Basically, since the article ran in the Mar / April issue of trails I can post up about how I put a 62 axle under the front of my 55. It is the same process for 40 series guys so this is why I thought I'd post up in this section of the forum..
The purpose of the 60 axle is it has beefier components and it is about 2.75" wider, about perfect for most trucks with bigger tires and or lift. Seems to work well for both SUA and SOA trucks but is much easier to install in a SOA truck IMO. If I was sprung under, I would just do wheel spacers I think... But it handles / works much better than spacers IMO (which I have also run)...
In the rear, it is no big deal to put 60 axles under, simply weld on spring perches to the correct width, a hair narrower because 60's have a wider frame in the rear. No major mods needed.
FJ62's have 4.10, fine splined gears, and 60's have 3.73s. 3.73s are great for highway but are very fast. I installed a FJ62 axle which has some small advantages over the FJ60 axle in addition to the gearing...
In the front it is much more complicated because, when Toyota extended the width of axles for the new 60 series, they did it by adding on one side only, the long side. This, in effect, moves the pumkin farther to the passenger side when putting under a 40/55. You will notice the spring perch is already in the side of the pumpkin quite a bit SOA or SUA, so there is little room to work with to make it even narrower. But that said it has been done. It is ugly but I suppose it could work...
Option 1: Notch the axle housing to put the spring perch into it. You have to cut into the housing, it still leaves you no u bolt options so you have to perminently weld u bolts to your housing (bad idea IMO) and is ugly usually...
Option 2: Build "up" the perch on both sides. Adds about 1-2" of lift SOA, or takes away 1-2" of lift SUA. It is sort of like having blocks on a lifted rig. Works but the height difference is too noticable IMO for this to be a practical solution, makes axle wrap easier, and requires use of wrap bars IMO. That said I've seen proffitt's cruiser do it nicely and cleanly. Is probably the easiest/best outcome for minimal work...
Option 3: the hardest: widen your spring hangers... Best option IMO. Also makes handling a little better and more stable because springs are wider with relatively little loss of articulation... So this is what this writeup focuses on...
The purpose of the 60 axle is it has beefier components and it is about 2.75" wider, about perfect for most trucks with bigger tires and or lift. Seems to work well for both SUA and SOA trucks but is much easier to install in a SOA truck IMO. If I was sprung under, I would just do wheel spacers I think... But it handles / works much better than spacers IMO (which I have also run)...
In the rear, it is no big deal to put 60 axles under, simply weld on spring perches to the correct width, a hair narrower because 60's have a wider frame in the rear. No major mods needed.
FJ62's have 4.10, fine splined gears, and 60's have 3.73s. 3.73s are great for highway but are very fast. I installed a FJ62 axle which has some small advantages over the FJ60 axle in addition to the gearing...
In the front it is much more complicated because, when Toyota extended the width of axles for the new 60 series, they did it by adding on one side only, the long side. This, in effect, moves the pumkin farther to the passenger side when putting under a 40/55. You will notice the spring perch is already in the side of the pumpkin quite a bit SOA or SUA, so there is little room to work with to make it even narrower. But that said it has been done. It is ugly but I suppose it could work...
Option 1: Notch the axle housing to put the spring perch into it. You have to cut into the housing, it still leaves you no u bolt options so you have to perminently weld u bolts to your housing (bad idea IMO) and is ugly usually...
Option 2: Build "up" the perch on both sides. Adds about 1-2" of lift SOA, or takes away 1-2" of lift SUA. It is sort of like having blocks on a lifted rig. Works but the height difference is too noticable IMO for this to be a practical solution, makes axle wrap easier, and requires use of wrap bars IMO. That said I've seen proffitt's cruiser do it nicely and cleanly. Is probably the easiest/best outcome for minimal work...
Option 3: the hardest: widen your spring hangers... Best option IMO. Also makes handling a little better and more stable because springs are wider with relatively little loss of articulation... So this is what this writeup focuses on...
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