front spindle damage (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 12, 2008
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3,350
Location
West MI near GVSU
Website
www.mcdesignsoffroad.com
I was doing the brakes on my wife's "new" '95 and during the road test of the rear brakes, the front left started locking up. I anticipated rebuilding the calipers and including 100 pads. The left hub was sloppy. The bearings were loose with metal pieces in the grease. With the hub/rotor assy off, the bottom of the spindle where the outboard bearing should sit is worn probably 1/32". Maybe not that much, but enough to see and feel. Can I reuse it or replace it immediately? The big flat washer under the spindle nuts has a deep gouge in the backside.

I obviously need new bearings and hardware, but what about the spindle? I haven't told my wife yet. It was her birthday present.

Are the bearings common to mini trucks, 4runners, 60s or 40s?
 
A picture would really help, so we can be sure what you're trying to describe.

I don't think the wheel bearings are shared by any other platform, but I'm no expert. Others here will know.
 
Are they the same as mini truck and four runner?

I have some pictures of the spindle, but I can't figure out how to make them smaller on my mac. I'll try to upload them.

I have a machinist friend who could rebuild the spindle, but just needs the bearings before he starts. He's a plastic injection mold maker.
 
here are a few photos
DSC_0100.jpg
DSC_0102.jpg
DSC_0103.jpg
 
i have marlins heavy duty seals in my 81 pickup, axle and trans. excellent fit and no leaks with 3K miles. will get them for the 80 series when the time comes.
 
I was just in your shoes; the USDS spindle was wiped out in the bearing area and the USPS was fair, I used a good punch to dimple the area so the inner race could no longer turn on one and a fellow "MUDder sent me his spindles that he had replaced during a axle upgrade to lockers- one was also marginal and I "repaired" the same way. I'll go new spindles next time, but could not spring for them now- I'm sure they can be had from Dan or Onur for a discount, but plan on $500 for both- I did not price new from them but threads I searched had around that cost quoted. I used Marlin seals- exterior sealing bead of something on the body to tube interface and maybe 30% bigger sealing area, I think maybe a double lip vs. single for oem?
 
I had very similar issues, and could never get that bearing the right tightness. I ultimately replaced the spindle and it solved the problem. Pictures are in this thread on our local board what do you think of my spindle? - Rising Sun Member Forums

I vote replace the spindle... those roller bearings are cool anyways.. :cool:
 
Both bearings spun or just the outer? Your machinist friend could build up (weld) and turn that spindle down to the original diameters, making it good as new. Its done on heavy trucks and machinery quite often. Both journals would probably 2-3 hours to do. That's what I would be doing if it were my problem, unless a new/used spindle was under $200
 
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My friend can do it. He wouldn't say how much, probably farm barter thing. We both hobby farm. I've seen massive press type shafts-4-6" dia that had jagged shearing. He was able to fix them to better than new with a mirror finish.

I think both spun, but it looks like the outer did the most damage.

Thanks for the inputs. I did request a price from Slee also.
 
Regarding the Marlin seals, there has been a little debate on whether or not they're a good idea for a full time 4x4 rigs. I started a thread on this and rec'd some feedbacks on this topic two months ago. It seemed that the oem seals are the way to go for full time and marlin seals are good for all part time 4x4s.
 
Can't comment on the Marlin seals, but I recently ran a wheel bearing the same as you having done a Birfield and seal job about 1000 miles before using OEM seals.

The Factory manual torque would not stop the bearings spinning on the spindle so I nipped them up a bit. Obviously this was a bit much as the bearing seized and proceeded to break up. Due to the damage on the spindle (similar damage on the outer but I had no damage to the inner or seal race) I had the same debate as you and went for a new spindle and new new bearings then used factory torque settings and no problem since (nearly 2000 miles)

You must do something with that spindle, it will simply fail again if you ignore it.

Your decision, but the effort involving building up, turning then grinding would cost more than the price of a new one from 'Yota over here. I paid just over £200 ($350ish) for the spindle assembly.
 
If you can not afford the part currently, then use a pin punch to raise the metal some. Put a small dot on the inner and out side of the area where it spun, repeat about 1/2 inch apart(around the spindle). I do not have pictures, But I have been doing this for a couple of decades as a temp fix(even big rigs spindles) until you can afford the new part. Junk the claw washer or thrust washer, I never use one with a groove, the groove can create problems when setting up the pre load.
As for the wheel bearing, yes they are the same bearings as the older front Mini truck and four runner solid axle stuff(85 and earlier).
spindles here would set you back around 280 with dicounts at different dealers and Dan.

Search would of yielded answers to many of your questions.
 
Repairing the spindle surface is doable and depending on the procedure used, maybe more durable than stock, but for most isn't cost effective. You have a buddy, willing to do it cost effective to you, go for it.

The wheel bearings need to be properly maintained, I check for preload every time a tire is jacked up. This is a prime example of what happens when they are run without proper preload, loose. I prefer tighter than stock, mine are torqued to 20ft/lb, but also run larger than stock (37") tires.

I have Marlin seals that I haven't used, not sold on the design, prefer the stock design for the '80 application. I have had great results/life from the stock type wipers, so see little/no need to "upgrade"?
 

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