Anyone hve a write-up for installing new window runs/channels? (1 Viewer)

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Been fighting with slow windows in cold/wet weather for the past few years and my plan is to replace the rubber in all 4 doors before Winter :meh:

Thing is, I have to start with the driver door first because it lost a chunk of rubber last week which blows air directly into my ear at highway speeds and it's driving me nuts :bang:

Before I go tearing apart the door, I'd like to see a quick walk through to familiarize myself with what's required :hmm:

Anyone have a write-up?
 
I haven't done the fronts, so I don't know if they're any different, but I just recently did one of the rear runners. It was pretty easy.

First, you simply pull out the old runner. You don't even have to pull the door panel off to do that. Second, you'll want to lube up the new runner--you could use either liquid soap or silicone lube. I used the latter. It would probably make it easier if you also lubed up the metal channel that holds the runner; that's where it gets most difficult. Lastly, you simply slide/push the new runner down into the metal channels and you're done. If it starts to stick in the channel to where you can't push it any further, just remove, relube, and try again.

I ended up pulling the door panel off because it makes getting the new channel in easier for the last couple of inches. But if you don't have much difficulty getting the new one started, you may not need to. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't pull the panel...I'd just make sure the new runner and channels were well lubed up.
 
i need to do this as well. I do recall seeing a write up with pictures on here.. ill see if i can find it, unless someone beats me to it.
 
Rattling glass...

Both of my front windows (driver and passenger) have a terrible rattle when they are partially open. Will new runners fit a lot tighter and solve this obnoxious condition?!
 
Scamper: If you lubed the metal channel that the rubber sits in or the backside of the rubber could that maybe allow the rubber channel to move when the window went up and down? I also have the rattling.
 
Both of my front windows (driver and passenger) have a terrible rattle when they are partially open. Will new runners fit a lot tighter and solve this obnoxious condition?!

x3 curious if this will stop the rattle
 
Snake Eater..let me know how it goes. I have a chunk of plastic missing from the runner on my DS rear door and need to replace that before it starts snowing (again).

Where did you pick up the runners and how much did they cost?
 
Scamper: If you lubed the metal channel that the rubber sits in or the backside of the rubber could that maybe allow the rubber channel to move when the window went up and down? I also have the rattling.

Even after lubing it up, it's still tight. I've not noticed it moving any. Once you fit the sides in, you pop the top edge of the runner in which pretty much keeps things in place.

I didn't have rattling, so can't address that question. I think my problem was a cruiser-eating car wash :mad:
 
Replaced my PS rear door glass channel rubber last Spring, and it went in quite easily with no need for lube or otherwise. Lube may help (I would think that electrical conduit lube may work), but was not necessary in my case. The most involved part was pulling the interior panel (five minutes).

:cheers:

Steve
 
Both of my front windows (driver and passenger) have a terrible rattle when they are partially open. Will new runners fit a lot tighter and solve this obnoxious condition?!

I had the same problem and it turned out when I replaced the door belt molding, the pieces that run along the bottom of the window opening, that the rattle went away. If you're pulling the door panel to do this, it would be a good time to replace the inner belt molding as well.
 
I swapped the 97 front runners that were in good shape over to the 93 and installed new ones in the 97. Just pull the panels and you can reach inside the door and help pull/guide the new runs in and assist with the other hand from the top. Its super easy and I wouldn't use lube, it only made a mess. After I learned the reach inside the door trick, I installed the new ones dry without issue or greasy residue to clean up.

The 93 had rattling before and after and the 97 had always been tight. I'm thinking the rattle is from something else besides the runs, perhaps the mechanical linkage because swapping good runs from a non-rattling 80 didnt fix my 93.

Hth
 
matt60/80 said:
I had the same problem and it turned out when I replaced the door belt molding, the pieces that run along the bottom of the window opening, that the rattle went away. If you're pulling the door panel to do this, it would be a good time to replace the inner belt molding as well.

Yes, I agree with this. I did not replace this and I think the inner and possibly the outer bottom belt moldings along with some loose linkages are the sources of my rattle problem in the 93.
 
Anyone got an image of the door belt moldings, I'm not sure which parts we're talking about??
 
Kernal, They are talking about the inner and outer "scrapers" that run along the top of the door skin (outer) and door panel (inner).
 
OK thanks, I didn't realize those were replaceable. Good to know.
 
/\ That would be them. The inner can easily be replaced by pulling the interior door panel. The outer one is more difficult as the rear view mirror has to be removed.
 
Hey guys... I just purchased my first FJ80 and I'm having the sticking issue with the front windows and the rear windows. I've been looking for a place to purchase the new window channels, but am not finding them. Where's the best place to get them? Thanks!
 
Hey guys... I just purchased my first FJ80 and I'm having the sticking issue with the front windows and the rear windows. I've been looking for a place to purchase the new window channels, but am not finding them. Where's the best place to get them? Thanks!

Cruiser Dan and Beno at American Toyota in Albuquerque. They give a "mud" discount and will send you the correct part(s).

Use the search for their contact info & welcome to Mud. Your wallet will never feel the same!
 
I need to replace mine, but did find that spraying silicone dry lube in the gaps where the window slides in made the windows go up and down great. $3 can of silicone dry lube vs. buying new runners
 
Just today I replaced the DS window channel rubber, its what the window glass rest in, at the very bottom of the glass.....while I was at it, with the door card off....I pulled the window channel runs, which was very easy while the window was out.....dropped them in the bathtub and cleaned them all out....especially the slot the window runs in. The hot water made them very pliable and that much easier to reinstall in the window channels. dropped the glass back in, bolted back onto to the scissor mechanism that raises and lowers the window....tested it before putting the door card back on.....and it worked great. Nice and smooth, no binding. Oh, and I did lightly lubricate the window channel rubber with some silicone.....just wetted down some paper towel and then ran it through the slot in the rubber. So long answer....but either cleaning or replacing window channel runs is pretty easy.
 

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