Meet the conditions listed in the table below.
G. Read the diagnostic code on the cruise control indicator light.
.................................................. ................
#1 Turn the control switch to SET/Coast position
there should be two flashes and then a second break and then two
flashes, then break then two flashes etc. If you get the flashes your
SET/Coast circuit is normal.
#2 Turn the control switch to RES/ACC possition.
this time you get a pause and three flashes, repeated again and
again. if you get the three flashes RES/ACC circuit is ok.
#3 Each switch is turned on
a. Control switch to CANCEL.
b. Stop light switch, (step on brake)
c. parking brake switch. ( pull up parking brake)
d.Neutral start switch. ( put in neutral)
if when you test each of the 4 cancel switches you DO NOT get any
flashes then those switchs are normal.
THIS IS YOU, And now you have to leave the driveway.
#4 Two parts for speed sensor
A. Drive at 25mph or below. if there are NO flashes sensor is normal.
b. Drive at 25mph or over. you should get constant steady blinking.
if she blinks sensor is ok.

Curtis:

Could #3 mean perform all of the following simultaneously?

 

[CJF]

I think #3 just means to (one at a time) test each way of canceling the CC. So, just try stepping on the brake, then pulling up on the parking brake, etc. In each case, you should get no cruise light.

Edit: Did you do the speed sensor test?

 

[CaptainKirk]

I think #3 just means to (one at a time) test each way of canceling the CC. So, just try stepping on the brake, then pulling up on the parking brake, etc. In each case, you should get no cruise light.

Edit: Did you do the speed sensor test?[/QUOTE]

#3 Each switch is turned on
a. Control switch to CANCEL.
b. Stop light switch, (step on brake)
c. parking brake switch. ( pull up parking brake)
d.Neutral start switch. ( put in neutral)
if when you test each of the 4 cancel switches you DO NOT get any
flashes then those switchs are normal.
THIS IS YOU, And now you have to leave the driveway.
#4 Two parts for speed sensor
A. Drive at 25mph or below. if there are NO flashes sensor is normal.
b. Drive at 25mph or over. you should get constant steady blinking.
if she blinks sensor is ok.

Since my last post, I've performed Step #3 with the ignition key on, not running in several configurations with the same result. I performed a., b., c., d., independently with the Cancel, Set, and Acc activated independently, along with doing a. - d., all simultaneously with each switch independently on depressed/activated/pushed. All net the same result - nothing, no flashes. The Cruise light remains illuminated and does not start blinking.

Edit: Did you do the speed sensor test?

I've attempted the speed test two ways. Background - once I've tried to activate above 25mph, the Cruise converts from illuminated to blinking in even increments.

Method 1 - after I start the truck, I turn on the Cruise and the light is illumnated. I start driving and under 25mph, I set the cruise, and nothing happens as it shouldn't and the light simply remains illuminated - it does not start blinking. I proceed to about 40mph, hit set again, then it starts blinking.

Method 2 - After performing Method 1, I slow to under 25, the cruise light is still blinking, I set the cruise (attempt to anyway) and the light continues to blink - no change. This seems reasonable since the safety feature of the ecm is to disable the system when it detects an issue so the truck doesn't run away with itself.

I did this because the speed test in Step #3 doesn't actually indicate what the status is supposed to be of the blinking light when performing the test, so I did it both ways - with it not blinking after a fresh start, and with it blinking.

On another note, I talked to a friend of mine that is a Toyota Master Mechanic of about 30 years about this. He is the specialist Toyota pays to travel the country when there is a gremlin on one of their repairs that the local guys simply can't fix, so I would simply suggest he is at the minimum competent, or so I would hope. His response is that he could not recall a toyota cruise system ever failing. He said he might have forgotten one, but he doesn't think so. I told him to chalk it up to the fact that he is working in the first tier auto market and that 80 owners are at best the second tier and now fall into the terciary tier. We don't typically come rolling into a Lexus dealer for repairs on our '97 450 with mileage ranging from 150K to 500K! He said point taken, but it does suggest that there isn't a "most likely" component of interest we should be targeting or that there isn't a known bulletin on the matter.


I also told him that the DTFC is a code 14 so that points to the "Actuator Mechanical Malfunction" description which inlcude the actuator as I already described having examined, the wiring harness (which looks great), the connector (which alsoi looks new), and the cruise ECU. He is going to get back to me, but I am not holding my breath that he will have a magic bullet.

So at the moment, I think I am stuck. I'm hoping someone can chime in with some experience based tips.

Kirk

 

[CJF]

His response is that he could not recall a toyota cruise system ever failing. He said he might have forgotten one, but he doesn't think so. I told him to chalk it up to the fact that he is working in the first tier auto market and that 80 owners are at best the second tier and now fall into the terciary tier. We don't typically come rolling into a Lexus dealer for repairs on our '97 450 with mileage ranging from 150K to 500K! He said point taken, but it does suggest that there isn't a "most likely" component of interest we should be targeting or that there isn't a known bulletin on the matter.

Most common failure on a 91-92 is an oil-fouled speed sensor.

Most common failure on a 93-97 is the actuator motor. In this case, many folks have found at least temporary relief by simply manually cycling the actuator arm several times, or by cleaning the unit (as you've done).

That's all I got.

 

[Dbarr4lsu]

Kirk, keep me posted on any of your findings because I am having the same issues with my 97 LC. I have run all the tests and they have all checked out OK. I have not done the jumper test yet, but from what you have described, it sounds as though I would get the same code as you. Likewise I will let you know if I figure something out...it has really frustrated the piss out of me.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Kirk, keep me posted on any of your findings because I am having the same issues with my 97 LC. I have run all the tests and they have all checked out OK. I have not done the jumper test yet, but from what you have described, it sounds as though I would get the same code as you. Likewise I will let you know if I figure something out...it has really frustrated the **** out of me.

I will definitely let you know. Have you taken your actuator assy apart? I removed mine and benched it and I did find that the grease on the stator/worm drive of the little electrical motor was hardened. Replaced and reinstalled and it did not solve it. More to come.......

Kirk

 

[CJF]

Since my last post, I've performed Step #3 with the ignition key on, not running in several configurations with the same result. I performed a., b., c., d., independently with the Cancel, Set, and Acc activated independently, along with doing a. - d., all simultaneously with each switch independently on depressed/activated/pushed. All net the same result - nothing, no flashes. The Cruise light remains illuminated and does not start blinking.

Kirk,

We may be onto something: The cruise light should NOT be illuminated; I just went out to my rig to verify.

To review: To initiate the test, you put the lever to the set/coast position and push the button. Holding the lever in that position should give you a two flash sequence. BUT: As soon as you release the lever, the light should go off, and NOT remain on. No flashes, no nothing until you either move the lever up/down or start the vehicle and go for a drive.

I think you may actually be failing step #3. You need to figure out why the light is on when it should be off.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Kirk,

We may be onto something: The cruise light should NOT be illuminated; I just went out to my rig to verify.

To review: To initiate the test, you put the lever to the set/coast position and push the button. Holding the lever in that position should give you a two flash sequence. BUT: As soon as you release the lever, the light should go off, and NOT remain on. No flashes, no nothing until you either move the lever up/down or start the vehicle and go for a drive.

I think you may actually be failing step #3. You need to figure out why the light is on when it should be off.

Going upstairs to try that right now.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Kirk,

We may be onto something: The cruise light should NOT be illuminated; I just went out to my rig to verify.

To review: To initiate the test, you put the lever to the set/coast position and push the button. Holding the lever in that position should give you a two flash sequence. BUT: As soon as you release the lever, the light should go off, and NOT remain on. No flashes, no nothing until you either move the lever up/down or start the vehicle and go for a drive.

I think you may actually be failing step #3. You need to figure out why the light is on when it should be off.

Did the deed. Ignition key in on position, engine not started; pulled lever down to Set THEN pushed the On button, double flashed and once I released, all flashing stopped. Turned key off, then back on, engine not started; pulled lever up to ACC position, THEN pushed the On button, triple flashes, and once I released, all flashing stopped. Turned key off, then back on, engine not started;pulled the lever toward me to Cancel THEN pushed the On, no flashing, just a solid light. Now what does this tell us?

 

[Dbarr4lsu]

I will definitely let you know. Have you taken your actuator assy apart? I removed mine and benched it and I did find that the grease on the stator/worm drive of the little electrical motor was hardened. Replaced and reinstalled and it did not solve it. More to come.......

Kirk

I have not taken mine apart...looking to get a used one to see if that was/is the issue. Might try swapping out the cruise control module as well.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Update:

I bench tested the actuator assy by applying 12 volts to the DC motor. I've dissassembled the entire unit and reassembled and found nothing apparent that says it is mechanically malfunctioning. That leaves the llittle electonic thingy's that I am not smart enough to test...not yet anyway. The grease on the cltuch is not in bad shape, nothing I could see is wrong physically. I did find one very interesting anomaly and if I am correct, I have successfully isolated the actuator as the culprit.

If I recall my high school shop correctly, a DC motor can travel in both directions depending on polarity. SO with the flat cover off so I could watch the action of the stator, I applied 12 volts to pins 6 & 7 of the unit (again on the bench, the actuator, not the chassis wiring harness) and then rotate the arm so that the "at rest" contacts the arm is resting against will connect. The motor starts up and runs quietly, gears are turning, etc., etc. When I rotate the arm over to it's max position, it comes into contact the the opposite set of contacts that stay closed until the arm opens them and as I would think is correct, the motor quits running as the now open contacts break the closed circuit. SO, my deduction is both sets of contacts apparently have to be closed to enable power to the motor.

Here's the funny business - when I reverse the pos & neg leads to reverse the direction of the motor, again, I have to rotate the arm to allow the "at rest" contacts to close to start up the motor. BUT, when I rotate the arm to max position, the pitch of the motor changes very noticably and constinues to run instead of shutting off.

This seems wrong to me given all I have done is changed the polarity.

Curtis, you might try this as well and you can do it on the vehicle if you disconnect the chassis harness, and simply unbolt the actuator harness bracket allowing you to swing the male side of the plug harness up so you can clip leads onto pins 6 & 7.

Man, if anyone could tell me that I am at least focusing on the right component, it would be great.

 

[CJF]

Ignition key in on position, engine not started; pulled lever down to Set THEN pushed the On button, double flashed and once I released, all flashing stopped. Turned key off, then back on

Once you initiate the test with the lever in the set/coast postion, you're NOT supposed to do anything else with the key. Just proceed through the rest of the steps.

 

[Dbarr4lsu]

I was driving it for a change last week and I was on cruise and tapped the brakes and the system disengaged as it should. When I attempted to "Resume", the green "Cruise" light started blinking in even blinking increments.

I tested your instructions but of course I cannot seem to figure out how to perform step #3. So if all else fails, open the manual, right?

I jumped E1 and TC in the DLC1 located on the fire wall to get the blinking code on the dash and what I get is DTC code 14 and the manual indicates that is an actuator mechanical malfunction.

I just came back in from removing the entire mechanical device located on my right front inner fender. I pulled the little motor they call the actuator and all it is is a DC motor with and extended armature that is a worm drive. The brushes are at an easy 75% remaining and the entire assemply is ckean and free of debris - looked brand new inside. I used tape to hold the brushes in a compressed position so I could slide the armature back in, and buttoned that back up after I pulled the tape out.

Then I flipped it over, pulled the flat cover off and everything is clean and pristeen in the case where the contacts are. Nothing looks broken.

I put the cover back on, pulled the fuse for more than 10 seconds as the manual called for to clear the codes and reset the ECM, put the truck back together hoping against hope that it was just a gemlin, and went out for a quick spin.

No dice. Still doing the same thing. Turn the cruise on, the green indicator illuminates, press set, and the even spaced blinking starts....no cruise engagement.

I was able to perform your cut and pasted step #1 and #2 and they tested out as good.

#3 has me puzzled how to perform it.

And unless you have some magic for me, I am nose deep in the manual again.

Does pulling the fuses reset the ECM or is there something else that needs to be done to do this? I'm hoping that I found my problem. Red wire with green stripe going to the actuator was severed...anyone know what this wire is? Going to put a butt connector on it and try to clear the faults and try again.