Airbag Reset Proceedure (3 Viewers)

[Tentsontop]

Here's the FSM diagnostic proceedure courtesy of Raventai.

2. Using diagnosis check wire:
CHECK DTC
(a) Output the DTC.
(1) Turn the ignition switch to ACC or ON position and
wait approx. 20 seconds.
(2) Using SST, connect terminals Tc and E1 of the
DLC1.
SST 09843–18020
NOTICE:
Never make a mistake with the terminal connection position
as this will cause a malfunction.
(b) Read the DTC.
Read the 2–digit DTC as indicated by the number of times
the SRS warning light blinks. As an example, the blinking
patterns, normal, 11 and 31 are as shown on the illustration.

Normal code indication
The light will blink 2 times per second.

– DIAGNOSTICS SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM


Malfunction code indication
The first blinking output indicates the first digit
of a 2–digit DTC. After a 1.5 second pause,
the second blinking output will indicate the
second digit.


If there are 2 or more codes, there will be a 2.5 second pause
between each codes. After al the codes have been output,
there will be a 4.0 second pause and they will all be repeated.
HINT:

In the event of a number of trouble codes, indication will
start from the smallest numbered code.

If it does not output a DTC or outputs a DTC without terminal
connection, proceed to the Tc terminal circuit inspection
on page DI–267.

1996 LEXUS LX450 (RM482U)

Does anyone have the FSM reset proceedure? I've been working on the LX and disconnected the battery for too long or one too many times. There's nothing wrong with my airbag system. There's tons of threads where people mention they used a paperclip and a couple of wires, but no mention of what they did with them. I really don't want to buy another FSM and I'm not downloading it on a dial-up connection.

Thanks!

 

[Beowulf]

I really don't want to buy another FSM and I'm not downloading it on a dial-up connection.

You might be pleasantly surprised. Nate has done a significant amount of work and simplified the DL. It took me maybe 30 minutes or less on broadband. I would guess at most 1-2 hrs on dial-up. His procedure is designed so you can start it, take your wife out to dinner, and come back and it is done.

It is $10 for the TIS subscription and about 20 minutes to get everything set up before you press the "load-n-go" button. No excuses not to have a FSM even for those with dial-up.
-B-

 

[jfz80]

sorry i cant help you, but since you got everones attention ive been wondering if this is the service that is recommended by Toyota every ten years as indicated on the back of the sunvisor. Are they just going to read for malfunctions, or are there additional serviceable parts???

hijack off

 

[Tentsontop]

I assume it is, but that's just what I gleaned from a few old threads. Mine is on as a result of disconnecting the battery. I have no idea what they do, but someone said Toyota charged them $89 to reset theirs.

Beowulf,

Thanks. I may give it a try, but we get free internet through the college and it's slower than slow is s-l-o-w. I can easily see it being 3hrs or more. I'm surprised noone has just posted how to do it on here, or at least I have yet to find it.

BTW - I reset the CEL again after checking everything once more. I drove for 30 miles today and no return thus far. The wife will be putting a few more town miles on it this Eve while I make a run south. I've got my fingers crossed that it stays off. I've started prepping the EGR nut for removal if it does come back.



Chad

 

[Tentsontop]

CEL is back on today. I'll get it evenutally though.

Here's the Airbag reset proceedure as per CharlieS from about 2 1/2 years ago.

CharlieS:
Hi All. Quick update.

I was able to read the SRS DTC codes, here's the procedure:

1) Turn ignition to on or acc for 20 seconds
2) Using SST (paperclip) jump terminals Tc and E1 of the diagnostic connector (DLC1)
3) Read code(s) by counting flashes of abs light (while ignoring all the other flashing lights)

Codes are gathered by counting flashes, 1.5 seconds between digits, 4 seconds between individual codes. If you miss it, keep waiting, it will cycle again.

Mine was a 54 (Open in P squib circuit) which corresponds to the passenger airbag being disconnected.

I reset the codes and all is well.

Incidentally, the reset Darwood posted works. However it doesn't work if the wires you are using do not have contiuity ( ). I checked my "reset" SST with my multimeter and found that I had a break in my wires. Fixed it and was able to reset it.

Briefly, for the archive:

1) Get two separate longish wires (another SST!)
2) At the DTC put one wire in the Tc terminal and one in the AB terminal
3) Turn the ignition to on or acc for 6 seconds (leave it in on or acc)
4) Go to the wires in the DTC and do the following
a) Tc to ground for 1 second, remove
b) AB to ground for 1 second, remove
c) Tc to ground for 1 second, remove
d) AB to ground for 1 second, remove
e) Tc to ground for several seconds (5 according to the FSM)
5) ABS light should flash rapidly and reset

That reset the codes.

Note, as Darwood says, you need to switch the wires quicky (.2 seconds?) but that is easy to do.

By the time I got to the drivers side my ABS light was off.

Also, make sure your SST (wires) have continuity or this won't work.

The dealer wanted $35 just to read the codes. Then they couldn't
find the "special connector" anywhere. I should've loaned them my paperclip

Glad I tried again. Thanks everyone!!!!

Good luck.

Charlie

 

[vuzuki]

I am having an issue with the airbag light on my truck, but there Is No dlc1 in the engine compartment just the obdII.. does anyone know the equivalent check? it's a 2004 tacoma.
I don't think it's due to a fault of srs

 

[Grench]

I am having an issue with the airbag light on my truck, but there Is No dlc1 in the engine compartment just the obdII.. does anyone know the equivalent check? it's a 2004 tacoma.
I don't think it's due to a fault of srs

This is 80 series Landcruiser tech - you might want to try the Toyota pickup truck forum instead?
95+ Gen Toyota Trucks

 

[CO_Hunter]

Old thread but thanks for the .2 second tip. I had done all the testing and reset procedures per FSM and the light remained on. I forgot what the code/error was as I did all that about a year ago. Got it reset on the first try doing the sequence faster than 1 second.

 

[97 FZJ80]

We should put this in the 80 series Archives.

 

[Kernal]

Airbag SRS light; turning it off

Bringing this back to confirm the above method works to turn off the airbag/SRS light. Had my steering wheel and airbag off to replace the wheel and the light came on, then stayed on after reconnecting everything. I stuffed two ~10" long pieces of a 16G wire into AB and Tc of the DTC and for a ground I used the firewall bolt for the AC coolant pipe after first sanding the top of the bolt lightly. The first few attempts did not turn off the light until I got the process down by holding the wires with my hands close to the bolt and alternating the wires very rapidly with no pause in-between. FWIW.

 

[LINUS]

I'll 2nd Kernal on that -

I know exactly what (not why, but shouldn't be done anyhow) tripped my SRS light - I had been charging the bulldozer & the charger was still set on "24v" when I hit the charger clips to my battery in the 80 (truly dumb, but hey - we all have a few in the closet, right?)

I had just finished a HG replace (late @ night, trying to start test to see if I was really done) & saw immediately I was on 24v on the charger, so <10 seconds of it at ~60 amps - I did the FSM procedure & amazingly no further damage -- I really expected I'd tossed my fusible links, but I guess God liked me that day.

 

[WarWagon]

Trying like hell to get code 31 to disappear by doing exactly what everyone says but the light flashes twice and still stays on! I'm doing the sequence faster than 1 sec too.

 

[Kernal]

Took me maybe half a dozen tries before I got the sequence down. The key parts seemed to be having a good ground (I sanded the bolt head I used to ensure a good connection) and then extremely rapid switching of wires when touching the ground with no pause in-between (even though the directions say wait one second). IIRC I left the key in the ON position.

From above:

1) Get two separate longish wires (another SST!)
2) At the DTC put one wire in the Tc terminal and one in the AB terminal
3) Turn the ignition to on or acc for 6 seconds (leave it in on or acc)
4) Go to the wires in the DTC and do the following
a) Tc to ground for 1 second, remove
b) AB to ground for 1 second, remove
c) Tc to ground for 1 second, remove
d) AB to ground for 1 second, remove
e) Tc to ground for several seconds (5 according to the FSM)
5) ABS light should flash rapidly and reset

Here's an interesting post from earlier this year:
Redneck SRS Code Clearing - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/redneck-srs-code-clearing.810139/#post-9250729

 

[WarWagon]

Spent an hour with my mechanic helping me with this and still couldn't get it to go.....tried using the battery as a ground.

Very frustrating. Guess I'll try to use the link you provided as some guidance to a better ground.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[LINUS]

Spent an hour with my mechanic helping me with this and still couldn't get it to go.....tried using the battery as a ground.

Very frustrating. Guess I'll try to use the link you provided as some guidance to a better ground.

Thanks for the advice!

Maybe the fault logic is seeing that whatever it is that trips your light is still in a state that needs repair/connection, so that is why it's staying on - just tossing that out there, you may need to trace the wires & see if you have a loose connector either in the center tunnel where the crash trigger is, at the DS airbag in the wheel, or over above the glovebox going to the PS airbag (esp this one if you installed a foreign market grab bar prior to tripping light.) Just A Thought (JAT)

 

[GW Nugget]

Need help.
The airbag light has been on since a battery replacment. I have been trying this for about a hour now.
I can not get continuity to AB & Tc at the same time. Tc will conduct when key is on but, AB will only conduct when key is off.
What am I doing wrong?
KEY ON

KEY OFF

 

[Perfectmax]

So, I'm gonna add some magic to this thread. This wasn't working for me and then I decided to get creative. I got a copper speaker wire, screwed it into the negative terminal on the battery and then brought it over to the AB & Tc (as my ground). Worked like a charm.

And man..., do i love this forum and you guys for all of these creative solutions. LC life is great with this resource!

 

[GW Nugget]

Need help.
The airbag light has been on since a battery replacment. I have been trying this for about a hour now.
I can not get continuity to AB & Tc at the same time. Tc will conduct when key is on but, AB will only conduct when key is off.
What am I doing wrong?
KEY ON
View attachment 1072218 KEY OFF
View attachment 1072219

I want to reply to my own post here. My problem was the test light. I put this in another airbag thread.
I had battery problems months ago & ever since I had the air bag light on. I have been playing with it for a while with the paper clip AB to Tc thing not getting anywhere very fast, but today I got it! My problem was the test light I was using... DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT, IT WON'T WORK! I changed to a clamped piece of wire & got it on the 2nd try. Hope this helps.

 

[landtank]

I had replaced the dash pad on my truck and forgot to reconnect the passenger side air bag which set off the SRS light when I first started the truck.

Good procedure but I used a different setup and was successful on the first try.

I cut two strands of wire long enough to go from the DTC port to the negative battery post. Labeled each end of the wire either TC or AB

Plug them into their designated pin on the DTC and once the ignition was turned on I had one wire in each hand and touched them to the negative post in sequence counting off Mississippis.

hope this helps

 

[heckler]

I cut two strands of wire long enough to go from the DTC port to the negative battery post. Labeled each end of the wire either TC or AB

Plug them into their designated pin on the DTC and once the ignition was turned on I had one wire in each hand and touched them to the negative post in sequence counting off Mississippis.

hope this helps

This is what I did and it worked as well.