As most of you probably know from my recent threads the cruiser is going back together and getting it running is the current goal.
I've been searching, reading and pleading for help from you lately and thanks to mud I think I understand the procedure.
Lots of good advice on here but some of it is kind of sprinkled around in various threads.
I thought I would try to compile it all here so other noobies like me could get it without picking from several posts. I took pictures along the way since photos were harder to find during searching.
If any corrections need be made please chime in so inaccurate info isn't propogated.
First order is finding Top dead center of cylinder 1 (TDC). There is a small "pointer" in the window of the bell housing allowing you to see the flywheel. There is a line and a small BB. The line is TDC. The BB is 7 degrees before top dead center (BTDC).
The line
The BB
There are a couple of ways to be sure the piston is at TDC. You can remove the spark plug of cylinder 1 and place your finger over the hole and feel pressure building as you turn the crank. The pressure building up indicates the piston is coming up, eventually reaching TDC. You should see the line approaching the pointer in the window. Align the pointer and line after piston comes up and you should be at TDC. You can also check the rocker arms and push rods. Both valve springs should be extended and you can feel a slight play in the arms and pushrods. If you have the flywheel line and pointer matched and slight play in the rocker arms for cylinder 1 you are at TDC.
Now to put the dizzy in. You will need to align several parts here. The end of the dizzy shaft is shaped like a flat blade screwdriver and it interfaces with the oil pump. This is critical as not seating it properly will prevent the pump from circulating oil.
The dizzy body has a slotted bolt hole that allows it to be rotated several degrees. This is how the timing is fine tuned. That slot lines up with the bolt hole in the engine block. The rotor and cap must be lined up so the #1 position is ready to fire. Don't forget the oil pump! Line up #1 on the dizzy cap with cylinder #4. The rotor must also line up with #1 on the cap. You may need to place the rotor so it is pointing between cylinder 3 and 4 before you lower the dizzy. This is because the rotor will turn a few degrees towards #4 as it meshes with the gear that drives it (in the engine block).
Turn the oil pump slot so it will align with the end of the dizzy as the dizzy is lowered into place.
Here is roughly where you want the oil pump slot. Turn it with a long flat blade screwdriver to get it into position if needed.
Here is the dizzy lowered into position. Note that the rotor is pointed towards cylinder #4 and when the cap is placed back on, the #1 spark plug wire on the dizzy cap will be directly over the rotor.
The important part: the dizzy must seat completely down. If the end of the shaft is not engaged in the oil pump slot you will have an approx 1/4" gap between the dizzy body and engine block.
Here it is fully seated...
and from the bottom...
Snug the bolt that holds the dizzy in place, allowing for you to turn the dizzy with your hand. You should now be able to start the engine and fine tune the timing using a timing light.
I've been searching, reading and pleading for help from you lately and thanks to mud I think I understand the procedure.
Lots of good advice on here but some of it is kind of sprinkled around in various threads.
I thought I would try to compile it all here so other noobies like me could get it without picking from several posts. I took pictures along the way since photos were harder to find during searching.
If any corrections need be made please chime in so inaccurate info isn't propogated.
First order is finding Top dead center of cylinder 1 (TDC). There is a small "pointer" in the window of the bell housing allowing you to see the flywheel. There is a line and a small BB. The line is TDC. The BB is 7 degrees before top dead center (BTDC).
The line
The BB
There are a couple of ways to be sure the piston is at TDC. You can remove the spark plug of cylinder 1 and place your finger over the hole and feel pressure building as you turn the crank. The pressure building up indicates the piston is coming up, eventually reaching TDC. You should see the line approaching the pointer in the window. Align the pointer and line after piston comes up and you should be at TDC. You can also check the rocker arms and push rods. Both valve springs should be extended and you can feel a slight play in the arms and pushrods. If you have the flywheel line and pointer matched and slight play in the rocker arms for cylinder 1 you are at TDC.
Now to put the dizzy in. You will need to align several parts here. The end of the dizzy shaft is shaped like a flat blade screwdriver and it interfaces with the oil pump. This is critical as not seating it properly will prevent the pump from circulating oil.
The dizzy body has a slotted bolt hole that allows it to be rotated several degrees. This is how the timing is fine tuned. That slot lines up with the bolt hole in the engine block. The rotor and cap must be lined up so the #1 position is ready to fire. Don't forget the oil pump! Line up #1 on the dizzy cap with cylinder #4. The rotor must also line up with #1 on the cap. You may need to place the rotor so it is pointing between cylinder 3 and 4 before you lower the dizzy. This is because the rotor will turn a few degrees towards #4 as it meshes with the gear that drives it (in the engine block).
Turn the oil pump slot so it will align with the end of the dizzy as the dizzy is lowered into place.
Here is roughly where you want the oil pump slot. Turn it with a long flat blade screwdriver to get it into position if needed.
Here is the dizzy lowered into position. Note that the rotor is pointed towards cylinder #4 and when the cap is placed back on, the #1 spark plug wire on the dizzy cap will be directly over the rotor.
The important part: the dizzy must seat completely down. If the end of the shaft is not engaged in the oil pump slot you will have an approx 1/4" gap between the dizzy body and engine block.
Here it is fully seated...
and from the bottom...
Snug the bolt that holds the dizzy in place, allowing for you to turn the dizzy with your hand. You should now be able to start the engine and fine tune the timing using a timing light.
