130 (or 150) Extra Amps on a 2F (2 Viewers)

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Godwin

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Over a year ago I rebuilt the 2F in my FJ60 and at the time I had planned on installing a second alternator in place of the smog pump. I first tried to mount a Delco CS-144 (https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/112706-cs-144-install-2f.html), and later tried a CS-130 with essentially the same results. Since the alternator will be needed to drive the water pump I wanted an installation that was simple, reliable, and if possible could be uninstalled and reverted back to stock easily.

A couple of threads in the 80 series forum (https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/173200-130-150-amp-alternator-upgrade.html and https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/206807-upgrading-stock-alternator-130-150-amp.html) lead me to look at the Toyota 130 (150) amp alternator. 2003-2007 Sequoias have a 130 or 150 amp alternator, PN’s 27060-0F040 and 27060-0F050 respectively. Some V8 Tundras have a 130 amp alternator. I went with a 2003 Tundra V8 130 amp alternator, PN 27060-50300, and hit a small snag with it (explained here https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/196712-130-amp-tundra-alternator.html).

The alternator is slightly smaller than the smog pump. The upper and lower mounts are in nearly identical positions, but the spacing on the alternator is slightly smaller. For the install I used the stock 2F smog pump bracketry. The slot in the upper mount had to be slightly enlarged to accommodate the slightly closer spacing between the upper and lower alternator mounts. A dremel easily took care of this.
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The upper smog pump mount has a long sleeve and the tensioning bolt had to be spaced back ca. 25 mm so that it could be used to tighten the alternator. A spacer was cut from some flat stock for this.

Inner diameter of both the upper and lower mounts on the alternator is 10.5 mm. Diameter of the smog pump mounting bolt is 7.8 mm. I used sections of ½” copper tubing as sleeves in the smog pump mounts to fill some of the gap.

Three copper sleeves were cut:
1) 54.5 mm long, to fit in the lower alternator mount;
2) 47.5 mm long with a large washer JB welded on. This holds the alternator in place;
3) A 35 mm long sleeve to fill the upper mount.
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The alternators have a pulley for a serpentine belt, but a V groove pulley can be swapped on (PN 27411-66040). This is a double groove pulley and ½ of the front pulley will have to be cut off.

Width of the alternator pulley at the outer edge is 9 mm and depth is 11.5, width on the smog pump pulley is 15.5 mm and depth is 15.5 mm. Stock belt is 16 mm wide. I went to Carquest with a cut down belt as a reference and requested a belt of the length I brought in but slightly smaller in width. I was looking for a compromise in width between the pulleys, but at the time I did not have the width measurements. What I came back with was a Carquest belt B40 manufactured by Gates. It is 43” long x 21/32” wide, or 1085 mm long and 16 mm wide. This belt is the same width as stock. I mounted it anyway and so far there’s been no problem.

To plug in wires this connector is needed (PN 90980-11964), this will only be the plastic shell and wires have to be added. I was able to scavenge some terminals from damaged harnesses from the local Toyota dealership, but if wiring terminals need to be purchased this is the PN 82998-12440. Three will be needed.
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I had tried to scavenge terminals from an FJ60 harness by using the smallest terminals of the harness. These were too large to fit the connector shell. From the later model harnesses at the Toyota dealership I pulled two sizes which I’ll call “larger” and “smaller”. For reference I’ll give the dimensions of the terminals as w(idth) x h(eight) x l(enght) in mm.

FJ60 4.01 x 2.68 x 5.16
Larger 3.08 x 2.76x 9.02
Smaller 2.57 x 2.51 x 7.05

While the smaller terminals had a tighter fit on the alternator pins once in the connector they did not have a depth I was comfortable with, so I swapped those out for the larger terminals. I think these will provide a greater contact area because they are 2 mm longer.

In the photo the FJ60 terminal is on the left, the “larger” late model center, and the “smaller” on the right.
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It’s been mounted and briefly tested and the belt alignment is good and there is no interference with the belt running the 2F alternator and power steering pump. This setup allows a reversion to the smog pump if needed by simply swapping out the parts.

I still need to install the second battery tray, battery, move the overflow bottle and wire everything up.
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Wired up

I got around to hooking up the wires this weekend. First step was to relocate the overflow bottle. An unused threaded hole on the passenger side fender worked out well.

A second stainless battery tray was installed on the driver's side where I dropped in a Yellowtop group 31 Optima. The winch was hooked to this battery.

It was a bit of a squeeze but I was able to route the intake hose around to the fender and plug it into one of the unused holes.

The actual wiring of the alternator was straightforward. The IG wire went to a source which has 12 v when the ignition is on. The S, sensing, wire was connected at the + battery terminal. I had hoped that the L, idiot light, terminal could be used to run a voltmeter but this did not work.

For the battery ground I used some 1/0 cable I had on hand and ran a ground to the frame and from the driver's side motor mount to the frame. A 4 gauge cable runs from the B post on the alternator to the + battery terminal.
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I like it.

Almost as much as i like that fancy shifter in the last picture.

One of these days . . .
 
what is the purpose of the second alternator? to charge the second battery?

The stock alt only puts out ~55 amps. Esp w/a winch, it's not enough. The second alt is a way to add amps. It also adds reliability if one alt fails.
 
Bumping this thread, as I'm working on getting a second alt in place. Curious how everything has worked out.

2008 that long ago? I pulled this alternator a couple of years ago and reinstalled a gutted smog pump. This setup could work well with a few small changes and with the bumping of thread I think I will work on reinstalling the alternator in the near future.

1. Don't use copper tubing as sleeves to fill the gap between the long bolt and the alternator. Copper is too soft and over time wore down leading to looseness and misalignment of the alternator. This will lead to the belt being thrown. Steel tubing would be better than copper.

2. The belt I used was not an automotive belt with a good V shape, I think it was instead for lawn equipment but it was all the parts store could dig out at the time. I expect that a better belt is available but may take some research to find one of the correct size.
 
Thanks for your detailed writeup and update of this.

OK - so can we swap in a 150a amp in place of the OEM FJ62 alternator? I'm tired of 11.6 volts at idle with the headlights and fan on. I'd like to keep my factory emission setup.
 
@SteveH this has some good info on adding a larger alt to an 80 series (not sure if they are referring to 1fZ or 3FE). Upgrade the wire to 2/4 gauge from the alt to the positive Battery post (add fuse or circuit breaker) helps in stabilizing voltage to the battery. It helped on my 2F.
 
that's the 3FE fj80 alt.
 
Thanks - I already added a 8 ga. wire from the alt-to-batt. on my FJ62, and I cannot see any difference. I was hoping to put a much larger alternator on there - I'll have to do some junkyard digging and see what I can come up with.
 
the fj62 alt is supposed to make 13.6 volts at idle, anything less, and I'd suspect the windings.
 

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