Stupid simple brakes question (2 Viewers)

[phoenix1055]

I'm almost embarrassed to ask..

The brakes on my 62 are feeling squishy... and they feel pretty low..

Maybe I have air in the line was my first thought.

I figure the first thing to do is to bleed the brakes and see where I am at.

Never even done it in my life.

What is the procedure? I have not much of a clue... but have some basic tools.

Is there a link someone can point me to ? Or explain how?

This one's got to be easy for you guys.

 

[2mbb]

The procedure is in the factory service manual in the Brakes section (at least for the 60 series). In it's most simple form the procedure takes two people. One person pumps up and keeps pressure on the brake pedal and the other person loosens and re-tightens each brake bleeder screw. It's important that the bleeder screw be re-tightened before the brake operator lifts his foot to pump the brakes again, otherwise you will suck air into the brake lines. This part takes good communication between the two pepole. The guy inthe car can say "Pumping" or "holding" and the guy at the wheel can say "open" or "closed". You repeat this at each wheel until you get clean fluid and no air coming out. Remember to keep the master cylinder reservoir full of new brake fluid. You will use a rubber tube and a jar to catch the fluid that comes out of the bleeders. Start with the Rear drivers side (for LHD vehicle), second is the Rear Passenger side, third is the Front Drivers side, fourth is the Front passenger side (longest to shortest hydraulic path). You only have to loosen each bleeder 1/2 to 3/4 turn, just enough to lift it off it's seat.

You can buy a one-man bleeder tool at most auto parts stores, which is essentially a check valve and a couple of pieces of rubber tube. This will prevent air from being sucked into the bleeder and one person then can loosen the bleeder, then pump the brakes several times, then tighten the bleeder. There are also specail bleeder screws with check valves in them that do the same thing (Russel Speed Bleeders, for example). Other devices are available that will allow you to pressure bleed your brakes.

When you're done, be sure to check for leaks, and top off the master cylinder reservoir. Test the brakes to make sure they're working before you go down the steepest hill in town at full speed....

Good luck, have fun, be safe.

 

[Dynosoar]

First thing you should do is check the front pads and rear shoes. I bet that your pads are getting low. You should have more material on the pad than the thickness of the metal it's attached to. It is amazing what a new set of pads could do for pedal hight and feel.

Dynosoar

 

[Texx]

If you've noticed no leaking, you probably just need to adjust your back brakes. Jack one side in the air, (use a jackstand for safety.) Find the adjustment porthole, it'll probably have a rubber plug in it, on the back side of the brake backing plate, rectangular, about 3/4" long x 1/4"high. Get a couple of screwdrivers (flat) one short, one long, stick in the hole till you feel the adjustment wheel. It should only turn one way, and make a clicking noise. You want to turn it 3-4 clicks at a time, and then turn the wheel. What you want is a constant rubbing sound from the brake shoes without locking the wheel. Repeat other side. You'll now have a whole lot more pedal, and alot more braking power. If you're noticing brake fluid leakage, you need to solve that problem before bleeding. To bleed, pick up a "one man bleeder" at the parts store, will cost 5 or six bucks, follow the directions. Bleed the furthest brake from the master cylinder first , and continue on until the closest.

 

[TremorX]

First thing you should do is check the front pads and rear shoes. I bet that your pads are getting low. You should have more material on the pad than the thickness of the metal it's attached to. It is amazing what a new set of pads could do for pedal hight and feel.

Dynosoar

And if you get pads replaced, it's a Good Idea to get your rotors turned or (if out of spec) replaced. Makes the new pads seat better.

 

[phoenix1055]

It appears I haven't any fluid leak...

I'll try the adjustment on the back brakes first and see how they feel... then go from there on the bleeding..

Do you bleed all 4?

 

[KLF]

Yes, you should bleed all 4, and don't forget to also bleed the proportioning valve, it's the odd looking thing just inboard of the muffler. Follow the rear brake line towards the front of the truck, you'll find it. The bleeder is in an odd location, it points right at the muffler.

Bleed at least a quart of fluid thru the whole system, so you're sure you got all the old fluid bled out, or at least all that you can without pulling the calipers and cylinders out and thoroughly cleaning them out. Most people don't realize that brake fluid flushing is a normal maintenance item. I try to do mine at least every 2 years.

 

[kadie]

In case you are bleeding the brake system, do not forget to run the engine, otherwise you have no vacuum and no brake booster. Having the booster assistance will help you to put more pressure in the brake lines, improving the bleeding process.

 

[Tapage]

Maybe I start cheking in my brake booster and master cilinder for leaks .. the squishi means booster air or loosing vaccum ..